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Oops, driving car in icy condition and car slipped on ice and hit a curb hard

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Summer tires turn into hockey pucks below 55 degrees, very dangerous to drive even in dry or wet conditions.. The wheels to a massive impact and absorbs the impact and the body was not damaged, I would strongly suggest as the poster suggested to get the suspension checked out,, you can clearly see based on the impact how fast the driver was going on a slick/frozen tires..

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This is a bit of misinformation. Unless they were made in a pineapple under the sea, you tires won’t turn into hockey pucks at this temp. 55 is a fine brisk day. Throwing winters on too early isn't beneficial either. It’s different if there’s already ice/snow on the road. I'm just someone on the Internet though, use your best judgment.

I'm suddenly craving some Indian cuisine.
 
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Around 46 degrees is what tire manufacturers typically specify as the switching point from summer to winter but it varies from tire to tire, compound to compound and car to car. In my experience found Michelin PSS tires started losing grip on dry pavement at 10C (50C) on my M2 which is a higher powered RWD car. Those were the worst tires I have experienced at lower temperatures but I understand the PS4S tires are a little better. At sustained temperatures of 55F you probably aren't going to get into any trouble with summer tires providing you realize the tires are not at optimum temperatures for spirited driving. Once you get into the 40's it's when you have to be mindful especially in wet conditions.
 
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I just need to know whether OP was really driving in the snow on summer tires…
Here's a better view of the OP's tires:
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MicrosoftTeams-image (11).jpeg

Obviously Pirelli, but are they Sottozeros? No, based upon the tread block appearance, the block spacing is not wide enough, and the blocks aren't tapered enough to be the Sottozero.

Plus, the bottom image shows the tire size, and the Load rating of 92Y, that makes it the P Zero, as the Sottozero is a 92W.
 
Here's a better view of the OP's tires:
View attachment 877566View attachment 877567
Obviously Pirelli, but are they Sottozeros? No, based upon the tread block appearance, the block spacing is not wide enough, and the blocks aren't tapered enough to be the Sottozero.

Plus, the bottom image shows the tire size, and the Load rating of 92Y, that makes it the P Zero, as the Sottozero is a 92W.
Def a good “zoom and enhance” analysis.
Also. Jeezus OP you’re lucky you didn’t hit any pedestrians.
 
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Thanks for posting the Tesla Cam stuff!

tldr BUT WE purchased our car in August and the first thing we did was get DEDICATED snow tires and wheels.

Not entirely sure what happened but it seemed like the OP was on stock tires. Below is our Winter Setup. Cheapest "cool looking wheels" coupled with Michelin X-Ice Snows. No curb rash from the pictures only the tire grease they put on.

We love the LOOK for the wheels but the tires are the most important. Two snows later, no issues.

The one thing I noticed in the OP's video is that the driver vs conditions were not ideal.

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I drove summer tire on my Porsche only when it was above freezing, but you do lose traction so had to be careful when making turns.
@ay221 correct

The argument goes back to several things.

1. Drive within your limits
2. Ensure your vehicle has what it needs for the conditions.
3. DON'T push it.

Not directed at you @ay221 but tires have limits. For us Coloradans....things change on a moments notice. I know EXACTLY the date the OP had the "incident".

Just be careful and if you want to "chance" things on a drive that makes you uncomfortable for your vehicle or your abilities just stay home.

We own 2 P cars......I will NEVER take my track car out if there is precipitation in the fall/winter/early spring. When it is "nice" I will definitely "exercise it" after a tuning session but will NOT take it out in the conditions shown.

The OP learned a valuable lesson that the community can take advice from.

Personally Tires and Driver actions were a combination for a failure.
 
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@ay221 correct

The argument goes back to several things.

1. Drive within your limits
2. Ensure your vehicle has what it needs for the conditions.
3. DON'T push it.

Not directed at you @ay221 but tires have limits. For us Coloradans....things change on a moments notice. I know EXACTLY the date the OP had the "incident".

