TMC is an independent, primarily volunteer organization that relies on ad revenue to cover its operating costs. Please consider whitelisting TMC on your ad blocker or making a Paypal contribution here: paypal.me/SupportTMC

Opti Coat Pro or Suntek Wrap (Partial w/total hood coverage)

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by benemac, Jun 23, 2014.

?

What Kind of Protective Seal for Your Car

  1. Opti Coat (Pro or 2.0)

    41.2%
  2. Suntek Wrap (Partial or Full)

    11.8%
  3. XPEL Wrap (Partial or Full)

    17.6%
  4. Combination of Option 1 with 2 or 3

    29.4%
  1. benemac

    benemac Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Messages:
    180
    Location:
    Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
    We are attempting to get all the details ironed out before we receive our car. Tint and protection will be done the first few days. So what I'm wondering about is whether we should do one or a combination of the following:
    1. OptiCoat Pro - To give it the shine and some protection from the dust in Scottsdale/Phoenix and make the car easier to clean. I've learned we can also request a thicker application in the areas that are more prone to getting hit by rocks. I do want to protect the car, so if anyone has just done this application without PPF, can you share your thoughts on it protective capabilities?
      • And can you share costs for the option you chose? I'm assuming there are different costs if you only do exterior vs ext/int.
    2. Suntek wrap - We really can't go with the full wrap, but will consider the $1300 option that covers the hood and other rock-prone areas.
    3. #2 and OptiCoat Pro on the exposed areas - Not sure where the cost would be with this choice. I'd like to hear if anyone's done this or even the combo XPEL with Opti.
      • If you're covering the exposed areas, is that noticeable between the wrap and the Opti? We read that Suntek shines better because it's thinner, so we like the idea of Suntek.
      • If you did the combo, what cost have you seen for a partial Opti coverage? And does it include the wheels and interior?


    If anyone has pictures of their car with any of these options, I'd love to see them.

    Thanks for your help.
     
  2. SummerlinModelS

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2013
    Messages:
    64
    Location:
    Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
    We did #3+ on ours. We used Suntek wrap on the full hood, front quarters. We picked it as it was recommended over Xpel due to less orange-peek appearance and are extremely happy with it. We then did OptiCoat over the entire car--not just the exposed areas. The thinking is that we want everything to shine the same way, the ease of wash that OptiCoat brings, and the extra level of protection overall. Any difference in OptiCoat cost would be minimal so it really didn't make sense to exclude areas simply because they had PPF on them.
     
  3. SeminoleFSU

    SeminoleFSU Member

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2013
    Messages:
    718
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    I haven't done it yet, but I'm pretty much doing exactly what SummerlinModelS just described... might not be opticoat, could be some other type of sealant... but Suntek the front and then seal/protect the whole thing
     
  4. JPP

    JPP Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2013
    Messages:
    1,842
    Location:
    SF Bay area, CA
    Assume you have already spent some quality time searching these forums (and also using volkerize.com to search the official TM forums) to read the voluminous posts/comments on the subject. This is a very subjective issue with no shortage of opinions. FWIW, I had mine professionally detailed/perfected and OptiCoat Pro (exterior only) and could not be happier. Price? Depends. You need to have immaculate paint before applying anything, so detailing varies--assume $300-400 or so and the better part of a day. OptiCoat Pro--usually around $350. Ease of maintenance and on going esthetics--priceless.
     
  5. benemac

    benemac Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Messages:
    180
    Location:
    Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
    #5 benemac, Jun 24, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2014
    I've spent a lot of time on this and there are so many options out there! I have gone back and forth and keep thinking I'm done with it. Then I read something else that makes me rethink my decision. I will volkerize to see if I get better results on searching. Didn't even know about that. I've been doing the Google search at the top right. But based on the answers here, we are thinking we'll do the Suntek. And if it's reasonable, I'll have OptiCoat Pro applied to the car like SummerlinModelS did. We'll have to see what the cost of that is. I appreciate everyone's input. Sounds beautiful and worth it!
     
