This is NOT a recommendation or a "how to". However it is something that happened and I took pictures, so I'll share them here. Govern yourself accordingly.
To help keep my ample butt in a fixed location during high G maneuvers I ordered a CG Lock. Unfortunately it turns out the front buckles on the Model 3 are a bit fancier than the CG Lock was designed for. They are still single loop, though, as per the CG Lock's instructions. It is just that the back end is oddly shaped.
I really, really wanted to start driving left-foot braking in AX yesterday and that just wasn't going to happen without getting a lot more seating stability. As luck would have it my angle grinder, with a cutting blade in it, slipped and went off. This was the result.
My tools must have been in a clumsy mood, as my lineman pliers then slipped twice. Once to trim off a piece, and then they curled the remaining bit back.
There were still some burrs and edges, so for safety sake I quickly filed these off. A lazy, bush league person would have done this by spinning up the grinder, cutting the power, then using the last bit of motion from it to polish. Hypothetically.
Serendipitously the result of all of this was a CG Lock that could be used on the Model 3 front buckle, with two caveats. Once you get the tongue in the belt will not move. So I had to be sure I had the exact lap length before I screwed the lower clamp into place, and it also means it is unfeasible to have it installed while daily driving. The second caveat is I needed to be very careful with the Allen wrench to keep from damaging the the screw head, as the angle is tight getting to the screw head.
I created a new profile to complement my X Plus Size, helmet-friendly driver profile. The new profile has the seat all the way down, slid all way back, the seat back tilted back a bit, and the lumbar all the way back. This is where I measured the lap belt to just be able to clip in. After I clip in I yank to lock the shoulder to lock into place as close as I can get it and then squirm to change the driver profile.
The result was near magical. No clinging on for dear life to the steering wheel, to need to "stand" with my left foot under heavy de-acceleration and cornering.
Also 2nd of maybe 6-8 drivers in D-Street class, using my left foot. The couple runs were tougher as I was really thinking about the brake and how I was going to use it, on top of trying to learn the course. Cones on both those runs, greatly over-estimated the speed I could carry through the slaloms. The third I got faster and then that messed up my entry to a 180. On the forth I needed to use braking in a way I hadn't planned and no-one was more surprised than me when my left foot just did its thing. Huh.
Anyway, just remember to not do this at home, kids.
To help keep my ample butt in a fixed location during high G maneuvers I ordered a CG Lock. Unfortunately it turns out the front buckles on the Model 3 are a bit fancier than the CG Lock was designed for. They are still single loop, though, as per the CG Lock's instructions. It is just that the back end is oddly shaped.
I really, really wanted to start driving left-foot braking in AX yesterday and that just wasn't going to happen without getting a lot more seating stability. As luck would have it my angle grinder, with a cutting blade in it, slipped and went off. This was the result.
My tools must have been in a clumsy mood, as my lineman pliers then slipped twice. Once to trim off a piece, and then they curled the remaining bit back.
There were still some burrs and edges, so for safety sake I quickly filed these off. A lazy, bush league person would have done this by spinning up the grinder, cutting the power, then using the last bit of motion from it to polish. Hypothetically.
Serendipitously the result of all of this was a CG Lock that could be used on the Model 3 front buckle, with two caveats. Once you get the tongue in the belt will not move. So I had to be sure I had the exact lap length before I screwed the lower clamp into place, and it also means it is unfeasible to have it installed while daily driving. The second caveat is I needed to be very careful with the Allen wrench to keep from damaging the the screw head, as the angle is tight getting to the screw head.
I created a new profile to complement my X Plus Size, helmet-friendly driver profile. The new profile has the seat all the way down, slid all way back, the seat back tilted back a bit, and the lumbar all the way back. This is where I measured the lap belt to just be able to clip in. After I clip in I yank to lock the shoulder to lock into place as close as I can get it and then squirm to change the driver profile.
The result was near magical. No clinging on for dear life to the steering wheel, to need to "stand" with my left foot under heavy de-acceleration and cornering.
Also 2nd of maybe 6-8 drivers in D-Street class, using my left foot. The couple runs were tougher as I was really thinking about the brake and how I was going to use it, on top of trying to learn the course. Cones on both those runs, greatly over-estimated the speed I could carry through the slaloms. The third I got faster and then that messed up my entry to a 180. On the forth I needed to use braking in a way I hadn't planned and no-one was more surprised than me when my left foot just did its thing. Huh.
Anyway, just remember to not do this at home, kids.
