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Paint Stained

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So, I park in a parking garage for work and I guess something dripped on my hood and I guess I didn't see it and it dried and stained the paint. It looks like it's white but dripped down the entire one side of my hood.

I tried my waterless car wash stuff and it did nothing. The stain is flat not raised as I can run my finger across.

Not sure if this is just limescale or something worse.

Any thoughts or suggestions to correct or do I just need a professional to do a paint correction?

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Did you park in a parking garage? if YES this could be calcium and CLR will need to be applied.

Don't ask me how I know. ;)

I did read it could be limescale. Some say to use water and vinegar combination. Says it will remove any wax that was on the car. So I would have to rewax. Any suggestions on a good liquid wax that doesn't leave a white residue?

Clay bar and DA Orbital Polisher with light cutting/polishing compound.

Ski

Thanks all for the quick responses.

Not sure I am skilled enough or confident enough to clay bar and use an orbital polisher.

I am just a little nervous with what I have read about the Tesla paint. I do not want to make it worse.

I guess I can start by trying to wash the hood with something better than the waterless wash stuff I have.

Now I just have to find the time to do all of this once I get the wash/wax products.
 
I did read it could be limescale. Some say to use water and vinegar combination. Says it will remove any wax that was on the car. So I would have to rewax. Any suggestions on a good liquid wax that doesn't leave a white residue?



Thanks all for the quick responses.

Not sure I am skilled enough or confident enough to clay bar and use an orbital polisher.

I am just a little nervous with what I have read about the Tesla paint. I do not want to make it worse.

I guess I can start by trying to wash the hood with something better than the waterless wash stuff I have.

Now I just have to find the time to do all of this once I get the wash/wax products.


Using a clay bar and using an orbital polisher are two different things/steps. I would leave the polisher to a professional (if needed) but using a clay bar is super easy. Just be sure to use plenty of clay lube and use a clean clay bar, and your paint should be fine. If clay bar doesn’t work, I would next try a paint cleanser such as :

https://www.amazon.com/P21S-12350B-...ocphy=1013962&hvtargid=pla-571625035097&psc=1

If that doesn’t work, you can try applying a car polish by hand such as Meguiars Ultimate Polish. And if that doesn’t work, then I would take it to a professional detailer.

Since you asked about a wax (for after the paint is cleaned), I recommend Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax or Turtle Wax Seal and Shine. Note that the TW Seal and Shine is a sealant that has Carnauba wax mixed in. It provides awesome protection and is a great value. If you want even longer lasting protection, you can check out a ceramic infused spray sealant such as OpriCoat’s Hyper Seal.

Good luck!
 
meguiars ultimate compound, I just used it on my car to get rid of some bird poop etching. I did it by hand with an applicator pad and micro fiber cloth.

Great suggestion (another Meguiars Ultimate fan).

When correcting paint, you always want to start with the least aggressive product first and then move up to a more aggressive product if the first product didn’t work. So I would first try a paint cleaner, then Ultimate Polish, and then Ultimate Compound.

Or this sounds like too much work, just take it straight to a professional detailer and let them handle the whole thing.
 
Using a clay bar and using an orbital polisher are two different things/steps. I would leave the polisher to a professional (if needed) but using a clay bar is super easy. Just be sure to use plenty of clay lube and use a clean clay bar, and your paint should be fine. If clay bar doesn’t work, I would next try a paint cleanser such as :

https://www.amazon.com/P21S-12350B-...ocphy=1013962&hvtargid=pla-571625035097&psc=1

If that doesn’t work, you can try applying a car polish by hand such as Meguiars Ultimate Polish. And if that doesn’t work, then I would take it to a professional detailer.

Since you asked about a wax (for after the paint is cleaned), I recommend Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax or Turtle Wax Seal and Shine. Note that the TW Seal and Shine is a sealant that has Carnauba wax mixed in. It provides awesome protection and is a great value. If you want even longer lasting protection, you can check out a ceramic infused spray sealant such as OpriCoat’s Hyper Seal.

Good luck!

Great suggestion (another Meguiars Ultimate fan).

When correcting paint, you always want to start with the least aggressive product first and then move up to a more aggressive product if the first product didn’t work. So I would first try a paint cleaner, then Ultimate Polish, and then Ultimate Compound.

Or this sounds like too much work, just take it straight to a professional detailer and let them handle the whole thing.

@Skunis what wax or protection DID you have on the car prior?

Thanks all again.

The only wax that is on the car came from the factory or dealer. I only have this car for 4 months.

My head is spinning with all these suggestions and I am just not sure I have the time or patience to try all this. I may just call a professional and get their opinion and price.

I really only need the hood done so hopefully not as expensive as I have seen in my research for an entire vehicle ($700-1000). I am hoping I can get just the hood done for maybe $300.
 
Thanks all again.

The only wax that is on the car came from the factory or dealer. I only have this car for 4 months.

My head is spinning with all these suggestions and I am just not sure I have the time or patience to try all this. I may just call a professional and get their opinion and price.

