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One pedal driving

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Do any of you have to regularly parallel park on city streets or fit in a tight garage?

I say this as somebody that drove a manual transmission for 30 years pre Tesla and runs full regen, but uses creep mode. With either an automatic transmission or a manual transmission I can move an ICE car under an inch at a time quite smoothly. I can't do that with one pedal. I have zero issues with it on the road where you don't have to precisely place yourself behind a stopped car within 2 or 3 inches, but find parking with it a chore. And you can't switch modes without going into park and digging through menus.

yeah I often park in a tiny garage where you can just about get out on one side if the car (RHD) if the left side is almost touching the wall.
No creep. Just press the accelerator pedal gently. Much easier than having the car crash into the walls by driving without it being supposed to.
 
Yes, I drive one-pedal all the time.

Do any of you have to regularly parallel park on city streets or fit in a tight garage?

I say this as somebody that drove a manual transmission for 30 years pre Tesla and runs full regen, but uses creep mode. With either an automatic transmission or a manual transmission I can move an ICE car under an inch at a time quite smoothly. I can't do that with one pedal. I have zero issues with it on the road where you don't have to precisely place yourself behind a stopped car within 2 or 3 inches, but find parking with it a chore. And you can't switch modes without going into park and digging through menus.

We hear this complaint sometimes, but it makes no sense to me. I don't feel like I have unusually good control over my pedal foot, and I have no issues at all with tight parking spaces.

I suspect that for most of those who say they have a problem with parking unless they're in Creep is that they're actually just overly nervous about moving while having their foot off the brake pedal.

In one pedal mode, I can easily touch the accelerator enough to get moving, then gradually let off as I approach my target so that it slows to just an one inch per second, and then let go of the pedal entirely to make the car stop entirely, never needing to hit the brake.

I had Creep turned on a few weeks ago after letting my sister drive (I put it in creep so that she was comfortable.) I found it maddening how slowly it would creep forward from a stop, and immediately decided I would never want to use that for parking, anyway.
 
It would be great if there would be less regen when backing up to let the car roll a bit. I still leave it on but each time I back up I have a bad 10 seconds.
Interesting, I had this very behaviour the other day when I drove my girlfriend's Chevy Bolt. It does offer one-pedal driving, but not in reverse. When I had to back up and took my foot off the brake I was like "DAFUQ, why is it already moving?"
I guess it works either way, you just have to get used to how it works.
 
And so far I don't like hold mode. The hold can be jarring and it *is* using the real brakes to do it. And then it takes more energy and other abrupt mechanisms to come out of hold to get going again.

There is the slightest of ticks when it engages the brake pedal to go from 0.5 mph to a full stop, and the slightest of jolts when the brakes actually apply. They could make the physical pedal application slightly slower to make it smoother, but that would put more wear on the brakes (slipping is frictive) and would also them to implement algorithms to equate that slippage in various conditions of incline, decline, balance it against the motor output... and to make sure there isn't rollback if you're facing uphill... and etc., and etc. I think they went with a simple mild-but-rapid engagement after the motors bring the speed down enough and left it at that, which minimizes the risk of making an error that allows the car to roll into something.

If you don't like that very slight tick and jolt, I understand. It irked me a tiny bit before I got used to it, but I quickly got used to it and now appreciate the ability to hear/feel that faint tick as confirmation that the car is fully stopped.

That having been said - you're mistaken about the idea that it takes more energy and abrupt mechanisms to come out of Hold to get going again. You're stuck in ICE-based thinking, where that would be true - but with electric motors, the easiest thing to do is apply torque from a dead stop. That's where they have the most torque, and where it takes the least energy to get moving. No gearing changes or clutching ever happens, because it's direct-drive with fixed gearing. And the release of the physical brake is just that - a release. No meaningful energy impact or abruptness involved. In fact, everything that has to happen to come out of a stop under one-pedal driving also has to happen when you're coming out of a stop in Creep or Roll, if you've actually stopped the car yourself. In other words, if you've hit the brakes, you'll also have to let go of the brakes. The only time it's different is if you're in roll and came to a stop without every having to step on the brakes because the road is perfectly level or because you stop in a divot on the road.

If you really want to avoid the "restart" tick of the brakes when you step on the accelerator while in Hold, try this:

1. Turn on Hold mode.
2. Let the car come to a stop; the brakes tick as they engage after the car slows almost to a dead stop.
3. Just before you try to get going, touch the brake pedal with your foot. This will disengage the brake hold, and you are now in Roll.
4. Step on the accelerator... the car will move forward with no tick from the brake, since it's already in Roll.

I also rarely use 1st gear in my manual ICE. Almost always start from 2nd unless it is truly a dead, dead stop.