  6. SummerlinModelS

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2013
    Messages:
    64
    Location:
    Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
    Benemac--as you live in Scottsdale you have condition similar to us. To be honest, if we just drove around metro Las Vegas I probably wouldn't have done the PPF, but as we do frequent trips to California through the desert we've had a number of paint chips on prior cars so doing the PPF was a no brainer to us. Either way the OptiCoat is a must. We tried to just do a regular wax/polymer sealant at first but quickly found it to be inadequate to provide the level of protection we wanted for our "investment." Trust me..it's not cheap but it's so worth it in the end!
     
  7. benemac

    benemac Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Messages:
    180
    Location:
    Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
    You're right about the conditions. We'll be doing lots of trips to San Diego with family over there. And then possibly trips to see my father-in-law in San Jose. But even staying here can be an interesting experience if you're caught in one of our dirt storms. I think you get those in Vegas or the surrounding areas at times. Since we almost went with the Dual Chargers, maybe we can do OptiCoat as our replacement choice. We just have to find someone who does it in Scottsdale and I'm sure someone does. :)
     
  8. shrink

    shrink Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Messages:
    556
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    I'm in central Phoenix 4 miles north of downtown, but I'm having some similar work done in Scottsdale. I just bought a 1-year old 2013 Model S from an owner in Seattle. Everything, including the paint, was in very good condition, but I want to protect it a bit more in the desert. So, I dropped off the Model S this AM for: full detail (including paint correction); Xpel clear bra including full hood; 3M Crystalline Tint - 70 windshield/40 windows; and Opticoat. I bought a used Roadster last year as well and am having the Opticoat done for that car as well.

    All of this work is pretty expensive - even with a little haggling and volume discount for all the services between the 2 cars.

    I'll post some pictures when I get the Model S back on Thursday. I hope at that time to drop off the Roadster for Opticoat and have that back by Saturday.
     
  9. benemac

    benemac Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Messages:
    180
    Location:
    Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
    Please let me know who did the work whether you're happy or not. This way I can add or drop them from my list. You can PM me. You're doing Opticoat on the car after the partial Xpel application? And if so, is it over Xpel also?
    Cant wait to see the pics. Possibly a before shot to show the difference?
    I'm sure it'll be great on both.
     
  10. MoeMistry

    MoeMistry Local Vendor - SoCal

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2013
    Messages:
    428
    Location:
    Southern California
    #10 MoeMistry, Jun 25, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2014
    This topic usually confuses most owners, mainly because there's just so much information out there, it's simply overwhelming and an overload. Taking cost out of the equation, mainly because the services involved here, clear bra and tint, and to some extent the coatings, these are all semi-permanent protective enhancements to your MS. You will most likely not re-tint or re-clear bra for as long as you own your MS. And when it comes time for re-sale, the new owner will appreciate anything "extra" you've done to have the best installer and best material applied. You'll get most of your money back because you focused more on looking at this in an "investment/value" view, rather than a "price-conscience" frame of mind. Remember, VALUE doesn't mean cheapest price or option.

    With that out of the way, here are some simple decision-making questions to ask...this always helps my clients breathe a sigh of relief and make their choice:

    Clear Bra:

    Partial - This simply is the most minimal way to protect your vehicle, and this choice is either made because of client budget, and/or installer skill.
    * Will the most impacted areas be protected - YES
    * Will this be the lowest cost option - YES
    * Will this provide adequate protection - NO...leaves too much on hood and fenders exposed
    * Will the surrounding areas that don't have clear bra, say the other half of hood, or rest of fender, fade at a more rapid rate than area with clear bra - YES...there are films like XPEL Ultimate that allow UV through, but most materials, don't allow UV through. So, if you ever replace the clear bra, that Signature Red, or Metallic Blue, will look noticeably darker where there was clear bra

    Full - Best option and value in my opinion. This choice makes the most sense considering the whole point of clear bra is to protect the paint. The entire hood, fenders, bumper, headlights, and mirrors are covered in this option.
    * Will the most impacted areas be protected - YES
    * Will this be the lowest cost option - NO....Will this be the most VALUE for your money - YES
    * Will this provide adequate protection - YES...entire hood and fenders are protected against secondary level impacts
    * Will the surrounding areas that don't have clear bra, say the other half of hood, or rest of fender, fade at a more rapid rate than area with clear bra - NO...since you've covered such a large area, should you ever replace the film, your eye cannot pick up the color variation from the fender to the driver door. If you're looking head-on, you cannot tell a difference because entire front end was protected

