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P90D - What battery versions should I avoid?
- Thread starter Electricious
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Jashev
Member
Wasn't trying to play down the problem with the 90's. The OP was trying to decide between an 85 and a 90 and I was suggesting that he might be happier with an 85. I recognize the 90 issues and that influenced my purchase. I would hope that Tesla would step up and do something to help rectify the 90 owners' issues.
Avoid AP1 90Ds for battery degradation. My 90% charge is down to 233 miles. Tesla claims this is a normal level of degradation.
ACA Man
Member
ahkahn
Active Member
Question. I am having a very hard time getting my unicorn, a P85DL+ in red or maybe blue. I've been searching for a long time. I'm now considering a P90DL. There are a lot of these cars on EV-CPO but I am wondering if any of these cars would have the V3 battery pack. Are they too old to have them? When do you think the V3 packs will start showing up as CPO's?
V3 Battery Packs
1088790-00-A or
1088792-00-A
The second is a little better can get up too 530kw I believe. I just got a brand new V3 1088792-00-A. Got it to 520kw and gets 271 miles of range on full charge. Gets 2.6 seconds 0-60mph. Had the other v3 before and only lost 3 miles of degradation (268). Have arachnid rims so probably helps being lighter rims too. Been considering selling mine (2016.5 build 8/2016) to get something else to customize. Have 3 options of rims to choose from. Custom powder coated arachnids or turbines, and silver arachnids all staggered with new tires, just had 2 yr service, brand new v3 battery, plus tons of upgrades. Picture of the power tools app showing it at 504kw or 675hp. If interested LMK
1088790-00-A or
1088792-00-A
The second is a little better can get up too 530kw I believe. I just got a brand new V3 1088792-00-A. Got it to 520kw and gets 271 miles of range on full charge. Gets 2.6 seconds 0-60mph. Had the other v3 before and only lost 3 miles of degradation (268). Have arachnid rims so probably helps being lighter rims too. Been considering selling mine (2016.5 build 8/2016) to get something else to customize. Have 3 options of rims to choose from. Custom powder coated arachnids or turbines, and silver arachnids all staggered with new tires, just had 2 yr service, brand new v3 battery, plus tons of upgrades. Picture of the power tools app showing it at 504kw or 675hp. If interested LMK
FYI P90DL with V3 batteries have less battery degradation than any other battery. The 100's degrade more. Just so you know any P85DL, P90DL, P100DL will have more degradation then one's that are not performance w/ludicrous. 100 batteries can degrade more cuz they are maxing out the battery more at 100% SOC then the others. And not charging too full will make your battery degrade more, anyone that knows anything about lithium batteries will know that it is best too full charge and the worst thing you can do is let it go under 10% or even 20% SOC and if you let it die completely it will never get the kw it once did. RC cars have been using lithium batteries forever and when they start to show any slowing down you must stop them and charge to keep from battery damage. Now it's not a perfect comparison but the same applies with cell phones etc. Once you let your cell phone die completely it will never stay charged as long. Also if you run high amps during charge you will also have more degradation. Keep charging too 30 amps and under. For all the battery experts out there that will say otherwise then explain why I have hardly any degradation with my 1st battery and even added 1 mile to my newest battery after 3 days of charging too full.
It was only getting 450kw @100% SOC. Told them I thought there was something wrong with my battery. They setup an appt for me to bring it in. When I showed before they even looked at my car they told me that there was an issue with my battery and that they ordered me a brand new one. They can tell without even having the car. Most ppl including myself would probably have no idea anything was wrong, especially since I had only lost 2-3 miles of range (268). But I had it tested to see how much kw/hp it was pulling and it was around 450kw. So now I'm getting over 500kw even with only 90% SOC and topped at 520kw when tested right after getting the new battery. At first it was getting 270 on full charge but has added 1 mile over the last few days of charging it too full.
henderrj
Active Member
Don't mean to be rude but I don't think you have a good grasp of what's actually going on. Comparing RC systems to a full BMS system just doesn't work. You can't make a battery pack go to zero, or for that matter close to it, in a Tesla. Their BMS won't allow it. Additionally I'd be interested in where you get your data points. The only extensive study of degradation in Tesla batteries that I know of shows that the cars that occasionally supercharged actually have less degradation.
There are a number of articles about heat and dendrites Etc that can tell you a lot. There's a lot of good people to read but it takes a long time. I'm 9 years into this (a patent in charging for electric vehicles) and it is simply not the way that you seem to be presenting it. And we haven't said a thing about the different chemical composition of batteries depending on their purpose. But perhaps I am misunderstanding you.
Comparing RC batteries is actually very similar with regards to what effects lithium batteries in general to degrade overtime. Like I said it's not a perfect comparison but one that can be useful. Most issues with lithium batteries happen either when they are charged too much which causes the battery too swell, weather and over heating, pulling excessive amps (ludicrous) and discharging them too much. There are many different types of lithium batteries;
1.Lithium Cobalt Oxide(LiCoO2)
2.Lithium Manganese Oxide (LiMn2O4)
3.Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt Oxide (LiNiMnCoO2 or NMC)
4.Lithium Iron Phosphate(LiFePO4)
5.Lithium Nickel Cobalt Aluminum Oxide (LiNiCoAlO2)
6.Lithium Titanate (Li4Ti5O12)
And just like I thought the battery expert was going to jump in and ramble off. And Yes, Tesla has their batteries shut down before they will ever go to zero, not my point but having said that Tesla also only lets you charge to 95%. So you forgot too mention that. Which means at 100% SOC is really 95%. And since I said that you never want to let lithium batteries completely die, is why Tesla makes sure you cannot! And No, supercharging does not lead to less battery degradation from my experience and what I have read. I think it's the number one factor too causing degradation, which as you know charging at high rates causes reduction in the battery cells life. If you have read discussions on here you would see that most people who have a lot of degradation are using superchargers or charging at home at high amps. Anyways I am going off actual experience of what I have read and tried myself. I am not saying too charge to 100% every time, but that you should every once in awhile instead of constantly charging to 80% only. My data points are thru my own experience and the fact that I am not experiencing the same degradation that others are by charging to 100% and keeping the amps under 30. In fact after doing a long road trip and using superchargers I have had my range drop from 268 to 265, then gained back the 3 miles by charging too full for a few days straight afterwords. So regardless of your 9 years of experience, what ever I am doing is at least working. Anyways if you have something useful to help us Tesla owners to maintain or regain some range please tell?
Pretty sure if it has 270 miles of range it's a Version 3. Otherwise I posted the only 2 V3 battery numbers. It's located on the passenger side behind the front wheel
ahkahn
Active Member
Evil Twin
Member
Evil Twin
Member
No.
The V3 was introduced in the refresh 2016 p90d. The ONLY way you will find a '15 with a V3 is if someone with a V1 got their battery replaced (and there are a few on this forum....I spent months researching the issue).
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