So I was going to make a funny post about changing the oil in a model 3 since I just did the wife's ICE SUV assuming you didn't change the oil, but apparently there are oil filters. Do we have to change the oil? I'm assuming you can't change the filter without changing the oil and I was under the impression that these cars were sealed and you never had to change any fluids but maybe I"m mistaken?
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Oil Change
- Thread starter robl45
- Start date
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
I find gas stations a bit off-putting now. I had to fill my daughters car with gas and it just felt weird. Gas stations are one thing that I do not miss. Actually, there is nothing, so-far, that I miss about my old ICE car.
Even though we still have an ICE vehicle (my wifes X3), she has had that vehicle almost 2 years now and has 5100 miles on it, and she is the one who fills it up once a month or so. I havent been to a gas station since december of 2018, when I got my model 3.
I was having a discussion the other day with someone at work who was asking me " you have had your car 2 years now, still like it?" I told them "yes, more than I did when I bought it, in fact, and one thing that gets overlooked is how freeing it is to never have to plan to put fuel in my car".
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
Yes, the gearboxes have oil (ATF-9) that presumably should be replaced at some point. I don't trust "lifetime" fluids.
There are instructions on how to do it in the service manual.
There are instructions on how to do it in the service manual.
You gotta give the converts time.
I replaced my gas mower, leaf blower and line trimmer with electric models, but the wife says I have to wait for the electric pressure washer, as an electric replacement for the pressure washer we have would need to be on a 220v/20a circuit. Kinda pricey.
It gets expensive to save the planet.... just gotta give people a chance to spread the cost out over time.
I think in an early version of the Model 3's owner manual, there was a recommended interval for changing the oil and filters, which has subsequently been removed. I think (but not sure) that the published interval was 50k miles. I'm going to change the oil and replace the filters at that point, just cause I also don't believe in "lifetime fluids."
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
When the time comes for me I'm sure there will be a Youtube video.
Drain
SPECIAL TOOLS
KIT, DRIVE UNIT OIL DRAIN, MODEL 3 (1134264-00-A)
KIT, DRIVE UNIT OIL FILL, MODEL 3 (1139126-00-A)
KIT, DU DIPSTICK, MODEL 3 (1446276-00-B)
SWITCHBOX, OIL PUMP, MODEL 3 (1131264-00-A)
JUMP START, XP-10 (1129348-00-A )
Skt, Oil Filter, 63.5mm X 14 (1130484-00-A)
1 Remove the mid aero shield panel. See
2 Position an oil drain underneath the rear drive unit.
3 Disconnect the electrical harness from the oil pump connector.
4 Use the oil filter socket to remove the oil filter from the rear drive unit.
Note: Allow the oil to drain.
5 Hand tighten the drive unit oil drain adapter to the oil filter mount point.
Note: Do not use any tools to tighten the drain adapter.
6 Connect the fluid evacuator hose to the oil drain adapter.
7 Use the XP-10 jump pack and oil pump switchbox to connect a 12V power supply to the oil pump.
8 Press and hold the power button to activate the oil pump, and then release the button when gearbox fluid is no longer pumped out.
9 Wait 60 seconds for the gearbox fluid to settle in the oil pump area.
10 Press and hold the power button again to activate the pump, and then release the button when gearbox fluid is no longer pumped out.
11 Disconnect the XP-10 jump pack and oil pump switchbox from the oil pump.
12 Disconnect the fluid evacuator hose from the oil drain adapter.
13 Remove the oil adapter from the rear drive unit.
14 Apply a light coat of ATF-9 fluid to the gasket of a new rear drive unit oil filter, and then install the oil filter on the rear drive unit.
Torque 3 Nm + 135 deg
Refill
1 Remove the fill plug.
2 Set the oil fill tool into the fill port and open the valve.
3 Fill the rear drive unit with 2.75 liters of ATF-9 fluid.
4 Close the valve and remove the filler from the rear drive unit.
5 Install the single tube extractor to the fill port. Thread the nut into the rear drive unit fill port and align the hose fitting straight downwards.
6 Attach a Mitivac hose line to the extractor.
7 Verify that the valve is closed, and then attach a shop air supply line to the Mitivac.
8 Connect the XP-10 jump pack and oil pump switchbox to the oil pump.
9 Press and hold the power button to activate the oil pump, and then run the oil pump for 1 minute.
10 Wait 1 minute for the gearbox fluid to settle, and then set the Mitivac lever to the ON position to draw vacuum.
11 Once air is visible in the extraction hose, turn the Mitivac lever to the OFF position.
12 Remove the shop air supply hose from the Mitivac, and then remove the Mitivac hose line from the extractor.
13 Remove the single tube extractor from the fill port.
14 Install the dipstick special tool into the fill port.
15 Press and hold the power button to activate the oil pump. Run the oil pump for 1 minute.
16 Wait 1 minute for the gearbox fluid to settle.
17 Pull out the dipstick and verify that the gearbox fluid is between the two marks. Make fluid level adjustments, if necessary.
18 Install the fill plug into the rear drive unit.
Torque 15 Nm
19 Remove the oil drain container from underneath the drive unit.
20 Disconnect the XP-10 jump pack and oil pump switchbox from the oil pump.
21 Connect the electrical harness to the oil pump connector.
22 Install the mid aero shield panel. See Panel - Aero Shield - Mid (Remove and Replace).
23 Lower the vehicle.
medphys3
Member
I read somewhere that it was a 100,000 mile replacement since it's just gear lube.
medphys3
Member
UncertainTimes
Active Member
I decided to go EV after stepping on someone else’s spit during a FREAKING RESPIRATORY SPREAD VIRUS PANDEMIC for the second time at a gas station.
For me, "how I do it" will be to schedule a SC appointment for it (throwing money at the issue)... lol. I dont enjoy in the slightest working on cars, but I also dont believe in "lifetime" fluid so am planning on doing this around 50k miles or so.. .50-60k.
because if you need a powerful blower, there are zero electric options that put out the volume and speed of combustion systems.
Indeed, electric blowers just don’t have the oomph yet. Also, I’d need about 5 batteries to do my lawn (usually takes me about 3.5 hours with a Husqvarna 570BTS, and I have to do that probably 5 or 6 times each autumn to keep the leaves from killing the lawn).
"Saving the planet" by investing in new, electrical devices?You gotta give the converts time.
I replaced my gas mower, leaf blower and line trimmer with electric models, but the wife says I have to wait for the electric pressure washer, as an electric replacement for the pressure washer we have would need to be on a 220v/20a circuit. Kinda pricey.
It gets expensive to save the planet.... just gotta give people a chance to spread the cost out over time.
Buy a scythe, donate a polio shot, grow your own potatoes, eat less, don't wash your car so often, carpool (#PostCovid), volunteer, buy used, shower less.
Or, you know, drive a 2 ton car very fast on tarmac. Buying stuff saves the economy, not the planet
toshman
Member
I’ve gone from gas mower and gas leaf blower to battery ones. Trying to convince the wifey that we need to get a battery powered snow blower. Not quite there yet lol.
toshman
Member
Similar threads
