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P100D Salvage in England
- Thread starter Jagman1961
- Start date
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- Model X
Hi Jayson - since you asked Karen was the previous owner - I will be deleting her details and changing the name once I've worked out how.
One note - if you do have an accident in your Tesla then make sure you erase all your personal info and addresses as well as SatNav trip info , obviously her accident will have been traumatic and the car will have been towed to the service centre for insurance appraisal - but when declared salvage steps should have been taken to delete info before the car entered the grubby world of vehicle breakers and salvage.
The 'Home' icon reveals her house address and 'Work' her office, schools and regular appointments can all be seen - I even believe (in countries where it's allowed ) that I can tell the car to drive me 'Home' and it will take me to her house and perhaps park up in her garage !?
So think when you put such data into any device how secure it is , in this case pretty secure as you need the key fob?
Another thing - I'm not sure but the power usage log makes me think she was being persued by Zombies in an Appache assault helicopter - or something similar , these things are like tachographs , and dash cams ,what do you do if you were hoofing it and cause an accident - just thinking.
Charging today - see if I can get battery into double figures with my 9 Amps of NotsoSupercharge lead.
Serious thought has now to be given as to whether this vehicle is worth repairing .
If put back to original spec with parts from breakers , new air bags all round as well as seat belt tensioners, huge windscreen cost, and usual Bodyshop and paint costs this will probably end up having cost me £50k - £55k.
Some have said it would be best to get Tesla to re certify the car - this is never going to happen - they're only going to do that if they do all the work at their approved shop, and this will come to more than the new value of the car, it will have been them who will have quoted for repair ( who else can ? ) and who will have put the 'total loss' notice on the car .
I keep my cars along time - 10 years in many cases and they eventually die on me , so I'm not doing this for a quick profit .
I wouldn't feel safe in selling the car anyway (even with my knowledge of building cars) as without Teslas clean bill of health as there would always be room for litigation in today's claim culture should a new owner have an accident in it.
Looking at prices for parts I could make a packet breaking it.
Perhaps I should complete the running chassis , test it thoroughly , and make a special ? I really don't like the Falcon doors - too complex , and for what? They're just waiting to go wrong and cause problems.
Watch this space.
One note - if you do have an accident in your Tesla then make sure you erase all your personal info and addresses as well as SatNav trip info , obviously her accident will have been traumatic and the car will have been towed to the service centre for insurance appraisal - but when declared salvage steps should have been taken to delete info before the car entered the grubby world of vehicle breakers and salvage.
The 'Home' icon reveals her house address and 'Work' her office, schools and regular appointments can all be seen - I even believe (in countries where it's allowed ) that I can tell the car to drive me 'Home' and it will take me to her house and perhaps park up in her garage !?
So think when you put such data into any device how secure it is , in this case pretty secure as you need the key fob?
Another thing - I'm not sure but the power usage log makes me think she was being persued by Zombies in an Appache assault helicopter - or something similar , these things are like tachographs , and dash cams ,what do you do if you were hoofing it and cause an accident - just thinking.
Charging today - see if I can get battery into double figures with my 9 Amps of NotsoSupercharge lead.
Serious thought has now to be given as to whether this vehicle is worth repairing .
If put back to original spec with parts from breakers , new air bags all round as well as seat belt tensioners, huge windscreen cost, and usual Bodyshop and paint costs this will probably end up having cost me £50k - £55k.
Some have said it would be best to get Tesla to re certify the car - this is never going to happen - they're only going to do that if they do all the work at their approved shop, and this will come to more than the new value of the car, it will have been them who will have quoted for repair ( who else can ? ) and who will have put the 'total loss' notice on the car .
I keep my cars along time - 10 years in many cases and they eventually die on me , so I'm not doing this for a quick profit .
I wouldn't feel safe in selling the car anyway (even with my knowledge of building cars) as without Teslas clean bill of health as there would always be room for litigation in today's claim culture should a new owner have an accident in it.
Looking at prices for parts I could make a packet breaking it.
Perhaps I should complete the running chassis , test it thoroughly , and make a special ? I really don't like the Falcon doors - too complex , and for what? They're just waiting to go wrong and cause problems.
Watch this space.
Hey @Jagman1961 since you have "Karen's" address. Why dont you send her a letter and ask if she has the 2nd key?
Also since you ask about the pyro fuse. Think of is a an explosive non reset saftey link. Its connected across the large high current terminals. Untill the srs ecm sends out crash signal.
