Onboard Charger Died

[Canuck]

Sorry, I see now that you did say that. I read this line:

Just as an FYI on the old dual charger setup amps 0-40 are all on the primary charger.

Which is not true -- since I set it to 42 and 0-40 amps are not on the primary charger -- only 21 amps are. But I do see now that your next sentence qualifies it. My apologies.

 

[Rocky_H]

Isn't that exactly what I said? If you charge 0-40 amps the primary charger handles it all. Once you charge over 40 amps it splits it evenly between the two. (i.e. at 42 amps each handles 21 amps.)

Yes it is. Someone could do the right thing and remove the "dislike".

 

[scottm]

Any thread that discusses chargers / failing should have this clearly in it:


Incidentally, the [replacement] part is a Ferraz Shawmut 50A 500VAC fuse, part # A50P50-4



...nicked one on ebay for less than $5 (new!) Bought one on-spec, waiting for charger to blow a fuse now, so I'll be ready. Keep it in the car.

 

[zdre]

My Gen 1 charger failed a few days ago. Service center is quoting $2,500! That is $500 more than they used to charge for installation of a second charger. I may have agreed to it if it was cheaper, but $2,500 is crazy! I ordered fuses, but concerned that something else in the charger is actually causing the fuse to blow, and the fix won't last very long.

 

[zdre]

Service center is quoting $2,500!

This is for a refurbished unit by the way.

 

[N..8]

Replace the fuse and if it blows again then you're only out 5 bucks. If the fuse blew and your car hasn't caught fire then the fuse did it's job and replacing it doesn't put you at any greater risk.

 

[zdre]

Replace the fuse and if it blows again then you're only out 5 bucks. If the fuse blew and your car hasn't caught fire then the fuse did it's job and replacing it doesn't put you at any greater risk.

Yep, will try it of course... if it blows again, will have to buy a used charger, install myself, and ask Tesla to force a firmware update.

 

[MP3Mike]

and ask Tesla to force a firmware update.

Good luck with that.

 

[Timothy Meredith]

My Gen 1 charger failed a few days ago. Service center is quoting $2,500! That is $500 more than they used to charge for installation of a second charger. I may have agreed to it if it was cheaper, but $2,500 is crazy! I ordered fuses, but concerned that something else in the charger is actually causing the fuse to blow, and the fix won't last very long.

I may be being optimistic but I bet its probably just the fuse. Personally its been over a year now (knock on wood) since I replaced mine and at least 10k miles, almost all charged at home and i've had no issues with the charger. Did have a window motor go out recently I had to replace though ;\

 

[zdre]

So there could not have been a blown fuse at all.. I did a hard reboot by power off button and disconnecting/reconnecting the high voltage cutoff loop in the frunk. Miraculously, car charges fine now. I have limited it to 20A just in case though... Will report back if it dies again.

 

[SlicerDicer]

It's pretty straightforward to swap to new unit. Getting to the 50 amp fuses is more challenging. Though the unit itself looks easy outside the glycol running though it.

 

[scaesare]

It's pretty straightforward to swap to new unit. Getting to the 50 amp fuses is more challenging. Though the unit itself looks easy outside the glycol running though it. View attachment 331338 View attachment 331339 View attachment 331340

Just to be sure... the 50A fuses that die are in the charger. That second pic you show is the HVJB, which also does indeed have fuses in it, but I've yet to hear of those being the issue.

Here is my teardown thread of the (Gen 1) charger that shows the fuse location, along with some tidbits to help with disassembly.

 

[Troyin909]

In case anyone else searches for onboard charger failures and needing some specifics:

The fuse part number for the charger was: A50P50-4 , that is it for at least the first gen charger (I'd bet 2012-~2015).

The youtube video above describes everything you need except the kinda rush through the 12v/HV battery disconnect process and removal of the rear back seat.

