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P3 Brake Job

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Hmm...I either didn't have one of those or didn't notice it. Dumped the stock pads a few weeks ago so I guess I won't be finding out either :(
They were very well attached to the pad, and required patience, a sharp blade, elbow grease, and a beer.
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***PSA***

You can retract or extend the EPB piston by hooking up 12v power source to the contacts inside of the plug of the EPB motor. On the Performance red caliper the plug is square on one side. To retract the inner piston, connect (-) ground to the contact close to the square side while connect (+) to the contact at the round end of the plug. To extend the inner piston, switch the polarity. There is no auto stop on the motor, so pay attention to the sound of the motor when it is at end of its travel on retraction. Break the circuit when you hear the sound change.

Just to add to this PSA, a standard household 9v battery works as a power source to retract the piston using this method.
 
I know this is an old but great thread. I found no need to use the 9v battery method. Goe to the service memory and pu the car in park then hit the tow mode button. The only catch is that you have about 18 mins before the alarm goes off. but being well organized I did it in two hits per wheel. had abot 8 mins over at each stage.
 
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I know this is an old but great thread. I found no need to use the 9v battery method. Goe to the service memory and pu the car in park then hit the tow mode button. The only catch is that you have about 18 mins before the alarm goes off. but being well organized I did it in two hits per wheel. had abot 8 mins over at each stage.
It is worth mentioning, however, that if you are replacing worn pads with new this usually doesn't work since the pistons only retract a small amount when using Tow Mode.
 
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Interesting. My own pads were a tight fit but they only had 5000 miles in them . So what you say makes sense. Ohbherevisxactest for your wealth of knowledge. Changing all the brake fluid. Since it's all now the same color how much fluid needs to be replaced in each line allowing for performance brakes on front ?
 
Hi guys,
This summer I was trying out my P3 on track and the stock brakes did overheat once or twice, ending up in air in the system.
I've read the servce tesla com site which basically tells me - buy a subscription to perform PROC_ESP_FRONT-L-REAR-R_BRAKE_BLEED attache reservoir with 30psi pressure and open/close bleed nipple on the caliper.

What would be the easiest way to do it without subscription?
I wonder does this PROC_ESP_FRONT-L-REAR-R_BRAKE_BLEED. do anything particular
 
No, not retracting it.

Cleanest is to do it at the service center, but they will use oem fluid only. Less clean - pump and bleed counterclockwise from furthest to closest caliper to the driver, run the street with a few abs engagements and repeat again.
 
No, not retracting it.

Cleanest is to do it at the service center, but they will use oem fluid only. Less clean - pump and bleed counterclockwise from furthest to closest caliper to the driver, run the street with a few abs engagements and repeat again.
By cleanest I meant to say most propper way :)
At home with few abs engagement on street doesn’t sound that bad
Do you guys use pressure pump with top cap that screw on the brake fluid reservoir all the time?
 
So in your opinion easiest way is to do it line by line without pressure pump and top cap + abs triggering on street?
I'm trying to make a game plan what tools/supplies to get and start playing around. sorry if asking too much
Yes, thats my suggestion. I don't use my pressure pump with a cap at all and i dont have service tools, so that's what I do.

I'm using stahlbus Bleeder Valve M10x1.0x16mm (M), steel though to make life easier.
 
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