    Exposed edges vs. wrapped edges - To me, extremely important!! Most installers simply pre-cut their clear bra. It keeps labor costs down since a machine cuts the film based on software data from clear bra manufacturer. This software is designed to make installation as installer-friendly as possible. The film will be cut just shy of the edge of panel. This leaves a seam that is slightly visible in the beginning. As the years go by, and washing, polishing, waxing are done, you keep rubbing that edge, getting debris, polish, wax on the edge, and you constantly clean the edge. The seam becomes more visible and the constant upkeep eventually exposes the adhesive on edge of film, the film starts to lift, and will eventually need to be replaced. To me, you just temporarily installed a semi-permanent product. Not really great VALUE since you'll eventually redo the installation...so double the cost in the long run.

    Wrapped edges can be done either by extending edges on software, or by custom wrapping the panel. A quality installer will spend extra time to extend edges on software so it wraps over the edges of panels. The installer will also take some extra time and make a bumper kit as seamless as possible. Many bumper kits come in several pieces to make it easy to install. If you join those pieces on the software, and have the skill to install the one-piece, the final product will be seamless and almost undetectable. It require more time during the pre-cutting as installer has to manually go into the software and extend edges, then during install, wrap all those edges over the panels. This usually will double the labor time. But, the results will be semi-permanent since the issues that exposed edges have, will not be applicable to wrapped edges. Not only does it look better, but it protects better. That's VALUE. Expect to pay more....about 25-50% more. But, it's better than redoing the whole job down the road.

    Tint:

    There are many great brands out there, focus on Ceramic. Ceramic films are more durable, reject more heat, you can go lighter shade and get excellent performance. Don't get too hung up on the #s. You'll notice a huge difference no matter what ceramic tint is applied. The better films will reject more heat and be clearer. Be more concerned about installer. The best film in the world isn't going to prevent dirt in the film, uneven edges of tint to glass, razor cut marks on the window from the installer cutting the tint to shape, etc. Installer experience and warranty is what you should be concerned about. You can have a shoddy installer using great film, you seldom have great installer using shoddy film. He/she has too much pride. The more advanced and cleaner installs are done by hand, not computer-cut. It'll take longer to install, but the results will be worth it. This is almost a permanent enhancement to your MS...spend extra money here because this product and the manner of how it's installed will be part of your MS long after you'll own it. It's about respecting the car as well.

    Coatings:

    Technology can be a beautiful thing. In the case of protecting your car, there are now solutions better than waxes and sealants that provide amazing durability and protection to caring for you paint, wheels, and glass. The most advanced technology we have in our industry is Nano Coatings. They've been around for decades, but more recently have companies began focusing and perfecting the coatings for our cars. Nano works on a molecular level and because the particles are so small, wax is like planet earth and nano like a small marble, they can more densely pack in porous surfaces. Almost every surface on your vehicle is porous. I prefer the "look" of a nano product over other coatings because it has greater gloss and depth. Sealants and super-sealants are fine and protect well, but some have a more muted "look" and if you have a metallic paint, that takes away from the brilliance.

    Nano requires a bit more to prep and install, so you'll notice you'll have to seek out a more professional caliber of an installer that's part of a network of installers for that coating. Yes, there is an element of marketing and exclusivity involved, but companies like CQuartz and Modesta only allow a select number of trained and qualified installers into their network. They also spread the installers over a geographic area as to not create price wars, which ultimately, hurt the consumer. The two companies I mentioned above, constantly audit their installers and will actually terminate an installer's contract if the customer service, installer technical abilities, or integrity isn't up to standard. This creates a solid network of qualified installers that ultimately have the consumer's best intentions in mind. Once again, you're paying for the installer know-how. As the installer does quality work using a quality product, the consumer spreads the word, and it's a win-win for everyone involved...Consumer, Car, and Installer.

