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Old fuse box and home charger?

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Hi all,

I hope this isn’t a silly question but I’ve just moved into a new home and have been told I have an old fuse box inside the property which I really should upgrade at some point.

i wondered if this old fuse box would still be compatible with an electric charger I want to have installed when I get a model 3?

thanks,
Teza
 
As far as I am aware the charger won't come off your fuse box, it will come out of your meter box .
The regulations on fuse boxes change regularly but unless it is faulty of 20/30 years old it is unlikely to be an issue (unless the property is rented out as, from this year the electrics need to be certified to current standards)
 
Hi all,

I hope this isn’t a silly question but I’ve just moved into a new home and have been told I have an old fuse box inside the property which I really should upgrade at some point.

i wondered if this old fuse box would still be compatible with an electric charger I want to have installed when I get a model 3?

thanks,
Teza

It's very, very, common for recommendations to be made to replace old, but perfectly serviceable, consumer units. The regs have changed a lot over the years, and the requirements for a modern consumer unit are somewhat more stringent (and make for a far more expensive unit) than used to be the case. It seems there are a generation of newer electricians around who ALWAYS recommend changing a CU whenever they do an EICR (used to be called a periodic inspection). My view is that a fair bit of this is aimed at generating income . . .

There's been a steady shift towards finding ways to increase the income of electricians by the IET over the past few years, introducing changes to regulations that fail to address fundamental problems (like poor workmanship) and creating what seems, at first sight, to be a never-ending stream of money making changes. Take periodic inspections, for example. For decades, every domestic installation has been supposed to have one of these not less than once ever ten years. It's primarily a safety inspection/test, and involves around half a days work checking and testing to see if the installation is still safe.

The periodic inspection process used to have four categories of non-compliance, things that need to be brought to the customer's attention. The highest two of these are the same, C1 and C2, where C1 is a fault so dangerous the electrician must isolate the supply and lock it off, to prevent the risk of fire or electric shock (these are pretty rare). C2 is similar, a fault that needs urgent rectification, but isn't so severe that there is an immediate threat to life. C3 is fault or non-compliance that doesn't mandate urgent work to rectify, but the customer is advised to get it fixed as soon as is practical.

C4 doesn't exist any more, but used to be far and away the most common category, as it described a safe and serviceable installation that complied with the version of the regulations that were applicable when it was designed and installed. That was a really useful category, as it reassured the customer that their installation was no less safe now than it had when it had been put in. Sadly, it's now a requirement that C4 not be used, and any "fault" that would have previously been a C4, like an old, but perfectly serviceable, consumer unit, now has to be coded as a C3, something that, IMHO, is completely unreasonable.

Getting back on-topic, as already mentioned, the best way to connect a charge point is to the tails coming into the CU from the meter. There should be no reason to disturb the old CU at all.
 
Thanks so much for the responses. That saves me some expenditure. It’s now just to choose which charger I should purchase, seems to be so many different choices...

My Model 3 arrives tomorrow and I have decided to simply put a 32 amp commando socket in the garage - I bought the 32 amp 'tail' that will go into the charger that comes with the car. It seems, from all I've read, to be a perfectly adequate solution for overnight charging. Were I to go on any trips over 200 miles (which is rare) I'd have to throw it all in the boot - which is hardly an issue.
 
My Model 3 arrives tomorrow and I have decided to simply put a 32 amp commando socket in the garage - I bought the 32 amp 'tail' that will go into the charger that comes with the car. It seems, from all I've read, to be a perfectly adequate solution for overnight charging. Were I to go on any trips over 200 miles (which is rare) I'd have to throw it all in the boot - which is hardly an issue.

The only snag with that solution is that the cost of installing a 32 A commando outlet for connecting a car charge point is pretty close to the cost of connecting a simple dumb Type 2 charge point. By the time you've paid out for the mandatory protection devices, interlocked commando outlet and submitted the required building regs Part P chit (it's almost always notifiable work in England and Wales), I doubt there's more than about £50 to £100 in it.
 
The only snag with that solution is that the cost of installing a 32 A commando outlet for connecting a car charge point is pretty close to the cost of connecting a simple dumb Type 2 charge point. By the time you've paid out for the mandatory protection devices, interlocked commando outlet and submitted the required building regs Part P chit (it's almost always notifiable work in England and Wales), I doubt there's more than about £50 to £100 in it.

I am between houses at the moment and renting a country house for a while - otherwise I'd probably have a tethered-type solution. The electrician I have to use can't apply for the grant either. So my solution works for me. :)
 
I am between houses at the moment and renting a country house for a while - otherwise I'd probably have a tethered-type solution. The electrician I have to use can't apply for the grant either. So my solution works for me. :)

I understand not everyone can claim the grant, but there are some (not for a moment saying it's you) who mistakenly believe they can install a commando outlet for car charging without having to comply with the safety regs. The fact is that any outlet, of any type, that will be used for charging an EV must be installed in accordance with the regs, and almost certainly notified to building control. Failure to do this can lead to a hefty fine, or even imprisonment (in England and Wales).

There are very good safety reasons for mandating that this be done, as I found out on Sunday, when our supply developed a PEN fault, as a consequence of a tree bringing a cable down and the knock on effect of that. Luckily our PME earth only went up to about 80 VAC above true local earth, but it could easily have swung up to a far more dangerous voltage. Had my car been plugged into the old 16 A commando socket I used to use for charging, years ago, the car bodywork would have swung up to that high earth voltage, presenting a significant electric shock risk. First time I've ever seen a PEN fault first hand, but it was scary enough to cause me to be more than a little concerned at any outdoor installation that doesn't have some form of open PEN fault protection. It's been normal practice to provide some form of open PEN fault protection for any outdoor supply that is connected to exposed conductive parts for decades, so it makes sense to apply the same logic to car charge point supplies.
 
I won't be installing it. I work in advertising, not electricity. :)

I didn't mean to suggest that you'd be installing it yourself, but thought you'd be getting it installed. The key thing is that some electricians (mainly those unfamiliar with the regs that apply to vehicle charging) may not realise that it's mandatory to fit open PEN and DC tolerant earth leakage protection to an outlet installed to charge an EV. The electricians who regularly install charge points know this aspect of the regs inside out usually, but it seems that few who don't normally do this sort of work do.