Just be careful and if you want to "chance" things on a drive that makes you uncomfortable for your vehicle or your abilities just stay home.

We own 2 P cars......I will NEVER take my track car out if there is precipitation in the fall/winter/early spring. When it is "nice" I will definitely "exercise it" after a tuning session but will NOT take it out in the conditions shown.

The OP learned a valuable lesson that the community can take advice from.

Personally Tires and Driver actions were a combination for a failure.
When I had I didn't drive it below freezing to avoid damaging the tires. On my M3P I got the performance all-season, but use another car with Nokian HP10s for bad winter weather. If I only had the M3P it would have at least winter tires.
 
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When I had I didn't drive it below freezing to avoid damaging the tires. On my M3P I got the performance all-season, but use another car with Nokian HP10s for bad winter weather. If I only had the M3P it would have at least winter tires.
or just go SUPER slow if you absolutely *have* to drive... in the OPs video I see a car on summer tires and solid snow covered street "flying" downhill on a residential street...
 
Great first post with dashcam and everything! Welcome!

Yeah, a bunch of suspension components likely shifted, no big deal for an alignment shop to reposition. Those wheels are pretty damaged and possibly bent, consider buying a used set of 4 for ~$2500 from the classifieds here or from Facebook.

Grinding might be something simple like a bent brake rotor shield, or maybe you damaged a wheel bearing? Either way it's a few hundred bucks to fix.

And btw, if you think you should wear a jacket, don't drive on those summer tires. I don't need to tell you what could happen when summer tires get cold.
I don’t think suspension components get “shifted” in a collision, they get bent. Michelin web site says the Pilot Sport 4s are ok down to zero degrees Fahrenheit, although snow is probably a no go.
 
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Summer tires turn into hockey pucks below 55 degrees, very dangerous to drive even in dry or wet conditions.. The wheels to a massive impact and absorbs the impact and the body was not damaged, I would strongly suggest as the poster suggested to get the suspension checked out,, you can clearly see based on the impact how fast the driver was going on a slick/frozen tires..
So in the PNW (Seattle area) the temperature is often below 55 and raining. Typically from November to April you’ll experience temps below 55 and often times raining. Are you suggesting that “summer tires” can only be used in our area when the temperature is above 55 degrees?? That would also mean most of Europe. Typical bad internet advice on your part. Please show me where Michelin PS4s cannot/should not be driven below 44 degrees.
 
Michelin web site says the Pilot Sport 4s are ok down to zero degrees Fahrenheit, although snow is probably a no go.

No it absolutely does not. All tire makers list mid-30's as the temperature limit.

 
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Hi Everyone,

Here is an update on repair costs if anyone is interested.

Oof. That's a hefty one. Hopefully your insurance company is picking up that tab? For that kind of cash, it probably makes sense to file a claim.

That said, I don't think Tesla is out of whack with the parts pricing. Each component seems reasonable in and of itself - the total is big but there's a lot of parts ... The only one that seems high is the wheel, and unfortunately that *is* what Uberturbines cost. Used/refinished wheels are typically in the ~$400-~$450 range, so $750 for a new one isn't out of whack.

Sorry about this - it's unfortunate but thankfully nobody was hurt. Had a similar slide into a curb at - maximum - 10mph in my Cadillac years ago. Scuffed the polished chrome wheel pretty badly and bent the lower control arm. That was a $1000 fix (arm + alignment) plus a new wheel. Stuff happens, unfortunately.
 
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To be fair, if you never drive it outside of Denver, the snow tends to melt fairly quickly, within half a day. Obviously, if it snowed, and you'd have to get somewhere, you wouldn't take a 3 with Performance tires. I think even if you were going as slow as 15mph, you could slide off. It's like driving on black ice. Once you've lost traction, you're just a passenger. You could be the greatest driver in the world, but you can't defeat physics.

Expensive lesson. Usually you get away unscathed, a little wiser. Unfortunately, in this case the first lesson appears to be an expensive one.
 
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