Unfortunately the penetration of the pvc and refrigerant lines is above the foundation wall of the garage - so about 9” above the slab. I measured from the top of the penetrations to the bottom of the roof overhang above and only have 72”. So would not meet the 80” height requirement you mentioned. Is NEC requirement 80” or 72”?
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Panel upgrade
- Thread starter Eric99
- Start date
I guess, the panel will need to be replaced if you want to upgrade to something new.
So you could try a 7" tall platform, but the portion of the refrigerant lines above that height would technically still be a working space violation. I guess a pretty minor one.
It's actually 78", I was mistaken. But you're in luck in that regard, there's an exception:
Exception No. 1: In existing dwelling units, service equipment or panelboards that do not exceed 200 amperes shall be permitted in spaces where the height of the working space is less than 2.0 m (6 1/2 ft).
Cheers, Wayne
Has anyone here had experience with a “gas slam shut valve”? A neighbor of mine is also getting solar from Tesla and was flagged for the potential PG&E issue of their gas meter and main panel located within 3’ of each other. They called PG&E who is sending a rep out to evaluate but suggested they might be able to install a gas slam shut valve. In researching on the internet it looks like these are mostly for commercial/ industrial use. I am curious whether PG&E is starting to install them in residential areas to address these types of situations and what qualifies for this type of fix versus a whole relocation.
Can the platform be built using material like Trex decking where maintenance wouldn't be as big an issue over time?
I am thinking of using bricks with a solid 16x16 paver. I will mock it up and share a picture to see what everyone here thinks. I like the idea of bricks and paver tile as it non flammable and maintenance free but can be removed if access is needed. I was thinking of using simpler adhesive to lock everything together.
I’m not totally sure what you’re thinking of here, but it’s worth noting that pavers need to be fully supported underneath them. You wouldn’t just be able to support a 16x16 paver at the edges with rows of bricks or it will crack if someone steps in the middle of the paver where it’s unsupported.
As an update to my situation. After ordering in July. I am now scheduled for install on 12/7 for 3 PW and Medium sized solar.
I had PGE come out and replace the vent regulator on my gas meter with a new type that will apparently automatically stop the flow of gas if it senses a rapid change in pressure (either low or high). It reduces the clearance from the gas meter vent to electrical equipment from 36” to 12” radial. Since my electrical and gas meter are less than 36” apart per their original installation when the house was built in 1980s - this was the solution for not having to relocate the gas or electric meters.
I am now on to building the platform over the ac refrigerant lines.
The Tesla engineer has spec my system as whole house back up. I am worried that 3 powerwalls is insufficient to backup a house with 100 amp main house sub panel, 60 amp pool sub panel and a main panel with 2 AC units, 2 car chargers, a steam oven and extra 50 amp expansion circuit. Do you think the field guys will need to split my project into a new back up panel and then add a new non backed up panel. I don’t have a lot of wall space around the electric meter on the outside (3’5” wide) or inside garage wall (4’5” wide). Also I assume all Tesla panels are surface mount? Any issue installing a surface mount electric panel over a drywall wall that has a gas pipe running in it? I assume that is not allowed?
I had PGE come out and replace the vent regulator on my gas meter with a new type that will apparently automatically stop the flow of gas if it senses a rapid change in pressure (either low or high). It reduces the clearance from the gas meter vent to electrical equipment from 36” to 12” radial. Since my electrical and gas meter are less than 36” apart per their original installation when the house was built in 1980s - this was the solution for not having to relocate the gas or electric meters.
I am now on to building the platform over the ac refrigerant lines.
The Tesla engineer has spec my system as whole house back up. I am worried that 3 powerwalls is insufficient to backup a house with 100 amp main house sub panel, 60 amp pool sub panel and a main panel with 2 AC units, 2 car chargers, a steam oven and extra 50 amp expansion circuit. Do you think the field guys will need to split my project into a new back up panel and then add a new non backed up panel. I don’t have a lot of wall space around the electric meter on the outside (3’5” wide) or inside garage wall (4’5” wide). Also I assume all Tesla panels are surface mount? Any issue installing a surface mount electric panel over a drywall wall that has a gas pipe running in it? I assume that is not allowed?