This sets of the ignitor and small charge, forcing the link to disconnect in milliseconds.
Also since you ask about the pyro fuse. Think of is a an explosive non reset saftey link. Its connected across the large high current terminals. Untill the srs ecm sends out crash signal.
This sets of the ignitor and small charge, forcing the link to disconnect in milliseconds.
Hi Drewflux - thanks for that - I had thought something like that and the 21W bulb across it's larger terminals has enabled it temporarily to allow charging whilst limitting current in case there's shorting issues.
Judging by the size of the two wires it bridges there isn't a lot of power handled by it.
As for 'Karen' I've been debating contacting her since 'Excessive One' (her name for it not mine) was 'Orphaned' and 'cast out' from the Tesla familly.
It leaves my car vulnerable with only one fob - I don't know whether you need Teslas G3 for the ability to tie the vehicle access to your mobile phone? Anyone?
Some people mentioned not needing Teslas network connection for the other function as you can simply link the car to your own phone ( via bluetooth?) and use its access.
Tesla aren't going to help so I may as well send a nice letter, if that doesn't work then there's bound to be a liason/triste/rendezvous/dark secret in all that data I can 'allude' to - not to mention the 'Ludicrous' power usage. Why stop at the fob, there must have been a nice charger lead supplied with it and a hand book???? Ha - just kidding.
I'm sending off for the V5 ( title document ) today as the salvage company did't forward one and I need to ensure the insurance category and whether it needs an engineering inspection to get it back on the road. They kept the number plates too , which aren't personalised, which is a nuisance.
Judging by the size of the two wires it bridges there isn't a lot of power handled by it.
As for 'Karen' I've been debating contacting her since 'Excessive One' (her name for it not mine) was 'Orphaned' and 'cast out' from the Tesla familly.
It leaves my car vulnerable with only one fob - I don't know whether you need Teslas G3 for the ability to tie the vehicle access to your mobile phone? Anyone?
Some people mentioned not needing Teslas network connection for the other function as you can simply link the car to your own phone ( via bluetooth?) and use its access.
Tesla aren't going to help so I may as well send a nice letter, if that doesn't work then there's bound to be a liason/triste/rendezvous/dark secret in all that data I can 'allude' to - not to mention the 'Ludicrous' power usage. Why stop at the fob, there must have been a nice charger lead supplied with it and a hand book???? Ha - just kidding.
I'm sending off for the V5 ( title document ) today as the salvage company did't forward one and I need to ensure the insurance category and whether it needs an engineering inspection to get it back on the road. They kept the number plates too , which aren't personalised, which is a nuisance.
Unfortunatly you will need tesla GB to put it in you name for app access. Although having said that, more than one way to skin a cat.
2). A nice used charge cable would come in handy too. Could probly get it cheap Since its not attached to vehicle, most likely would have not been handed over to insurances company.
2). A nice used charge cable would come in handy too. Could probly get it cheap Since its not attached to vehicle, most likely would have not been handed over to insurances company.
Jays200
Member
Wall charger, mobile charger included with vehicle purchase.
No traditional hardcopy manual. There is an electronic manual at the bottom left of the "settings" tab.
pm me if you have trouble and I'll see what I can do.
No traditional hardcopy manual. There is an electronic manual at the bottom left of the "settings" tab.
pm me if you have trouble and I'll see what I can do.
The car is mostly aluminium, so bear that in mind when thinking about those door repairs.
Would seriously consider getting it recertified by Tesla when the time is right. They will do it and the benefit of being certified is access to their services, supercharging etc. Also not sure if it will be a requirement for insurance - not heard of many people in the UK doing what you are doing, so not sure what the broader impact of not being certified would be.
Saying that, there are some people on here who specialise in getting salvage cars in the US back on the road.
You can do a full "factory reset" of the system to remove the previous owner's personal info. Surprised this wasn't done during the accident assessment but there you go.
Finally, if you haven't already done so, you might want to remove the SIM card to disable remote access while you are working on the car.
Would seriously consider getting it recertified by Tesla when the time is right. They will do it and the benefit of being certified is access to their services, supercharging etc. Also not sure if it will be a requirement for insurance - not heard of many people in the UK doing what you are doing, so not sure what the broader impact of not being certified would be.
Saying that, there are some people on here who specialise in getting salvage cars in the US back on the road.
You can do a full "factory reset" of the system to remove the previous owner's personal info. Surprised this wasn't done during the accident assessment but there you go.
