P85 rear air spring module disassembly or exchange with newer version?

[SSedan]

Thank you some great info here

 

[K_KCB]

Have anyone tried sourcing the shock with the metal collar? I did a search based on "f4-BE5-K420-W0" and it doesn't appear it has the o-ring bracket.

 

[davidc18]

I was never able to find just the shock. Tesla wants 900 each for replacements.

 

[jcpetit]

And for reference, here are the measurements from the various components for the rear shocks. I do not know if they are the same for the fronts. Please note these are from a 6006353-00-C air spring assembly.
Bottom Seal
Shock body OD: 50 mm
Sleeve ID: 57.5 mm
O-Ring diameter: 5 mm
Therefore the O-ring is a 50 mm ID and 5 mm width

Top Seal
Gland OD: 63 mm
Bore ID: 66 mm
O-Ring diamater: 2 mm
Therefore the O-ring is a 63 mm and 2 mm width

I am also willing to sell sets of the o-rings I have for $10 shipped, that will include 2 lowers and 2 uppers shipped by USPS in a nice envelope to protect from damage.

The specific tools required. These are specific to the disassembly of the spring, not actually getting it out of the car.

• Modified impact socket - needs to have six notches cut. I started with a 1 5/8 inch impact socket and had to trim the outside diameter. I also didn't do a very good job cutting it with my angle grinder, but ultimately it worked. If I was to do it again, I would try the 1 1/4 inch impact socket but there is the risk that you would have to widen out the inner diameter. The second picture below has the socket behind the spring.
• 16mm spark plug socket - Sunex 884504 from Amazon is one option
• 5mm long Hex bit - Capri tools from Amazon is one option
• Alternatively, you could buy a 16mm strut nut socket and use a L-shaped allen key. But the leadtime on these was longer. Schwaben makes one.

Other tools that were not specifically purchased for this job included a half inch breaker bar, anti-rotation bar to hold the spring from rotating and o-ring lube for installation, a 2x4 with a hammer to push up the sleeve over the bottom o-ring, and a torque wrench for tightening everything back up. The top mounting plate does not need to be removed to get out the top seal. The top foam can be slowly pealed off leaving the adhesive backing intact.

Joel

View attachment 609109 View attachment 609110

Hello E30M3,
how is holding your rear shocks after more than one year of repair?

 

[Unplugged|Luke]

And for reference, here are the measurements from the various components for the rear shocks. I do not know if they are the same for the fronts. Please note these are from a 6006353-00-C air spring assembly.
Bottom Seal
Shock body OD: 50 mm
Sleeve ID: 57.5 mm
O-Ring diameter: 5 mm
Therefore the O-ring is a 50 mm ID and 5 mm width

Top Seal
Gland OD: 63 mm
Bore ID: 66 mm
O-Ring diamater: 2 mm
Therefore the O-ring is a 63 mm and 2 mm width

I am also willing to sell sets of the o-rings I have for $10 shipped, that will include 2 lowers and 2 uppers shipped by USPS in a nice envelope to protect from damage.

The specific tools required. These are specific to the disassembly of the spring, not actually getting it out of the car.

• Modified impact socket - needs to have six notches cut. I started with a 1 5/8 inch impact socket and had to trim the outside diameter. I also didn't do a very good job cutting it with my angle grinder, but ultimately it worked. If I was to do it again, I would try the 1 1/4 inch impact socket but there is the risk that you would have to widen out the inner diameter. The second picture below has the socket behind the spring.
• 16mm spark plug socket - Sunex 884504 from Amazon is one option
• 5mm long Hex bit - Capri tools from Amazon is one option
• Alternatively, you could buy a 16mm strut nut socket and use a L-shaped allen key. But the leadtime on these was longer. Schwaben makes one.

Other tools that were not specifically purchased for this job included a half inch breaker bar, anti-rotation bar to hold the spring from rotating and o-ring lube for installation, a 2x4 with a hammer to push up the sleeve over the bottom o-ring, and a torque wrench for tightening everything back up. The top mounting plate does not need to be removed to get out the top seal. The top foam can be slowly pealed off leaving the adhesive backing intact.

Joel

View attachment 609109 View attachment 609110

I am also following up with you to see how the air suspension is holding up with the aftermarket O-rings?

 

[UlrA]

Hi,
I think you'll save me 1100€
Let's clean this shock absorber and replace the O Rings
my 355.000 km car is down in 24h
I'll keep you posted

 

[amiral_sub]

Hi, how did you depressurize the air suspension and how did you pressurize? The tesla service manual indicates that you have to use the toolbox

 

[amiral_sub]

I tried to remove an air strut: I followed each step of the service manual (without the toolbox to depressurize). Car off, jack mode, I lift up the car, removed the air pressure line . Unfortunately I was unable to remove the strut: as soon as I removed the bolt at the back of the strut, the strut pushed as if it was still pressurrised on the lower arm.
It was absolutely impossible to "carefully compress the air spring module and release it from the lower arm"

How did you compress the air spring?

 

[amiral_sub]

I tried to do the same, but it was unsuccessful :

P85+ front air spring module disassembly and repair attempt

Since a few months my lovely 2013 P85+ lowers in 24h: After finding this post P85 rear air spring module disassembly or exchange with newer version? I decided to try to repair my air strut I was unable to remove the air strut from my car because the air strut was still pushing (still air...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[Jillmark99]

The o-rings turned out to be metric based on all the measurements and are standard round cross sections. The bottom looks weird because of the circlip mount on the shock body and the square spacer. I ended up getting Buna-N from McMaster-Carr. The bottom size was available in multiple materials, but the top was only available in Buna-N, which seemed like a good choice based on temp range and chemical compatibility. I had to buy packages of each, so if you are interested I can send some to you.

The top o-ring was 63mm ID, 2mm wide (dia) - PN 1302N057
The bottom o-ring was 50mm ID, 5mm wide (dia) - PN 9262K842

I'll find my notes and add all the measurements to this post for future reference. The lower o-ring seal design is definitely not per the Parker design guidelines and not surprising where it fails. The pictures below are from the unit removed from my car and it was dry but didn't have any obvious defects. So far the car is still holding its ride height after 36 hours, which it would usually start showing a little droop.

Joel

View attachment 608971 View attachment 608972 View attachment 608973

Joel
How long did it take to complete this start to finish? I need to do mine. Is there any tension on any of these components when disassembling?

 

[amiral_sub]

I tried it unsuccessfully P85+ front air spring module disassembly and repair attempt

 

[Gtech]

Not only o-rings of SAS struts will fail because of rust but the air bellows could leak as well, it's just a very poor design.

Unfortunately TAS isn't much better since they also have air leakage issues (and as bonus also the famous rattle)