This topic usually confuses most owners, mainly because there's just so much information out there, it's simply overwhelming and an overload. Taking cost out of the equation, mainly because the services involved here, clear bra and tint, and to some extent the coatings, these are all semi-permanent protective enhancements to your MS. You will most likely not re-tint or re-clear bra for as long as you own your MS. And when it comes time for re-sale, the new owner will appreciate anything "extra" you've done to have the best installer and best material applied. You'll get most of your money back because you focused more on looking at this in an "investment/value" view, rather than a "price-conscience" frame of mind. Remember, VALUE doesn't mean cheapest price or option.
With that out of the way, here are some simple decision-making questions to ask...this always helps my clients breathe a sigh of relief and make their choice:
Clear Bra:
Partial - This simply is the most minimal way to protect your vehicle, and this choice is either made because of client budget, and/or installer skill.
* Will the most impacted areas be protected - YES
* Will this be the lowest cost option - YES
* Will this provide adequate protection - NO...leaves too much on hood and fenders exposed
* Will the surrounding areas that don't have clear bra, say the other half of hood, or rest of fender, fade at a more rapid rate than area with clear bra - YES...there are films like XPEL Ultimate that allow UV through, but most materials, don't allow UV through. So, if you ever replace the clear bra, that Signature Red, or Metallic Blue, will look noticeably darker where there was clear bra
Full - Best option and value in my opinion. This choice makes the most sense considering the whole point of clear bra is to protect the paint. The entire hood, fenders, bumper, headlights, and mirrors are covered in this option.
* Will the most impacted areas be protected - YES
* Will this be the lowest cost option - NO....Will this be the most VALUE for your money - YES
* Will this provide adequate protection - YES...entire hood and fenders are protected against secondary level impacts
* Will the surrounding areas that don't have clear bra, say the other half of hood, or rest of fender, fade at a more rapid rate than area with clear bra - NO...since you've covered such a large area, should you ever replace the film, your eye cannot pick up the color variation from the fender to the driver door. If you're looking head-on, you cannot tell a difference because entire front end was protected
Exposed edges vs. wrapped edges - To me, extremely important!! Most installers simply pre-cut their clear bra. It keeps labor costs down since a machine cuts the film based on software data from clear bra manufacturer. This software is designed to make installation as installer-friendly as possible. The film will be cut just shy of the edge of panel. This leaves a seam that is slightly visible in the beginning. As the years go by, and washing, polishing, waxing are done, you keep rubbing that edge, getting debris, polish, wax on the edge, and you constantly clean the edge. The seam becomes more visible and the constant upkeep eventually exposes the adhesive on edge of film, the film starts to lift, and will eventually need to be replaced. To me, you just temporarily installed a semi-permanent product. Not really great VALUE since you'll eventually redo the installation...so double the cost in the long run.
Wrapped edges can be done either by extending edges on software, or by custom wrapping the panel. A quality installer will spend extra time to extend edges on software so it wraps over the edges of panels. The installer will also take some extra time and make a bumper kit as seamless as possible. Many bumper kits come in several pieces to make it easy to install. If you join those pieces on the software, and have the skill to install the one-piece, the final product will be seamless and almost undetectable. It require more time during the pre-cutting as installer has to manually go into the software and extend edges, then during install, wrap all those edges over the panels. This usually will double the labor time. But, the results will be semi-permanent since the issues that exposed edges have, will not be applicable to wrapped edges. Not only does it look better, but it protects better. That's VALUE. Expect to pay more....about 25-50% more. But, it's better than redoing the whole job down the road.
Tint:
There are many great brands out there, focus on Ceramic. Ceramic films are more durable, reject more heat, you can go lighter shade and get excellent performance. Don't get too hung up on the #s. You'll notice a huge difference no matter what ceramic tint is applied. The better films will reject more heat and be clearer. Be more concerned about installer. The best film in the world isn't going to prevent dirt in the film, uneven edges of tint to glass, razor cut marks on the window from the installer cutting the tint to shape, etc. Installer experience and warranty is what you should be concerned about. You can have a shoddy installer using great film, you seldom have great installer using shoddy film. He/she has too much pride. The more advanced and cleaner installs are done by hand, not computer-cut. It'll take longer to install, but the results will be worth it. This is almost a permanent enhancement to your MS...spend extra money here because this product and the manner of how it's installed will be part of your MS long after you'll own it. It's about respecting the car as well.
Coatings:
Technology can be a beautiful thing. In the case of protecting your car, there are now solutions better than waxes and sealants that provide amazing durability and protection to caring for you paint, wheels, and glass. The most advanced technology we have in our industry is Nano Coatings. They've been around for decades, but more recently have companies began focusing and perfecting the coatings for our cars. Nano works on a molecular level and because the particles are so small, wax is like planet earth and nano like a small marble, they can more densely pack in porous surfaces. Almost every surface on your vehicle is porous. I prefer the "look" of a nano product over other coatings because it has greater gloss and depth. Sealants and super-sealants are fine and protect well, but some have a more muted "look" and if you have a metallic paint, that takes away from the brilliance.
Nano requires a bit more to prep and install, so you'll notice you'll have to seek out a more professional caliber of an installer that's part of a network of installers for that coating. Yes, there is an element of marketing and exclusivity involved, but companies like CQuartz and Modesta only allow a select number of trained and qualified installers into their network. They also spread the installers over a geographic area as to not create price wars, which ultimately, hurt the consumer. The two companies I mentioned above, constantly audit their installers and will actually terminate an installer's contract if the customer service, installer technical abilities, or integrity isn't up to standard. This creates a solid network of qualified installers that ultimately have the consumer's best intentions in mind. Once again, you're paying for the installer know-how. As the installer does quality work using a quality product, the consumer spreads the word, and it's a win-win for everyone involved...Consumer, Car, and Installer.
Finally, there is no coating out there that is permanent. Some claim 2-5 years, and others claim semi-permanent. Not true. It all depends on how well you care for the car. Just because the paint is beading, doesn't mean it's clean. After driving for weeks, months, a dirty car can bead after a rain because of all the petrochemicals it has accumulated on the paint surface from exhaust fumes of other cars, jet fuel fallout from sky, road oils, etc. To me, protection also means the surface is "clean". Even the most well-cared for car will have some contamination when you clay the surface six months later. With coatings, you're simply lessening the brutal effects of Mother Nature...you cannot beat her, but now you have a fighting chance to make a noticeable impact on her wrath. The prudent regimine will require you to follow up with your detailer every 8-12 months depending on your use and external environment.
Well, it's almost 5:30 am here in SoCal and I started this post about an hour ago. I love what I do and am passionate about it. I hope this thread helps you choose the right option. I've tried to make it as unbiased as possible and focus on what YOU should think about. You now know enough to ask the right questions from the perspective technician that will be working on your Model S. Best advice I can give you....if you love your car, do what it right for the car. In the grand scheme, a few hundred, or even thousand, $$$, shouldn't stand in your way of doing a quality enhancement on a vehicle worth more than some homes around the country. No matter how you look at it, you and the future owner of the car will appreciate the quality and effort in a job done right the first time.
“The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten” – Benjamin Franklin
