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Ohmman's Airstream Adventures

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If Airstream owners were to remove the AC and instead put in a mini split . thus making the roof more aerodynamic as well as making the AC silent to use. I think that might help. Also as you increase the length of the trailer such that 3X the width of 8' is reached don't they get a better CD/
I would love to pull the AC off my roof but not easy to find a good mini-split for our trailers. I've been wondering what underbelly unit Safari Condo is offering on their A2124 but they've been covid-closed. Looked at several compact marine units but they require sea water to cool the heat exchanger. Any ideas here would be welcomed!
 
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I would love to pull the AC off my roof but not easy to find a good mini-split for our trailers. I've been wondering what underbelly unit Safari Condo is offering on their A2124 but they've been covid-closed. Looked at several compact marine units but they require sea water to cool the heat exchanger. Any ideas here would be welcomed!
There is more information on the Safari Condo in this thread.
 
If Airstream owners were to remove the AC and instead put in a mini split . thus making the roof more aerodynamic as well as making the AC silent to use. I think that might help. Also as you increase the length of the trailer such that 3X the width of 8' is reached don't they get a better CD/
And just where would you mount the compressor for the mini split?
 
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People have tended to mount the mini split compressor where the twin propane tanks on the front of the trailer would normally be. I considered buying a Already converted SilverStreak up in Washington State that already had the conversion done. She said it works wonderfully and is EXTREMELY quiet. It certainly is nice when other people share their successful experiences instead of just failures. The issue for me was it is a bit too long. Its a wonderful restoration though.
 
Hmm, still thinking about getting a CT tri later but changed mind for trailer. Leaning more towards the taxa tiger moth with a roof top tent. Anyone have any experience pulling with an x? Just sold my wife’s three, was going to replace with a y but decided to go for another x (non plaid). Around 1300 lbs dry. 7 ft tall slanted up at end. Still around 40 percent loss of range?
 
Hmm, still thinking about getting a CT tri later but changed mind for trailer. Leaning more towards the taxa tiger moth with a roof top tent. Anyone have any experience pulling with an x? Just sold my wife’s three, was going to replace with a y but decided to go for another x (non plaid). Around 1300 lbs dry. 7 ft tall slanted up at end. Still around 40 percent loss of range?
At least 40, depending on your speed. The Taxa is a great trailer, but it is not particularly aerodynamic. Which affects range more than weight. Have you looked at a T@b, or something with more of a smooth shape?
 
At least 40, depending on your speed. The Taxa is a great trailer, but it is not particularly aerodynamic. Which affects range more than weight. Have you looked at a T@b, or something with more of a smooth shape?
Darn, I guess I should. The superficial and design oriented part of me really leans towards taxa. Just wish these other companies could design in a slightly cleaner way.
 
Which is more important? Range or design?
Design, as in functionality, is pretty important. Design as style, less so. It really depends on how much of a range hit one gets with the desired camper compared to a more aerodynamic one. Aerodynamics matter a lot when towing long stretches without chargers, or on long hauling days where the last thing you want to do is stop a fourth time. When charging is closer together or camping is relatively local, functionality starts to matter quite a bit more.

As an example, I have a front-mounted bike rack on my Airstream that holds the bikes right over the propane tanks. They make a noticeable difference in consumption and probably cut my range by about 10-20 miles at highway speeds. However, mounting the bikes there also keeps them out of the camper allowing us to use it for stops on the road. It keeps dirt out of the camper on the way home, etc., so I tend to use that rack anyway most of the time. In my case, though, I have the flexibility of deciding to put them inside if there's a long haul ahead and I'm worried about range.

There's a balance between aerodynamics, functionality, cost, and style that is pretty personal to each buyer. And I'd say that with my 90D, aerodynamics were significantly more important than they are with my X LR++, though they still probably top the list for me personally.
 
Design, as in functionality, is pretty important. Design as style, less so. It really depends on how much of a range hit one gets with the desired camper compared to a more aerodynamic one. Aerodynamics matter a lot when towing long stretches without chargers, or on long hauling days where the last thing you want to do is stop a fourth time. When charging is closer together or camping is relatively local, functionality starts to matter quite a bit more.

As an example, I have a front-mounted bike rack on my Airstream that holds the bikes right over the propane tanks. They make a noticeable difference in consumption and probably cut my range by about 10-20 miles at highway speeds. However, mounting the bikes there also keeps them out of the camper allowing us to use it for stops on the road. It keeps dirt out of the camper on the way home, etc., so I tend to use that rack anyway most of the time. In my case, though, I have the flexibility of deciding to put them inside if there's a long haul ahead and I'm worried about range.

There's a balance between aerodynamics, functionality, cost, and style that is pretty personal to each buyer. And I'd say that with my 90D, aerodynamics were significantly more important than they are with my X LR++, though they still probably top the list for me personally.

Exactly. When I say design not just the exterior and interior look, but also functional design as well.

I think the taxa will work for us, with a rooftop tent added we might see a 50 percent loss in range… but should be useable with the new model x. Plus if we plan on doing CT tri will be less relevant at that point.

Thanks for the input!
 
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I suppose this is as good a place as any to make this note. On the return from our October Utah trip, we had developed severe front end shudder. It persisted even without the trailer (though not as intense) and eventually seemed to settle into a less obvious but easily reproducible range. On subsequent towing trips, I've started to tow with my suspension set to Low in an attempt to stave off more warping/vibration, and my observation is that it has worked.

There are a few drawbacks to doing this. First, clearance is always a concern when approaching campsites. Second, lowering the X exposes slightly more of the Airstream, increasing the effective frontal area a touch. So there may be some aerodynamic disadvantage, measurable or not. And finally, since I use weight distribution, moving suspension changes the calibration of the weight distribution friction/torsion bars and has to be considered.

This past week, I had Tesla Service replace the half-shafts in the X which fixed the problem. My plan is to tow only on Low, despite Tesla's guidance to tow on Standard. Anything I can do to keep the shudder from reappearing..
 
I suppose this is as good a place as any to make this note. On the return from our October Utah trip, we had developed severe front end shudder. It persisted even without the trailer (though not as intense) and eventually seemed to settle into a less obvious but easily reproducible range. On subsequent towing trips, I've started to tow with my suspension set to Low in an attempt to stave off more warping/vibration, and my observation is that it has worked.

There are a few drawbacks to doing this. First, clearance is always a concern when approaching campsites. Second, lowering the X exposes slightly more of the Airstream, increasing the effective frontal area a touch. So there may be some aerodynamic disadvantage, measurable or not. And finally, since I use weight distribution, moving suspension changes the calibration of the weight distribution friction/torsion bars and has to be considered.

This past week, I had Tesla Service replace the half-shafts in the X which fixed the problem. My plan is to tow only on Low, despite Tesla's guidance to tow on Standard. Anything I can do to keep the shudder from reappearing..
One warning with towing in low. It will accelerate rear tire wear.

Low induces a camber in the rear wheels. IIRC it wore out the inner edges of the tires, exposing the steel radial bands.