When I put in my generator transfer switches on 2 200 amp panels, I told them I wanted to decide what I use, not rewire anything!
If I get batteries, taking the same approach. If I am out of power, then dah, seems one should not charge cars, use oven, ac units, etc.
Luckily I can do all those with my generator, if needed.
I agree that it’s ideal to be able to self manage your loads like that, however keep in mind that there needs to be a little different mindset with batteries since they have a (somewhat) finite amount of power.
For example, you might decide that you want your air conditioner backed up because you might want to use it sparingly in the event of an outage. However, if the air conditioner or another big load is on and the power fails when you are asleep or away from the house then it might drain the batteries before you can manually turn it off.
True, anything is possible. But for ease of installation, flexibility, I would just rather let me be in control. And in my case,with a big generator, I have another backup option for the backup option, if needed. Like most things in life, one can come up with a situation that justifies what they are doing.
I have 3 reasons that I want my a/c backed up :
1) When the PSPS happens it is almost always hot out (over 100F often).
2) During an outage, I know that if the panels produce more power than the house requires it shuts down and you are running everything off the PW. Turning on the A/C may be the tipping point to get the inverters to turn back on and start charging the PW and power the house.
3) I have a 2.5 ton A/C that only draws 3200W and the air handler draws 200W.
I actually have considered putting the wall charger for the Model Y on backup. Especially since you can regulate the charge rate, and since you can't pump gas during an outage - our ICE car could be less than ideal even though my wife is pretty good about not going below 1/3 tank for earthquake reasons.
Good to hear. A house SIX BLOCKS up further up the hill from me had a sudden gas explosion. I thought the was was an earthquake as my windows rattled so hard I thought they were going to shatter. But heard nothing expect all the car alarms. Within min's it was constant sirens and even helicopters for the next hour.
It blew out EVERY window and exterior door in the house their house with everyone inside and set the garage on fire. Thankfully everyone lived with minor injuries.
I drove by today and aside from all the doors and windows being boarded up by contractor's there is nothing else visible from the outside.
It would be very helpful if you could provide a reference to this new type of vent regulator or at least a proper name to research.
Thanks,
Wayne
The name on the regulator is Pietro Fiorentini FE- I don't see a model number. Just indicates CSA cert 6.22- 2011/ ANSI cert. Z21.80 with two reset buttons. It seems like a good solution to manage the risk of ignition from venting. I assume it would be useful in an earthquake if a line were ruptured.
Does anyone know if NEC allows surface mounting of electrical load panels or electrical disconnects on a drywalled 2x4 wall with a steel black gas pipe supply line inside the stud bay?
Do you know whether the explosion/ ignition occurred inside the house (furnace, clothes dryer, water heater, or gas stove), or was it an exterior ignition at the gas meter? I would think if the windows blew out- sounds like the issue was a gas appliance inside the home.
No problem as long as the gas pipe is behind the footprint of the panel, as your description implies it must be.
Cheers, Wayne
PGE just replaced my regulator to the Pietro Fiorentini unit that supposedly reduces the clearance requirement like you've stated. I submitted photos of the new regulator to Tesla but they are saying that it still doesn't meet clearance and are asking for something in writing from PGE indicating the reduced clearance as acceptable. I can't find anything in the Greenbook so perhaps there's something else? Were you able to get Tesla to accept the reduced clearance that accompanied the new regulator? If so, how?
Here are some shots of my current situation with the new regulator in place.
Thanks for quick response BG. The angle on the photo is a little deceiving. The meter is just outside 12 inches (13.25" to be exact) at it's closest point.
No one had mentioned any issues with the meter itself being a specific distance from the panel. The issue I was informed of was the 36" clearance from the gas regulator vent outlet point. Tesla is saying that they cannot do any work inside that clearance area (36" to either side, 10' vertical) and thus they cannot connect to my panel in its current location.
That said, PGE just put in this new regulator and they told me that the new clearance is only 12" to each side, however Tesla is pushing back and requesting something in writing from PGE stating this reduced clearance is ok. I was hoping someone here might have some experience with this and/or some documentation I can use to move my install forward.
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