Only Tesla can do the alignment??
- Thread starter cstork
- Start date
Go to a place that does race car alignments where the technicians know about alignment angles and what works. It will cost more than then the cheap places, but it will be worth it. There's no magic to Tesla alignments. What I think they mean is that their alignment machine doesn't have the Tesla specs (probably because they haven't updated the software in a very long time).
It might cost less, I use a mom and pop shop. I don't have my Tesla yet but they didn't blink an eye to align a lowered BMW i3, they've done 3 of them for me and a Leaf. $89.
The important point is that they know about alignment angles and don't just do it without some actual thought. Since I don't know which shops do and don't have expertise, I'm fairly confident that any shop which does race car alignment has to know about the alignment angles, what each one does, and how to align for the best performance (whether that be lap times or tire life, performance can have several meanings).
Yes, this place does a lot of high-end cars in my area. It is very highly rated in the "gear-head" community.
There is nothing special or revolutionary about the suspension on a Tesla 3. Any alignment shop ought to be able to do the work without any head scratching.
Best,
dhrivnak
Active Member
When I tried to get my tires aligned, as the inside was wearing badly, I was told there was no camber adjustment. I later had a Ranger visit and he confirmed there is no camber adjustment in the Model 3. So for those who have aligned how does one adjust Camber?
Fortunately my Toe was fine.
Fortunately my Toe was fine.
Many cars have no OEM camber adjustment. There are aftermarket parts available at the usual Tesla enthusiast sites which allow caster/camber adjustment in both the front and rear.
https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/product/mpp-model3-fuca/
https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/product/tm3-ruca/
https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/product/mpp-model-3-rear-toe-arms/
Best,
Tell the ranger to read the Tesla Shop Manual. It shows you how to make adjustments to the camber. Not really surprised he didn't know because Rangers don't do alignments.
P3D-R
Member
Totally agree with you. The factory alignment is asking for inefficiency across the board and wear out tires prematurely. I've had many Model S clients with 21" stock wheels that hated replacing tires every year. They never realized the alignment was the culprit. I think all new Tesla owners should go and get an alignment to "good spec" because the factory setup is horrible.
As for centering of the steering wheel mine was never centered out of the factory. I wonder why it didn't "self calibrate" I didn't stress about it because I could do my own alignment and set my toe correctly. The alignment was so far off. Had a huge thrust angle in the rear and the front toe wasn't set with a centered steering wheel. Not to mention having camber biased in a way where it will make the car drift to the right.
P3D-R
Member
There is no factory camber adjustment in the rear. However, there is a small amount of adjustment up front. It's an unconventional adjustment and requires removal of the frunk but it is there. I assure you.
I am referencing this photo from unplugged performance spring install guide. It's a great image to illustrate where the front camber adjustment is.
See the highlighted circles below. These four points is how the "carrier" for the control arm and shock bolt into the chassis. Oddly enough Tesla has allowed the holes to be larger than the bolts' OD's. As a result there is room to shift the assembly in a couple directions. Because it's a circle it will ever so slightly adjust your caster as well. If you're patient enough you can get your #'s to match up pretty well. This is synonymous with a "camber plate" on a more traditional macpherson strut type application. It's really a trippy design. Audi is similar to this but they don't leave slop in the chassis mounting holes.
P3D-R
Member
To add to this. I have found in all the model 3's I've seen alignments on that the passenger side needs to be pushed inward = more negative camber, and the driver side pulled towards the fender = more positive camber. In doing so the #'s seem to line up. The chassis seem to have a negative camber bias on the driver side.
Dolemite
is my name
Only problem is that there's barely any play there - it amounts to "a little bit." For proper adjustment range, aftermarket parts are the only way to go.There is no factory camber adjustment in the rear. However, there is a small amount of adjustment up front. It's an unconventional adjustment and requires removal of the frunk but it is there. I assure you.
I am referencing this photo from unplugged performance spring install guide. It's a great image to illustrate where the front camber adjustment is.
See the highlighted circles below. These four points is how the "carrier" for the control arm and shock bolt into the chassis. Oddly enough Tesla has allowed the holes to be larger than the bolts' OD's. As a result there is room to shift the assembly in a couple directions. Because it's a circle it will ever so slightly adjust your caster as well. If you're patient enough you can get your #'s to match up pretty well. This is synonymous with a "camber plate" on a more traditional macpherson strut type application. It's really a trippy design. Audi is similar to this but they don't leave slop in the chassis mounting holes.
Next time any "pro" tells you with unflappable confidence that there's *no* adjustment for camber/caster on the Model 3, tell them to have themselves fired.
Yes, you adjust front camber/caster by moving the FUCA (Front upper control arm) mount.
And the rear camber is done by adjusting several linkages until you get what you need (not enough to deal with heavily dropped cars, which is why there's an aftermarket, but if you're close to stock height, this will get you where you need to be).
Yes, you adjust front camber/caster by moving the FUCA (Front upper control arm) mount.
And the rear camber is done by adjusting several linkages until you get what you need (not enough to deal with heavily dropped cars, which is why there's an aftermarket, but if you're close to stock height, this will get you where you need to be).
Last edited:
P3D-R
Member
It's enough for any street car and allows you to equalize both sides up front which is a huge benefit in my opinion. Just pointing out that the adjustment is there.
P3D-R
Member
Dolemite
is my name
Yeah for fine-tuning OE suspension, probably fine. When I put in my coilovers & got it aligned they told me it's "not enuff" but it's not like I want 0 camber up-front anyway, so whatever.
One guy mentioned "slotting the mounts" to get the camber "back in spec." That's how arsonists are born.
Similar threads