I really only need the hood done so hopefully not as expensive as I have seen in my research for an entire vehicle ($700-1000). I am hoping I can get just the hood done for maybe $300.

Or find a buddy with a DA polisher and offer him/her a 6-pack to help you out ;)
 
Guys--

So let me explain.. few years ago I parked in a boston parking garage , left my car for weeks (resident type parking by the month) I had never seen this type of glazing before on a vehicle and I owned a detail and tint shop in SW florida.. I tried everything dealer wanted to repaint the hood. I finally brought it to the garage where it happened and (they have a team of people as a service wash vehicles) and showed it to them.. he said stand back he sprayed something on it.. from a spray bottle- then rinsed - was gone.. to my amazement I inquired what was it?? CLR he replied.. happens all the time.. My point with all this.. many people even the dealership wanted to paint, wet sand etc.. and it fell off with a spray of CLR and hose.. he never touched it with anything else. (also didn't change me) the garages know how and why this happens and should be able to help if you dont have clr. raining days in a cement parking structure.. bad idea (look up when you park)
 
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Guys--

So let me explain.. few years ago I parked in a boston parking garage , left my car for weeks (resident type parking by the month) I had never seen this type of glazing before on a vehicle and I owned a detail and tint shop in SW florida.. I tried everything dealer wanted to repaint the hood. I finally brought it to the garage where it happened and (they have a team of people as a service wash vehicles) and showed it to them.. he said stand back he sprayed something on it.. from a spray bottle- then rinsed - was gone.. to my amazement I inquired what was it?? CLR he replied.. happens all the time.. My point with all this.. many people even the dealership wanted to paint, wet sand etc.. and it fell off with a spray of CLR and hose.. he never touched it with anything else. (also didn't change me) the garages know how and why this happens and should be able to help if you dont have clr. raining days in a cement parking structure.. bad idea (look up when you park)

Yep, I am now not parking near any drain pipes. Funny thing is I have been parking in this garage for years and never had this happen before.

Not sure that CLR is the best thing. The manufacturer even has a something on their site saying it is not meant for painted surfaces such as a car.
 
Yep, I am now not parking near any drain pipes. Funny thing is I have been parking in this garage for years and never had this happen before.

Not sure that CLR is the best thing. The manufacturer even has a something on their site saying it is not meant for painted surfaces such as a car.

Try a clay bar first (with soapy water). If that doesn't work, move to water/vinegar and baking soda mix. If all else fails, break out the compound and Portercable.
 
Yep, I am now not parking near any drain pipes. Funny thing is I have been parking in this garage for years and never had this happen before.

Not sure that CLR is the best thing. The manufacturer even has a something on their site saying it is not meant for painted surfaces such as a car.
CLR is fairly aggressive for a product marketed to non professionals.

I had stains like that on my cars that were parked in a concrete garage.

If your stain is the same then it’s a really thin layer of a calcium compound that will come off with an acidic solution. CLR is made specifically for dissolving Calcium Lime Rust and it will work (very well).

I’d try a weak vinegar/water solution first if you are concerned about CLR. The last thing I’d do is have this fixed with an abrasive method.
 
vinegar and water will remove it. CLR should do the trick too, but I would def try white vinegar first, since acetic acid's effects are very well known. I have no clue what is in CLR and what reactions it could have with various materials. I wouldn't worry about stripping the wax layer. That's the easy part to address if it happens.

Once you've applied the vinegar and water and removed the calcification, rinse the whole hood. Does water bead the same way over the washed spot as the rest of the hood? If so, you're good! If not, you might want to wax. Any wax product is fine IMO. Just apply it to the entire hood panel.
 
vinegar and water will remove it. CLR should do the trick too, but I would def try white vinegar first, since acetic acid's effects are very well known. I have no clue what is in CLR and what reactions it could have with various materials. I wouldn't worry about stripping the wax layer. That's the easy part to address if it happens.

Once you've applied the vinegar and water and removed the calcification, rinse the whole hood. Does water bead the same way over the washed spot as the rest of the hood? If so, you're good! If not, you might want to wax. Any wax product is fine IMO. Just apply it to the entire hood panel.

Thank you.

Is it odd that it is smooth to the touch when I run my finger from the clean to the stained spot? I would think calcification would leave a residue on the top so I would feel something. With this I feel nothing at all just smooth.
 
Thank you.

Is it odd that it is smooth to the touch when I run my finger from the clean to the stained spot? I would think calcification would leave a residue on the top so I would feel something. With this I feel nothing at all just smooth.
Give it a million years and it'll become a stalagmite. It's good that you can't feel anything, it's still at a micron layer. I agree with the dilute vinegar, that's acetic acid. Should probably wipe off easily.
 
Hopefully it wasn't industrial strength bleach used to clean/pressure wash the concrete parking garage...

LOL! Now do not get me started!

Give it a million years and it'll become a stalagmite. It's good that you can't feel anything, it's still at a micron layer. I agree with the dilute vinegar, that's acetic acid. Should probably wipe off easily.

Makes sense. I will try the diluted vinegar. I am sure I have some in the house somewhere.