    Finally, there is no coating out there that is permanent. Some claim 2-5 years, and others claim semi-permanent. Not true. It all depends on how well you care for the car. Just because the paint is beading, doesn't mean it's clean. After driving for weeks, months, a dirty car can bead after a rain because of all the petrochemicals it has accumulated on the paint surface from exhaust fumes of other cars, jet fuel fallout from sky, road oils, etc. To me, protection also means the surface is "clean". Even the most well-cared for car will have some contamination when you clay the surface six months later. With coatings, you're simply lessening the brutal effects of Mother Nature...you cannot beat her, but now you have a fighting chance to make a noticeable impact on her wrath. The prudent regimine will require you to follow up with your detailer every 8-12 months depending on your use and external environment.

    Well, it's almost 5:30 am here in SoCal and I started this post about an hour ago. I love what I do and am passionate about it. I hope this thread helps you choose the right option. I've tried to make it as unbiased as possible and focus on what YOU should think about. You now know enough to ask the right questions from the perspective technician that will be working on your Model S. Best advice I can give you....if you love your car, do what it right for the car. In the grand scheme, a few hundred, or even thousand, $$$, shouldn't stand in your way of doing a quality enhancement on a vehicle worth more than some homes around the country. No matter how you look at it, you and the future owner of the car will appreciate the quality and effort in a job done right the first time.

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten” – Benjamin Franklin
     
  11. Moparposterchild

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2013
    Messages:
    48
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    I have a quick question. I called Bain Mendoza who was recommended in the thread above as a top notch installer. He said he uses Nano Fusion as his material for the clear wrap. I hear everyone talking about Xpel. Does anyone have an opinion on the quality and Preformance of the Nano Fusion product?
     
  12. benemac

    benemac Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Messages:
    180
    Location:
    Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
    I honestly haven't heard of Nano Fusion. The only two that keep coming up are Xpel and Suntek. The latter is thinner and supposedly shows the paint better. A bit shinier than Xpel. For better protection, they say Xpel.

    I did get a couple quotes for Opti-Coat Pro. One was $850 and the other $975. It has to be the whole car and not just exposed parts after the full wrap. Because of the price, we're passing on that. One thing that did come out of the conversation is that the guy who gave the first quote raved about CQuartz Finest as a coating vs Opti-Coat Pro. He said it's shinier and smoother to the touch. I would have gone with that if we were moving forward with it. Instead, I'm hoping we can find the right products to protect the car and keep it shining. I've used Meguiars in the past and have loved their swirl remover. I will research more about different products though. My next project. :)
     
  13. shrink

    shrink Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Messages:
    556
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    #13 shrink, Jun 28, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2014
    Okay, just got my Model S back from the shop in Scottsdale. It took an extra day, but it is done and I'm very happy with it. When I bought the car from the owner in Seattle, it was about 13 months old and had 9000 miles on it. I don't think the owner waxed it very much, but it does rain a lot in Seattle. Anyway, the car looks brand new to me. The work performed:

    1) Full detail with paint correction
    2) XPel clear bra including full hood
    3) 3M Crystalline Tint - 70% windshield and 40% sides and rear
    4) Opti-coat Pro entire car

    Car looks brand new to me:

    1BF97D19-D5B0-4A8A-87FA-E9BA96F5EE7E.jpg

    B4EA923A-27B4-4EED-8E70-7829801C3512.jpg

    572F788C-1974-47D1-A095-B73C9D199310.jpg

    35936A04-407A-4E96-9584-EDC037FC5447.jpg

    53B74AFF-7578-4FCB-9C80-18CFC04269DE.jpg

    9C3FB174-3A9E-4274-9D94-BCC50F15F60D.jpg

    ECB41CEE-5443-4B2F-BAA0-5CE4CE75CE08.jpg

    1CB694EF-47BC-4D07-A0CE-0C5A60C447F7.jpg

    00F50D21-D1D2-429C-A929-EFCE34C62DA7.jpg

    9A3C35C2-A123-4027-9E8E-45679C4F5F05.jpg
     
  14. brianman

    brianman Burrito Founder

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2011
    Messages:
    15,487
    The top half of the latter picture reminds me of ggr's car.

    The bottom half reminds me of a dreamsicle.

    Neat picture. :)
     
  15. benemac

    benemac Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Messages:
    180
    Location:
    Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
    Absolutely beautiful! Glad this worked out so well for you.
     
