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P3D+ misc info and pics- wheel weight, calipers, suspension

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This is awesome. I'd love measurements on your suspension height from the wheel cap to the top of the wheel fender. I started a thread on this with my data, and would be great to share.

Suspension Height - P3D vs. P3D+ vs. RWD

Also - my car has similar built weirdness, e.g., screws with no bolts on them in the same places as where you photographed them.

At least they're consistent...

I plan to measure this, but my driveway isn't the most level reference point. Once I can get the car in the garage (broken door) I'll measure the height.
 
Does the non-performance upgrade have this lip too? This is really annoying. I might remove my upgrade now.

I feel like we would have heard about this by now. Shouldn't be too complicated to find a hub centric ring that fits over the lip.

Dang why did they do this? Is the regular non Performance hat rotor thicker? Is this why it’s only on the performance models?

That would be good info to know regarding the depth of the non-p rotor hats.
One thing that I noted is the performance rotor hats have different thicknesses between the front and rear. I guess I should have measured it?
Front:
20180814_050314.jpg

Rear:
20180814_050228.jpg
 
I'll be mounting the wheels later this week. I'll make a thread comparing them to the 20's when I do.

I got 3.48 seconds (w/o rollout) on the stock 20's and a damp road last night at ~85% SoC, with an 11.81sec quarter mile.

I just borrowed a dragy (thanks @P85_DA !), and at 85 deg F, A/C on, tires at a way too high 44/45psi, ran 3.55 and 3.56s. I think state of charge was roughly 75-80%
 
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You'd think the A/C compressor would turn off at full throttle. Not that I know it does in a Tesla, but it sure did in my other cars.

I doubt that there would be a reason to in a Tesla. (I suspect that the battery has enough headroom to be able to output the little bit of power that is needed for the A/C compressor in addition to powering everything else.)

Not to mention that the A/C is used to cool the motor/battery as well as the passengers, so it really is needed in most cases.
 
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Not to mention that the A/C is used to cool the motor/battery as well as the passengers, so it really is needed in most cases.

Turning it off for full throttle is no big deal. Lots of thermal mass in the condenser coils already. Certainly would turn off for less time in a Tesla than a car that needs many more seconds to accelerate.
 
Are you suggesting unlike every other P Tesla , Model 3 doesn't run at battery current limits? When you're at the current limit, any power not going to the motor is overhead.

If only, someone could provide data.


EPA data says the Model 3 P motors are 147 and 211 kW for power. That's 358 kW.

Max discharge on the battery is 370 kW (per hack of a RWD one by ingeneerx whose name I never spell correctly)

We have data. It says there's 12 kW to spare.

I've not seen data on the 3, but that's roughly 5-6 times more power than the AC on the S needs, and is presumably a less efficient system cooling a larger car than the 3. Obviously stuff like lights and the touchscreen and radio need power too, but again it seems like the 3 is not, in fact, battery limited.
 
EPA data says the Model 3 P motors are 147 and 211 kW for power. That's 358 kW.

Max discharge on the battery is 370 kW (per hack of a RWD one by ingeneerx whose name I never spell correctly)

We have data. It says there's 12 kW to spare.

You could lose that 12kW and more by losing a few % SoC or a few degrees temperature, no problem. EPA data is not reliable. Nothing conclusive here.

data = canbus logs. It will be obvious when you're current limited.