Mr H
Active Member
Yep, just don't drop the soapWith all expenses paid, right?
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Own up, who was this?
- Thread starter Durzel
- Start date
Going to prison for speeding .... ooh it'd be terrible ....
Imagine only getting to go for a walk once a day, being confined to a small area, basic food rations and having to pay some convict £5 for a single roll of toilet paper!
Imagine only getting to go for a walk once a day, being confined to a small area, basic food rations and having to pay some convict £5 for a single roll of toilet paper!
SR+ or LR ... they look the same with Aeros on. Looks like mine ... but it's not! I know mine was here because I was doing some charging experiments having just repaired our ICE generator (not really expecting a total societal and infrastructure collapse but you never know ..). Anyway, I knew it was a long shot from what I had read but I can confirm that a Hyundai 7000LE doesn't charge a Model 3! (It could in theory because it certainly produces enough power but I believe the UMC is picky about the quality of AC.) It runs everything else in our house but there you go ...
The only thing the UMC cares about is an earth-neutral link in the system. The car on the other hand may care about the quality of the AC.
So if your attempt to charge failed with a red light on the UMC before even starting, it may be worth investigating the earthing arrangements of your generator.
Some generators are completely isolated, in which case you can simply add a link between earth and neutral; however, some have other odd arrangements like centre-tap to earth or, if dual 110V/230V outputs, earthing of the middle of the 110V winding which may then give 230V with a 175-E-55 arrangement. The UMC probably won't like the latter and you can't do much about it.
Yes, actually the UMC did appear to be functioning and the car reported the voltage and amps available on screen as expected when using the 3pin plug adapter (10A 235v). However the onscreen reported amps being drawn was either zero or occasionally flickered to 1 amp / 10amp with the car saying it was charging, but even if it was it was obviously not at any useable rate (though it gave a calculated time to completion based on the 10A figure). The generator is rated at 6.9 kva and has outputs rated at 115v and 230v AC as well as 12v DC. I attach the schematic which appears to show the only earth from the alternator being from the DC rectifier section.
Jonathantuba
Member
When I drive in Chicago, 20MPH over the limit is normal!What do you mean, "normal"?
Is it normal to break the law everywhere over there?
I'm sorry but these people are absolute idiots with no regards for the safety of anyone else. And this is regardless of the current situation with the stress the NHS is under!
Rooster6655
Active Member
The first time this happens will be the last time many people use this service, it will also be a feature in the future to remove such data if it became an issue.
Firstly they wouldn't know if it had Teslafi and secondly anyone who voluntarily gives information away to get themselves in trouble well....
I would not expect most people to know what a Tesla is never mind anything technical, even most owners wouldn't know about Teslafi unless you have been on the forums.
Tesla from what I have heard doesn't actually keep a 'record' of data such as speed, Teslafi records an some speed data
I’m not sure where you’ve heard that. I’m only going by the fact that in the case of fatal accidents in the USA, Tesla are able to furnish the investigating authorities with every last iota of data about the drive - the speed, pedal actions, autopilot status, G-forces, steering wheel input etc etc. It seems reasonable, given the car’s data connection, that at least some of this data is uploaded to Tesla’s servers. This is also where they get their data for improving autopilot.
MrBadger
Badger out
Also Tesla use that information for their, currently very limited, insurance service where they set their premium based upon driving style.
I believe many vehicles effectively have black box capabilities built into them. Even in my lowly Fiat, I recall something in the manual about 'black box' data being collected but I think it was certain regions only, not sure which.
Lots of sources to get this information, although many on their own may not be particularly damming. Even TeslaFi is limited by the granularity of its polling, but its an easy source to obtain. Drives can already be deleted, but I'm not sure about raw data. Certainly you would not want to be a TeslaFi et al. subscriber if you had anything to hide.
I believe many vehicles effectively have black box capabilities built into them. Even in my lowly Fiat, I recall something in the manual about 'black box' data being collected but I think it was certain regions only, not sure which.
