Are you talking about the metal springy things that were on the stock pads? Or something else?
The flat metal shim that covers most of the back of the pad. The little extra thickness aids in keeping the outer pad from rattling around.
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Are you talking about the metal springy things that were on the stock pads? Or something else?
The flat metal shim that covers most of the back of the pad. The little extra thickness aids in keeping the outer pad from rattling around.
Hmm...I either didn't have one of those or didn't notice it. Dumped the stock pads a few weeks ago so I guess I won't be finding out either
***PSA***
You can retract or extend the EPB piston by hooking up 12v power source to the contacts inside of the plug of the EPB motor. On the Performance red caliper the plug is square on one side. To retract the inner piston, connect (-) ground to the contact close to the square side while connect (+) to the contact at the round end of the plug. To extend the inner piston, switch the polarity. There is no auto stop on the motor, so pay attention to the sound of the motor when it is at end of its travel on retraction. Break the circuit when you hear the sound change.
Cool. Adding a 9V with leads to the track tool kit.Just to add to this PSA, a standard household 9v battery works as a power source to retract the piston using this method.
It is worth mentioning, however, that if you are replacing worn pads with new this usually doesn't work since the pistons only retract a small amount when using Tow Mode.I know this is an old but great thread. I found no need to use the 9v battery method. Goe to the service memory and pu the car in park then hit the tow mode button. The only catch is that you have about 18 mins before the alarm goes off. but being well organized I did it in two hits per wheel. had abot 8 mins over at each stage.
Perhaps retracting the rear pistons as well?It runs abs pump. If air is there you can only take it out by running the pump. Either through the service or by activating it on the road.
By cleanest I meant to say most propper wayNo, not retracting it.
Cleanest is to do it at the service center, but they will use oem fluid only. Less clean - pump and bleed counterclockwise from furthest to closest caliper to the driver, run the street with a few abs engagements and repeat again.
My answer still stands. I have a pressure pump and top cap that fits it, but I found it harder to use.By cleanest I meant to say most propper way
At home with few abs engagement on street doesn’t sound that bad
Do you guys use pressure pump with top cap that screw on the brake fluid reservoir all the time?
So in your opinion easiest way is to do it line by line without pressure pump and top cap + abs triggering on street?My answer still stands. I have a pressure pump and top cap that fits it, but I found it harder to use.
Yes, thats my suggestion. I don't use my pressure pump with a cap at all and i dont have service tools, so that's what I do.So in your opinion easiest way is to do it line by line without pressure pump and top cap + abs triggering on street?
I'm trying to make a game plan what tools/supplies to get and start playing around. sorry if asking too much
Same. There was a guy on the forum who seemingly damaged his brake booster bleeding the system the old-fashioned way, so I think a pressure bleeder is preferred.I use a pressure pump and bleed that way. It's how the Tesla service manual says to do it. Works great.
A few ABS stops beforehand to get any air out of the system.