Yeah, starting up in 2nd makes it easier to be smooth on the takeoff, so clearly that's your emphasis: smoothness... but I'll note that it's bad for the clutch. Your gain in smoothness comes at the expense of clutch wear (you unavoidably have more slippage when engaging from a stop at a higher gear) and in fuel consumption (you unavoidably use more fuel to get going from a standstill because you spend more energy in slippage in 2nd than you would in first.)

An expert in a standard ("manual") transmission can smoothly start with a minimum of slippage in 1st, and then shift from 1st to second with virtually no slippage at all, putting less wear on the clutch, gears, and other transmission components that any expert trying to do so in 2nd.

Before you counter with "but my clutch lasts a long time so it must be fine," I'll give you my standard reply to everyone else who says that: however long your personal clutch lasts, it would last even longer if you'd use 1st gear as designed and available. And it's OK for you to use your car however you like, it's your car.

The "legit" reason for starting in 2nd gear is this: if you're an an extremely slick road condition, such as trying to get started on black ice, starting in 2nd can make it easier to avoid losing tire traction on the ice so that you can get going. This works explicitly because it puts more slippage on the clutch, which make slippage of the tire less likely.
 
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Do any of you have to regularly parallel park on city streets or fit in a tight garage?

I say this as somebody that drove a manual transmission for 30 years pre Tesla and runs full regen, but uses creep mode. With either an automatic transmission or a manual transmission I can move an ICE car under an inch at a time quite smoothly. I can't do that with one pedal. I have zero issues with it on the road where you don't have to precisely place yourself behind a stopped car within 2 or 3 inches, but find parking with it a chore. And you can't switch modes without going into park and digging through menus.

I park in a tight garage under a 4 post lift so < 6 inches on each side and can get within an inch of the wall at the back of the garage reliably
 
So, had a question... during one-pedal-drive, to stop the car, does it apply the brakes for you or does it do on it's own?
Your question is essentially asking the same thing twice. "Does it apply the brakes for you" and "does it do on it's own" means to me the same. But to answer your question, yes, the car does apply the brakes for you without having you to physically push the brake pedal. Simply by lifting your right foot off the accelerator pedal, the car will slow down to a stop. With enough practice, you'll be able to judge exactly when to ease off on the go pedal when approaching a stop sign and have the car stop behind the limit line.
 
One pedal driving involves using only the regenerative braking to slow you down; in Hold mode to a full stop without using the disk brakes at all (except occasionally, like today when I had to slow quickly at a light that turned red at the last second!). Even going down a steep hill where I live the regenerative braking is sufficient to stop the car at the bottom.
 
I always liked regen, but started with”‘creep” mode which feels more like an ICE car.
Very quickly, “hold” and one pedal driving became a favorite!

* Note: It is good to use the brakes once in a while to heat them up so the pads don’t collect moisture and rot.
Possibly, Tesla has upgraded the brake pads, but I saw a post of rotted brake pads.
 
I'm sure that just about everyone has tried one-pedal driving. Have you continued to use it after giving it a try? If not, why not?

I use it 100% of the time when I'm driving. Sure it takes a little time to get used to it, but new shoes feel odd the first time you put them on too. You lose nothing by doing it, and gain a bit more regeneration, and less brake wear (and its just so much easier).
 
I've driven with hold mode and zero regen - cold-soaked battery from -30C/-22F weather - and hold mode still worked to come to a complete stop, even just after starting driving. So I would have to conclude that it does apply friction brakes, if necessary.
 
I like it (one pedal driving) now...(now that we are mostly, but not completely out of the 40's)... My biggest gripe about it is that it is HIGHLY temperature dependent. It TOTALLY doesn't work in the winter and early spring here. So it is dangerous to get used to it. ...It seems like this *could* be solved to provide a CONSISTENT driving experience and consistent amount of regen braking (even if the battery can't deal with the charging current coming back).
I was remind yesterday that not only does regen not work in cold weather, but also if the battery is fully charged...ugh
 
Well, of course: you can't have more than 100% charge
The point is that the driving interface -- how you deal with the need to slow down/brake, how well one pedal driving works -- depends on the outside temperature and the SOC. That's not desireable...

Ideally the braking function should have nothing to do with charging (as far as the driver is concerned). Imagine if the amount of steering feedback depended on the SOC or the weather... we'd all be like WTF?
 
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The point is that the driving interface -- how you deal with the need to slow down/brake, how well one pedal driving works -- depends on the outside temperature and the SOC. That's not desireable...

Ideally the braking function should have nothing to do with charging (as far as the driver is concerned). Imagine if the amount of steering feedback depended on the SOC or the weather... we'd all be like WTF?

Over 99% of the time, it's not 100% full and it's not freezing out, or it's freezing but the battery is warm enough for Regen to work fine.

So 99% of the time one-pedal works great and is much better than not having it. That's highly desirable, to me.

If fear of what might happen if you forget the brake pedal exists in that 1% exception period prevents you from taking advantage of the feature, that's on you.
 
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