Lots of sources to get this information, although many on their own may not be particularly damming. Even TeslaFi is limited by the granularity of its polling, but its an easy source to obtain. Drives can already be deleted, but I'm not sure about raw data. Certainly you would not want to be a TeslaFi et al. subscriber if you had anything to hide.
That's somewhat surprising on several counts.
Evidently you don't have an earthing issue, even though your generator schematic implies it is isolated, which would not be expected to work with a v1 UMC. It has been reported that the V2 solves the polarity-sensitive issue of the V1 (which required N to be close to earth and so didn't work if L and N were swapped, as common in France despite using polarised plugs) - I had expected Tesla to do this by duplicating the earth sensing, but possibly they've simply removed the feature altogether. Or possibly some aspect of your setup (whether fault or deliberate) keeps the earth detection happy. Anyhow, only of academic interest for your purposes.
I would also have expected the car to refuse to charge and throw an error message if it didn't like the quality of the power. It's rather odd that it should charge at a trivial rate; there is the feature which reduces charge current if it sees voltage sag that may be a sign of poor connections and so fire risk, but that is accompanied by an error message and doesn't reduce quite to the extent you are seeing. I wondered if it was in fact refusing to charge and just supporting the vampire load (consistent with about 1A draw), but that doesn't make sense as there is no direct route from the mains input to running the 12V loads - the only way it can run loads from mains power (eg. when pre-heating while plugged in) is to enable the charger and tweak the charging rate to exactly balance the load being drawn such that the battery itself is neither charging nor discharging.
People have reported success charging from even relatively small invertor generators, but yours seems to be a simple alternator type. The most likely thing it would be objecting to is variation in frequency or voltage. One possible experiment would be to attach some other significant load at the same time (eg. a 2kW heater or something like that), as the generators regulation is likely to be more stable to a small increase when it is already on load rather than moving off idle. However, if the car is in fact very sensitive to frequency then that type of generator probably can't do the job.
Thanks for your insights into the charger issue! I am sufficiently curious to have another go, bearing in mind your comments. Of course there's no immediate requirement to use the generator for car charging but I am interested to see if it can be made to work. With regard to earthing I did connect a cable to the earthing contact provided on the generator but it may not have made any difference to anything. I have the newer UMC supplied with the M3.
I should say that voltage sag (according to the car screen) was not an issue. Despite the car being ready to take 10A it didn't sound like there was a demand being put on the generator. As you say, it may well be that the maintenance of accurate frequency is the key. It appears that this is simply achieved by the maintenance of the correct mechanical revs of the generator's engine. This is done by a simple vacuum operated automatic throttle mechanism which is not really going to be capable of keeping the revs genuinely constant. There is a small LED display on the generator that can show frequency or voltage so I can check this in real-time when I try again (in practice you can hear the demand on the generator engine and the throttle compensating). I'll definitely try your idea of putting another demand on the generator simultaneously to see if that helps to stabilise it.
I'll let you know how I get on! [Sorry folks ... I know that none of this links with the title of this thread ...
]
Rooster6655
Active Member
The car records all the data and is stored for a certain amount of time of which it then gets overwritten for example the past 15 minutes worth of data, so if there was a crash and the car was a write off as long as its turned off (Which automically happens in a crash) then that data is preserved for Tesla to then access whether this is then done remotely or not I don't know.
The data that is sent to Tesla is meant to be anonymous or at least not identifiable as far as their policies go, once exception is when you agree to upload the sentry mode video if the alarm is activated.
There is a guy on twitter that goes deep into the Tesla software and indicates what does and doesn't get uploaded, he also covered the accident data which he recovered on one example and could see a lot of interesting data points.
green (@greentheonly) | Twitter
Rooster6655
Active Member
Yes Tesla certainly stores the data but it is overwritten at some point so they only have access to the latest information if there was for example a crash and I believe it might require actually being in physical possession of the car to recover some aspects.
Its meant to be, that is Tesla 'policy' but who knows
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