Finally, if you haven't already done so, you might want to remove the SIM card to disable remote access while you are working on the car.
Hey Jagman1961,
Why don’t you become a certified Tesla Body Shop? In the USA the approved shops have lots of work and can charge top Dollar. I am sure there can’t be many of those in the UK yet. Would be a good addition to your current services. From the pictures your car appears to be fixable so once done I would put it thru the TESLA recertification process.
Good Luck from an Ex Londoner!
Why don’t you become a certified Tesla Body Shop? In the USA the approved shops have lots of work and can charge top Dollar. I am sure there can’t be many of those in the UK yet. Would be a good addition to your current services. From the pictures your car appears to be fixable so once done I would put it thru the TESLA recertification process.
Good Luck from an Ex Londoner!
Thanks J1mbo - the car is all aluminium (except for whats plastic) on the body and chasis side. What's more it's in a fully work hardened state which means you cannot reform or straighten it , unless there's a surface scratch or dent to be filled it's going to need a replacement every time.
As for recertifying Tesla will not even look at the car, discuss parts or talk to me on the subject whatsoever, like I said Catch 22, at the moment their stance is that any category of insurance claim/salvage = Buy a New car on the insurance, whatever the normal market economics of doing so would be.
You can read this to be the case in USA too and many vehicles are being categorised as uneconomical repair because there's only one repairer and only one spares source - and that's Tesla, if they say it's £50 to £60,000 to repair a £70,000 car to their standards and at their parts and labour rates, then it just doesn't stack up. Look up american word 'Graft' - it's often used to describe Teslas policy.
Soon insurers will not want to touch these cars for this reason, premiums for Teslas' will rocket, cars which are readilly repairable , with bolt on panels and good parts availability etc tend to be lower insurance rates for this reason.(ok Model X has bolt on front wings)
On the other hand Tesla need 'rocket scientist's qualified in both TiG Alloy and high power inverter resistance spot welding ( with hugely expensive equipment) to even be approved for such work, one reason there's a shortage here and in America , this makes long repair delays and even higher loan car payouts - eg 3 months worth.
If the insurance company couldn't or wouldn't pay out Tesla's rates for the repair of this 8 month old , 10 thousand mile , £130,000 car ,then I'm not going to be able to.
Not many people in the UK have come across Tesla's , let alone damaged ones but the UK salvage ratings and repair system has been going a long time with good safeguards for the seriously damaged vehicles, cat C for example must have engineering reports made on the rapairs before the log book is reissued.
Cat D is usually uneconomic repair in that a car may only be worth £1500 and be mint, before someone graffitid it and broke its windows, no workshop can paint a car for £1000 these days.
The American Youtube repairers are great - most doing it for the challenge it seems, some of those cars are good for parts only and those are stripped, some would take too long for even a normal garage to repair cost effectively and some have nearly nothing wrong.
What they all have in common is Tesla's unique policy of abandonment and so there's no choice.
When the warrantees start running out things may have to change - or perhaps everyone will have to buy new Tesla's?
As for recertifying Tesla will not even look at the car, discuss parts or talk to me on the subject whatsoever, like I said Catch 22, at the moment their stance is that any category of insurance claim/salvage = Buy a New car on the insurance, whatever the normal market economics of doing so would be.
You can read this to be the case in USA too and many vehicles are being categorised as uneconomical repair because there's only one repairer and only one spares source - and that's Tesla, if they say it's £50 to £60,000 to repair a £70,000 car to their standards and at their parts and labour rates, then it just doesn't stack up. Look up american word 'Graft' - it's often used to describe Teslas policy.
Soon insurers will not want to touch these cars for this reason, premiums for Teslas' will rocket, cars which are readilly repairable , with bolt on panels and good parts availability etc tend to be lower insurance rates for this reason.(ok Model X has bolt on front wings)
On the other hand Tesla need 'rocket scientist's qualified in both TiG Alloy and high power inverter resistance spot welding ( with hugely expensive equipment) to even be approved for such work, one reason there's a shortage here and in America , this makes long repair delays and even higher loan car payouts - eg 3 months worth.
If the insurance company couldn't or wouldn't pay out Tesla's rates for the repair of this 8 month old , 10 thousand mile , £130,000 car ,then I'm not going to be able to.
Not many people in the UK have come across Tesla's , let alone damaged ones but the UK salvage ratings and repair system has been going a long time with good safeguards for the seriously damaged vehicles, cat C for example must have engineering reports made on the rapairs before the log book is reissued.