In the video he explained he removed the charger altogether but also mentions it is way easier to leave the charger in the car and to work on it in the car so you dont have to disconnect the coolant lines. I chose that route, leaving it in the car:

Below in the picture of the charger torn apart in the bottom middle of the charger you'll see the 2 fuses, I used a DMM to test them both and 1 was bad (I really wish I had just ordered 2 and replaced both, but amazon only had 1 in stock for prime and the rest would have taken longer).

View media item 117034View media item 117033

Ha h

In case anyone else searches for onboard charger failures and needing some specifics:

The fuse part number for the charger was: A50P50-4 , that is it for at least the first gen charger (I'd bet 2012-~2015).

The youtube video above describes everything you need except the kinda rush through the 12v/HV battery disconnect process and removal of the rear back seat.

In the video he explained he removed the charger altogether but also mentions it is way easier to leave the charger in the car and to work on it in the car so you dont have to disconnect the coolant lines. I chose that route, leaving it in the car:

Below in the picture of the charger torn apart in the bottom middle of the charger you'll see the 2 fuses, I used a DMM to test them both and 1 was bad (I really wish I had just ordered 2 and replaced both, but amazon only had 1 in stock for prime and the rest would have taken longer).

View media item 117034View media item 117033

thank you for the post. I had a feeling it was a fuse. I’ll open mine up and give it a look.

 

[Timothy Meredith]

Ha h

thank you for the post. I had a feeling it was a fuse. I’ll open mine up and give it a look.

No problem hope it helps, if its first gen charger (40amp) and not charging, its 95% likely its just fuse.

 

[Troyin909]

No problem hope it helps, if its first gen charger (40amp) and not charging, its 95% likely its just fuse.

Well I looked under the seat in my 2013 P85 and it has dual chargers so I’ll have to figure it out. I ordered 4 fuses for now and I’ll have to figure out if the driver side is the primary and then maybe order 2 more for the space later.

 

[arjan.a]

Does anyone know if the EU charger is having the same issue? My MS 2015 is charging at only 2 of the 3 phases. Tesla is offering a new charger for 2500 euro, car out of warranty. I am very interested in replacing a fuse, and would like to do this myself, but do you know the difference between EU and US master chargers?

 

[outdoors]

My 2017 S onboard charger is reduced to 6kw.
Tesla has said I need a new one for $2700. From what I have learned from some really nice folks is I might have just a fuse within the unit that has died and could possibly save it.

Anyone within a couple states around Michigan feel like opening it up? I am handy, but orange cables scare me.

If not Tesla says I get the old one back. Which I will put up here for sale.

 

[Lasttoy]

I read that if there was no core charge, there is Federal law they have to give u the old part. They tried to keep a charge port on me. I raised hell, threatened to call the police. They gave me my old port. It was perfect. I now have extra $600 port. It was v9 software problem.
I fixed my door mechanisms, change gear or micro switches. They charge 800 for them, I have 4 extra off Ebay. I will bet they r fixing them and installing on next car.

 

[Max*]

I read that if there was no core charge, there is Federal law they have to give u the old part. They tried to keep a charge port on me. I raised hell, threatened to call the police. They gave me my old port. It was perfect. I now have extra $600 port. It was v9 software problem.
I fixed my door mechanisms, change gear or micro switches. They charge 800 for them, I have 4 extra off Ebay. I will bet they r fixing them and installing on next car.

Yeah, they tend to try to keep parts. Did the same thing to me until I brought up the local law requiring them to return my part, they had to get the service manager involved, but all ended well.

If you stand firm, they'll back down (on this).

 

[outdoors]

Yeah, they tend to try to keep parts. Did the same thing to me until I brought up the local law requiring them to return my part, they had to get the service manager involved, but all ended well.

If you stand firm, they'll back down (on this).

In my case I asked do I get to keep it. He said all yours. Not even a pipe. My 48amp is up for sale. Not sure what to ask. So went for 1k OBO.

Side note they said they are going to get me some new headlights(dying brow). Might take time, but out of warranty I am good with time.