  16. benemac

    benemac Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Messages:
    180
    Location:
    Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
    We keep discussing prices of these options, but are starting to settle on getting the partial or full wrap & opti coat. We still have another quote to get from another company, but we think tint first. Then full hood and whatever goes with that option. Then opticoat pro. After having our first huge dust storm of the season and getting caught in it while walking our dog, I now feel that having a car hit by sand like we were isn't something I want our Tesla to endure without good protection. :). I bet business picks up for these companies after what happened on the 3rd.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. jarred767

    jarred767 Member

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2014
    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    Bend, OR
    Wow that is an impressive dust cloud, glad I don't have to worry about that up here in Seattle.

    I am a big fan of putting Opticoat over whichever PPF you end up with. I don't do films myself, but I do work with OptiCoat and can vouch that it's some pretty good stuff. Very long lasting, resists scratching, protects very well, you can even tell it's there and I've never seen it fade or discolor over time. The biggest thing is to make sure that the paint is properly prepped first - wash, clay, polish, alchohol wipe down so that it's bonding to the cleanest and best paint possible. (Even a brand new car will need a decent amount of work before applying OptiCoat). Any good detailer down there should know this, but it's always good to ask.

    The prices you mentioned are in the ball park of what's to be expected (assuming that is including all the prep work too). It's a little higher than what I'd charge for a new car, but all markets are different.

    Full hood on the film is WAY better the the partial, and I would highly agree with getting the film wrapped around the edges wherever possible if they'll do that; it makes a huge difference in the long term upkeep and health overall look of the film.

    Good luck with it all, sounds like you've got a pretty good plan though!
     
  18. benemac

    benemac Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Messages:
    180
    Location:
    Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
    The installer of the wrap did mention they cut it longer to wrap under the hood and in other areas they can fold it. I think we'll be happy with their work. And they will fix the swirls and defects prior to wrapping and opti coat application. We still aren't sure of the price. We think he quotes higher and will drop it with negotiation. Plus, it is a new car, so we'll see if that price adjusts.
    Thanks for the advice. And good luck on fulfilling your dream as we are ready to do now. It took awhile, but we figured out how to do it.
     
  19. shrink

    shrink Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Messages:
    556
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    #19 shrink, Jul 7, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2014
    Just got my Roadster back from the same shop after OptiCoat treatment with paint correction. The swirl marks, which were pretty bad before, are barely noticeable. Many of the swirl marks seem gone, actually. The orange looks deeper and richer to me.

    For reference, the Roadster already had a clear bra on it and the window tint is Suntek CXP 35 from a different shop last year. I'm happy with the work. The Opticoated Model S survived the aforementioned haboob we had pretty well. All the dirt and other stuff from the haboob came off easily with a quick detailer.

    For any locals, the shop that did the work was Pit Stop Auto Detailing. Ask for Marcus.

    IMG_6344.jpg

    IMG_6343.jpg
     
  20. Electrofied

    Electrofied Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2015
    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Australia!
    Opticoats do not even come close to the level of scratch/stone protection that paint protection films (PPF) do. You basically need to work out what you are happy to sacrifice for the car. If you spend money protecting the front end, inevitably the little old lady will get out of her car next to yours in the carpark and scratch your doors, as we know these things happen so are you ok with that happening knowing you didn't want to protect the whole thing.

    The idea that Suntek is more clear than Xpel is not true. Xpel has great clarity and if an orange peel look was an issue than it would not be considered in the top two and installed on countless supercars worldwide. As for thickness, Suntek is 8.0ml and Xpel is 8.1mil and as you can imagine .1mil is pretty much unmeasurable but also would not affect clarity. At then end of the day both are the bee's knees and you will be happy with either.

    There is an option that seems to be missing and that is a vinyl wrap. Vinyl is also considered a protectant and is more than enough for every day wear and tear (scratches, stones etc). It takes a bit to go through it and if something does then it is at the detriment to the vinyl, not the paint underneath. Having an option that protects and changes the look of your car is a great thing. Just may be a happy medium price wise...

    I have personally had multiple cars over the years done in Xpel, Suntek and also full wraps and love them all for protection. I do think the ceramic coating is awesome technology to but personally wanted better protection from wear and tear that the cars get.

    - - - Updated - - -

    oops pardon my thread dig, did a search for pics of wrapped Tesla's and this thread came up and silly me assumed it was a recent one without looking at the dates :cursing:
     

Share This Page