Cat D is usually uneconomic repair in that a car may only be worth £1500 and be mint, before someone graffitid it and broke its windows, no workshop can paint a car for £1000 these days.
The American Youtube repairers are great - most doing it for the challenge it seems, some of those cars are good for parts only and those are stripped, some would take too long for even a normal garage to repair cost effectively and some have nearly nothing wrong.
What they all have in common is Tesla's unique policy of abandonment and so there's no choice.
When the warrantees start running out things may have to change - or perhaps everyone will have to buy new Tesla's?
That's not at all how it works (at least in the US). Tesla doesn't do body work at all. They don't set the labor rates of the body shops. Sure they set the spare parts prices, but that's the same as every manufacture. For some cars there are non-OEM sources for some parts, and someday that may happen for Tesla's too, but that has nothing at all to do with Tesla. The aluminum used by Tesla is the same alloy as used by most car makers these days for Audi to Ford. And yes its fully work hardened, that's going to happen when you form a panel.
I'm not saying its a great situation, the fact that Tesla won't sell some parts at all, and will only sell a lot of parts to verified non-salvage owners or body shops is BS. Its ridiculous that they won't touch a car that's been repair without you going through the ridiculously expensive 'approval' process.
Thanks Joshib - I've enough on with the E-Type bodyshell backlog , plus we've been doing these and the MG T-series for 30 years now and finally got the hang of it.
More manufacturers are producing ali cars these days starting with Jaguar so the repair techniques and problems are probably not unique to Tesla - it's just that Jag, landrover, Audi etc. have long term established parts and service networks and a history of logistical support, if Tesla maintain this stance and don't get the service side sorted then I predict they will be washed away by the first mainstream manufactured electric vehicle - be it Jags' E - Pace or some other.
I had a Blackberry - it was brilliant, innovative,groundbreaking, stole a lead in technology and I loved it - but then they had the Curve model and these had reliability issues, just when the competition were catching up - the rest is history as they say!
More manufacturers are producing ali cars these days starting with Jaguar so the repair techniques and problems are probably not unique to Tesla - it's just that Jag, landrover, Audi etc. have long term established parts and service networks and a history of logistical support, if Tesla maintain this stance and don't get the service side sorted then I predict they will be washed away by the first mainstream manufactured electric vehicle - be it Jags' E - Pace or some other.
I had a Blackberry - it was brilliant, innovative,groundbreaking, stole a lead in technology and I loved it - but then they had the Curve model and these had reliability issues, just when the competition were catching up - the rest is history as they say!
Hi Jaguar36 - why Jaguar36??? I'm getting my threads twisted here - appologies. Just replied to Joshib about alloys in cars.
I think there are probably 3 or 4 Tesla approved body repair shops in the UK, over here they sell new cars from shopping malls and not the showrooms with attached workshops for service work that you get with most outfits from Ford to Fiat, so they are quirky.
I was grumbling a bit - sorry! We used to make our own sports cars and I can entirely see how these compound alloy superstructures, using extrusion, fine diecasting and press techniques do need special scrutiny after a crash - espacially on such high performance vehicles.
Lotus Elise comes to mind - fifteen/twenty years ago they pioneered this kind of chassis ( thinks = Tesla Roadster) and again people like me rushed to buy 'cheap' salvage cars with a ' little suspension damage' - only to find the aircraft glued and weld assembly techniques were strictly for production - not for repair. But at least Collin Chapman (lotus) would sell anything - to anyone and parts all could be bought and all Lotus dealers could fix them with reasonable time scales.
Dysons' had a similar approach to their early vacuum cleaners in that ,with factories just like Tesla's unmanned robot assembly lines , they produced good efficient machines - trouble was although you could buy parts, belts etc,for pennies, no one could fit then in less than 12 hours! machine assembly great - manual dissassembly and reassembly - not too great.
What we don't have as yet is a super robot dissassembly line to strip the cars efficiently, swap out the bad bits and reassemble them.
Maybe too much resource is going into the next new product and next launch and things are backing up a bit so they're spitting the grissly bits and hard stuff out? You know, kind of scrap it, that way no one will pick up on the fact we haven't a clue how to fix these since we used an ex Dyson guy to design production line ??? Ho Humm.
I think the new £30,000 Tesla will be great and a real market changer - perhaps the Worlds' first , the Model 'T' Ford of EV's , and that will certainly be a fixed cost, fixed term, throw away when it breaks or batteries run out vehicle.
