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Ownership journal: living with a used P85D

Djsmooth56

Member
Nov 15, 2020
7
4
Ada, MI
Curious, because have looked at and almost bought the same car, but with high miles at 145K, what concerns would everyone have with a car of that age and miles? (its a 2015 P85D)
 

D6LC

Member
Oct 8, 2020
54
52
MN
Curious, because have looked at and almost bought the same car, but with high miles at 145K, what concerns would everyone have with a car of that age and miles? (its a 2015 P85D)
You could argue that a Tesla with the extended motor and battery warranty is a better high mile bet than an ICE, as with any car higher miles will mean higher risks of wear on suspension components etc. If the car is priced attractively and has a good history then as long as you factor in a budget for repairs it could be worth a punt.
From what I remember when I was looking for my car was that it didn't seem that values dropped off as much on high mile Tesla's as they do for other premium ICE cars.
 

D6LC

Member
Oct 8, 2020
54
52
MN
Latest update to my car, I noticed that the passenger front door handle wasn’t presenting when touched. Pretty obvious why on removing the handle
D532F9EC-8243-48D3-ACD5-A431126B6120.jpeg

F48625AC-3BDE-42A3-BF47-1AFF39F3F553.jpeg

it looks like the vapor barrier had fallen off exposing the wiring, then the window clasp mechanism then basically ripped all the wiring out.
I couldn’t find anyone selling the sensor and didn’t fancy the price of a complete new one, so purchased one off eBay with a broken gear. Removed the handle and sensor and fitted it to mine. Refitted the vapor barrier, as a tip heat the mastic seal with a hair dryer to soften it and make it stickier, it will then adhere much better.
So fixed for $95 all in.
 
Dec 7, 2019
218
149
Toronto
Latest update to my car, I noticed that the passenger front door handle wasn’t presenting when touched. Pretty obvious why on removing the handle
View attachment 635127
View attachment 635128
it looks like the vapor barrier had fallen off exposing the wiring, then the window clasp mechanism then basically ripped all the wiring out.
I couldn’t find anyone selling the sensor and didn’t fancy the price of a complete new one, so purchased one off eBay with a broken gear. Removed the handle and sensor and fitted it to mine. Refitted the vapor barrier, as a tip heat the mastic seal with a hair dryer to soften it and make it stickier, it will then adhere much better.
So fixed for $95 all in.

Yep. Tesla replaced both my front door handles (2015 p85d) with the rev 2 door handle. The rubber seal typically goes and comes loose (as well as the microswitch) on the originals. Mine was leaving black streaks all down my windows.
 
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beatle

Active Member
Aug 31, 2019
1,032
502
Springfield, VA
Mine has been fine, though it hasn't really been super cold this year. Just the usual range decrease due to temperature and the annoyance of not always having full regen to start. If I don't need the range and the battery heater isn't already on, I sometimes turn on Ludicrous+ mode to get it over the 66F no-regen hump.
 

D6LC

Member
Oct 8, 2020
54
52
MN
As noted by others it’s been bitterly cold here recently and it seems to have taken its toll on my battery, on Saturday I got the “Replace 12v battery soon” or words to that effect. After testing it showed 12.6v which isn’t bad so decided to give it a full charge first before replacing it.
Process is pretty simple
1. Open the frunk and wind down the drivers window, power down the car from the touchscreen.
2. Remove the frunk trim, frunk carpet and tub
3. Remove the cabin filter housing to gain access to the First Responder Loop
4. Disconnect the loop and wait a few minutes.
5. Remove the 12v negative terminal
6. Charge the battery with a quality cycle charger.

I left mine on charge for 72 hrs and the charger showed it was fully charged. Fitting is the reversal of the above and it cleared my warning. I’ll post an update if this doesn’t work.
 

dark cloud

Active Member
Apr 14, 2018
1,934
2,184
BC
Yes, but from what I have read to clear the warning you need to disconnect the battery

Okay, don't know about that part. I wonder if a simple reboot would reset it. I bought this car used 3 years ago and haven't needed a 12V battery yet so no personal experience with replacing it, other than when I had it drop to 5.6 v while taking out the MCU. It survived :)
 

D6LC

Member
Oct 8, 2020
54
52
MN
An update on the front DU seals leaking, the car went into the SC today and they replaced both seals and the RH axle under the DU warranty. I had booked the car in to check the leaks and had asked a few times whether it was covered, if not I would have done the job myself. However they confirmed that it would be covered. Whilst in I had them replace the desicant bag, as I couldn't find a DIY and some had commented that it was a dealer only repair that cost me $260.

They gave me a model 3 LR loaner, it was the first time I had driven a M3, I enjoyed it, a few comments below:
1. There is a lot of tire noise compared to a MS, and both my car and this M# were both running snow tires
2. Slightly less wind noise than my car
3. Ride quality isnt as refined as the MS, bumps thud through the M3 more than an MS
4. M3 feels a lot more agile and sportier than the MS, no surprise there
5. Amazingly efficient running ~220-240Wh/mile, where in similar conditions (Its been nice and warm lately) my MS runs around 280-300 Wh/mile
6. Have to love a 300 mile range
7. After 200 miles, still struggling to get used to the center display and controls

Overall I really wanted to like the car and expected that it would be my next car, however I just made me miss the ride comfort and compliance of my MS. It also had FSD and maybe I didn't have it setup right in the options, in fact I am pretty sure I didn't as it was awful to the point of dangerous and for me didnt work. Love to try it again and experience it as I am sure it works better than that. It made my AP1 Autopilot feel great :)
 
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