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P3D+ misc info and pics- wheel weight, calipers, suspension

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I don't have measurements but I test fitted 19's on mine yesterday and they fit just fine. The 18" Aeros fit on the front but their inner barrel diameter is just a few mm too small to fit over the rears, so I'd imagine most all 19" wheels would fit.

Haven't put these on the car for good yet because there's a lip around the base of the center hub bore that prevents my wheels from mating flush to the surface of the hub (see second and third pic). Not sure if this is specific to just the Performance brakes, but I've ordered 5mm spacers with 70.5mm bore, which should be plenty to clear the ~3mm lip.
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Does the non-performance upgrade have this lip too? This is really annoying. I might remove my upgrade now.

@FlyNavy01 did you test fit the stock 19’s? Do they have the center bored out as well to accommodate the step? Do the back discs/hub have the same step?

Watched a video that shows the regular front disc/hub without performance upgrade and it doesn’t have the same step. Looks like in the vid that if the front discs are thinner it would expose that step. Gotta look for a close up pic.
The other question this poses is whether the 20’s have a different offset than the 19’s.

 
@FlyNavy01 did you test fit the stock 19’s? Do they have the center bored out as well to accommodate the step? Do the back discs/hub have the same step?

Watched a video that shows the regular front disc/hub without performance upgrade and it doesn’t have the same step.
Looks like in the vid that if the front discs are thinner it would expose that step. Gotta look for a close up pic.
The other question this poses is whether the 20’s have a different offset than the 19’s.


Thanks for the video... starting at 26:17 to show the hub detail. :cool:

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@N54TT The offset of the 20s is 35mm.

Yeh found the specs on tsportlines site. The 18 and 19 are both +40 and all are the same width. With all else being equal...and the rotor/wheel mounting surface appearing to be thinner and exposing that few mm lip/step on hub of performance upgrade package cars....makes sense that the 20” is +35mm. That being said...if you run the 20” on non perf upgrade, you should get an extra 5mm poke towards the fender....that you won’t get on a perf upgrade pacakage car when comparing 19 and 20”
 
I don't have measurements but I test fitted 19's on mine yesterday and they fit just fine. The 18" Aeros fit on the front but their inner barrel diameter is just a few mm too small to fit over the rears, so I'd imagine most all 19" wheels would fit.

Haven't put these on the car for good yet because there's a lip around the base of the center hub bore that prevents my wheels from mating flush to the surface of the hub (see second and third pic). Not sure if this is specific to just the Performance brakes, but I've ordered 5mm spacers with 70.5mm bore, which should be plenty to clear the ~3mm lip.
View attachment 325515 View attachment 325516 View attachment 325517

Which spacers are you going with? They'll need to clear the 10mm screw that holds the rotor to the hub. Or maybe it can be left off?
 
Which spacers are you going with? They'll need to clear the 10mm screw that holds the rotor to the hub. Or maybe it can be left off?
I went with these 5mm spacers from Amazon. Only $22 for a set of 4 and they seem to fit just fine (see photo below). I'm still running the 20" wheels without the spacers for another few days, but here's a photo of testing fitting them on the front hubs.

5mm is small enough that it shouldn't create any issues while still clearing that small lip. I'll be leaving the hub bolt on since my aftermarket wheels have back-pad pocketing just like the stock wheels, but you should be able to leave it off without issue.
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I went with these 5mm spacers from Amazon. Only $22 for a set of 4 and they seem to fit just fine (see photo below). I'm still running the 20" wheels without the spacers for another few days, but here's a photo of testing fitting them on the front hubs.

5mm is small enough that it shouldn't create any issues while still clearing that small lip. I'll be leaving the hub bolt on since my aftermarket wheels have back-pad pocketing just like the stock wheels, but you should be able to leave it off without issue.
View attachment 325954
Nice man. I love this forum and the DIY fixes!
 
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Doesn’t that mean it’s not sitting flush? No vibrations?
The stock 20's appear to have a small ring machined around the inner bore of the wheel to account for the lip. I wouldn't drive on any wheels that weren't flush mounted against the wheel hub, so I hope others are aware of this issue before mounting aftermarket wheels to their own Performance Upgrade packages.
 

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You just need wheels with a large enough center bore.
Hub centric rings aren't strictly necessary, the lug nuts are what center the wheel.

While the studs will do a decent enough job centering the wheel on the hub, they will not be perfect.

Without hub centric rings, the weight of your rim will sag on the rotor as you first mount it. Not only will this make replacing wheels more difficult, but it means that the lug nuts must center the wheel, in effect pulling it into its final place. The tighter the fitment between the lug stud and the wheel hole is the less of this problem you will have. With perfectly sized lug holes this is probably no or very minor issue.

I had exactly this problem with my volk racing wheels and with numerous on and off mountings each autocross the perfect cone (or ball, cant remember which) of the wheels became slightly chewed up from expecting the lug nut to center the wheel.

Careless replacement of the wheel makes this worse. If you carefully snug each lug nut before tightening any of them like you should the problem will be even less of an issue. Needless to say I learned my lesson about snugging then tightening.
 
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I went with these 5mm spacers from Amazon. Only $22 for a set of 4 and they seem to fit just fine (see photo below). I'm still running the 20" wheels without the spacers for another few days, but here's a photo of testing fitting them on the front hubs.

5mm is small enough that it shouldn't create any issues while still clearing that small lip. I'll be leaving the hub bolt on since my aftermarket wheels have back-pad pocketing just like the stock wheels, but you should be able to leave it off without issue.
View attachment 325954

Did you measure the height of that lip? From your picture, it almost looks like a 3mm spacer would clear it.