I think there are probably 3 or 4 Tesla approved body repair shops in the UK, over here they sell new cars from shopping malls and not the showrooms with attached workshops for service work that you get with most outfits from Ford to Fiat, so they are quirky.
I was grumbling a bit - sorry! We used to make our own sports cars and I can entirely see how these compound alloy superstructures, using extrusion, fine diecasting and press techniques do need special scrutiny after a crash - espacially on such high performance vehicles.
Lotus Elise comes to mind - fifteen/twenty years ago they pioneered this kind of chassis ( thinks = Tesla Roadster) and again people like me rushed to buy 'cheap' salvage cars with a ' little suspension damage' - only to find the aircraft glued and weld assembly techniques were strictly for production - not for repair. But at least Collin Chapman (lotus) would sell anything - to anyone and parts all could be bought and all Lotus dealers could fix them with reasonable time scales.
Dysons' had a similar approach to their early vacuum cleaners in that ,with factories just like Tesla's unmanned robot assembly lines , they produced good efficient machines - trouble was although you could buy parts, belts etc,for pennies, no one could fit then in less than 12 hours! machine assembly great - manual dissassembly and reassembly - not too great.
What we don't have as yet is a super robot dissassembly line to strip the cars efficiently, swap out the bad bits and reassemble them.
Maybe too much resource is going into the next new product and next launch and things are backing up a bit so they're spitting the grissly bits and hard stuff out? You know, kind of scrap it, that way no one will pick up on the fact we haven't a clue how to fix these since we used an ex Dyson guy to design production line ??? Ho Humm.
I think the new £30,000 Tesla will be great and a real market changer - perhaps the Worlds' first , the Model 'T' Ford of EV's , and that will certainly be a fixed cost, fixed term, throw away when it breaks or batteries run out vehicle.
The airbag reconditioners have advised me they can refill and reset the airbags/seat belt tensioners and supply a reset control unit for reasonable money. Only problem is where someone has cut out the steering wheel and side curtain bags - replacements will be needed as these are ruined, probably the salvage yard as the accident didn't warrant this.
The front end is as stripped as it needs to be, even with the front grille unit unplugged and detached it can still be charged though I don't do this whilst working on it. I've no need to go near anything high voltage.
There's a steel (black painted) impact bar with a polystyrene cover across the front as an impact absorber, this is undamaged. The steel mounting bracket for this on the damaged side is bent but can be reformed ok, as can a small lugg on its lower edge.
The bar is only bridges the width between the large (silver) front chassis rails so there's only the flimsy wing, a high density plastic corner piece ,then the wheel itself and the suspension to take any impact either side of this - hence the mess on my vehicle.
Of course any impact on the suspension wheel forces it back into the door .... Yep - it gets messy and expensive.
Personally I can't see why this front impact been couldn't be full width as per most vehicles and maybe designed to bend at the edges outwards of the main chassis legs if hit hard, causing a deflection rather than allowing forces to act along the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.
On inspecting the undamaged suspension I noticed a loose steering rack adjuster nut, first photo, no idea why this should be so. Obviously the cars' been recovered to a workshop for insurance assessment and it's obvious which parts they've dismantled to inspect around the Frunk area but there's nothing outside of this been meddled with . Odd.
I've had tracking well out of adjustment on rebuilt cars before now and it drastically affects their steering/handling, I wonder when it was last serviced? Track/steering adjustments are usual on first services as the suspension has settled. My mother once had her new car returned from its first service with a very loose steering wheel - in fact when I checked it for her and pulled back on it the thing came off. It appears some idiot adjusted the tracking, then had to re-centre the steering wheel on the column splines but simply forgot to run the nut back on and tighten it - just popped the cover back over the wheel centre !
My letter to the previous owner is getting longer and more complicated ;
- Dear Mrs XXXXX - You don't know me but I have your wrecked Tesla, do you have the spare fob? Oh and the charging adapters? I do hope you and your familly are ok? speaking of familly - is your husband mechanically minded? How are things between you these days??? Nope - best stick to the basics.
Now for some hard thinking and calculations as to how much the parts bill plus paint is going to come to and decide whether this project is worth putting back on the road or to break for parts.
I look at the amount of problems new owners are having and how these would put me off the road ( as an outcast vehicle with no hope of being read tinted to the Tesla familly (Sob!).) without SC backup.
OT:
Thanks for doing this Jagman.
Otherwise, these will be throw away cars.
Can't have that.
We need to know how to fix them.
*
The Hughes Special: Jason Hughes on Twitter
"Tesla Inside"
Orange youglad he did that?
Heh.
Jagman, you seem like the perfect app for that Mr Hughes Neon Black Box.
Also, an incredibly interesting guy, well done sir.
I really admire High end motorheads.
*
Cultural notes;
In the US, NFL lingo, a JAG is "Just a Guy"
A walkon, Scrub. Tackling dummy. A bum.
Article from either Road and Track (likely) or Car and Driver, years ago.
Author spoke of a Jaguar repair. Referred to the manual:
"Step one, remove engine".
"Now back to our regular programing"
Thanks for doing this Jagman.
Otherwise, these will be throw away cars.
Can't have that.
We need to know how to fix them.
*
The Hughes Special: Jason Hughes on Twitter
"Tesla Inside"
Orange youglad he did that?
Heh.
Jagman, you seem like the perfect app for that Mr Hughes Neon Black Box.
Also, an incredibly interesting guy, well done sir.
I really admire High end motorheads.
*
Cultural notes;
In the US, NFL lingo, a JAG is "Just a Guy"
A walkon, Scrub. Tackling dummy. A bum.
Article from either Road and Track (likely) or Car and Driver, years ago.
Author spoke of a Jaguar repair. Referred to the manual:
"Step one, remove engine".
"Now back to our regular programing"
Thanks for the Hughes info - I will check out his project further this evening.
I've a friend half a mile from me who's a Model S in similar condition so it will be interesting to see if it can be salvaged from 'The Grim ( parts ) Reaper' with the same set up. He's already bought the mechanical parts but has left it to go flat - or it was flat when he bought it, and I'm chasing him to get some power into it and check systems out before he spends any more on parts.
Another thing - does anyone know if the impact sensors (accelerometers?) which trigger the airbags are single use and need replacing after being triggered or are they solid state items as per the ones in iPhones which give an output dependant on force applied which is interpreted by the control unit - which then fires off the airbags?
Again my friend is ahead of me and his exchange repaired airbags and newly reset controller are being fitted next week - I've told him to check on how they're triggered before he puts power to the car again - he will look pretty sick if the airbags deploy immediately the 12v battery is connected.
I've a friend half a mile from me who's a Model S in similar condition so it will be interesting to see if it can be salvaged from 'The Grim ( parts ) Reaper' with the same set up. He's already bought the mechanical parts but has left it to go flat - or it was flat when he bought it, and I'm chasing him to get some power into it and check systems out before he spends any more on parts.
Another thing - does anyone know if the impact sensors (accelerometers?) which trigger the airbags are single use and need replacing after being triggered or are they solid state items as per the ones in iPhones which give an output dependant on force applied which is interpreted by the control unit - which then fires off the airbags?
Again my friend is ahead of me and his exchange repaired airbags and newly reset controller are being fitted next week - I've told him to check on how they're triggered before he puts power to the car again - he will look pretty sick if the airbags deploy immediately the 12v battery is connected.
@Jagman1961 most air bag units are triggered the same . You need input from the external crash sensor/s (g force sensor) to deploy. Most crash sensors are self resetting. They are a surprisingly simple device.
The vehicle shouldnt be able to deploy whilst sitting still.
The vehicle shouldnt be able to deploy whilst sitting still.
Thanks Drewflux - I will investigate the pair of black plastic things - one attached to either side of the front crossmember.
I'd been thought this was a temperature thermistor until I found the second one and realised it was positioned symmetrically to its twin, on a good surface for detecting shock.
Surprisingly simple? Like a glass tube filled with mercury/quicksilver or a magnetic ball in a contact ring - old school?
These are pretty compact and probably solid state, I will get a part number off one of them.
Fortunately there aren't too many bits missing or smashed to a pulp and further scrutiny of the undamaged side of the vehicle may eliminate the other 'loose ends' of wiring harness.
Thanks
I'd been thought this was a temperature thermistor until I found the second one and realised it was positioned symmetrically to its twin, on a good surface for detecting shock.
Surprisingly simple? Like a glass tube filled with mercury/quicksilver or a magnetic ball in a contact ring - old school?
These are pretty compact and probably solid state, I will get a part number off one of them.
Fortunately there aren't too many bits missing or smashed to a pulp and further scrutiny of the undamaged side of the vehicle may eliminate the other 'loose ends' of wiring harness.
Thanks
