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Parts list and instructions to add 2016+ center console into 2012-2016 MS

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I sourced all of the parts to retrofit the 2016 Model S (or X) center console into a 2012 or later Model S. I wanted to have the factory look and primarily wanted the 2nd row cupholders and USB ports. I also wanted the full side panels that covered the entire console (1055163-03 and 1055164-03). To do this install, you will need to know how to solder to add the rear USB ports.

The overall cost is around $700, not including labor. If you have all the parts, it should take you 2-3 hours (including the modifications I listed near the end). A full MX or MS console are occasionally listed on eBay for $650-750, but they typically don't have the rear usb ports nor the full side panels.

The $1,250 you pay for the Tesla center console does not provide rear USB ports. If you just want to add the rear USB ports, then follow instructions in this post and order the parts in bold below. You will have to completely remove the console to perform this upgrade. Use this PDF to help with disassembly/assembly. This will cost about $200.

This diagram on Tesla's electronic parts catalog gives you an exploded list of the parts. Pick Model S, then 15 - Interior, then 1519-Center Console, then Center Tunnel Trim (on or after Aug 31, 2016). You should be able to use your Tesla login to gain access.

This PDF gives you the assembly steps, minus the USB ports. The only missing step is that there are screws that hold the USB ports and 12V trim panel to the console. These are accessed from behind. I also did not remove the armrest in step 12 because I used the installed console. You will need to remove the armrests and trim.

Tools needed:
  • A metric socket set
  • Ratcheting screw driver with an extension
  • Torx and Philips head bits
  • Trim tool to remove trim panels
  • Soldering iron, solder and flux
  • Heat shrink tubes (or electrical tape)
  • Dremel (for console floor and insert mods) - cutting wheel(s) and cylinder sanding tool
The following parts I sourced from eBay and the price I paid with shipping. YMMV.
  • 1055149-00-E PREMIUM CONSOLE SUBASY - $90 (note this is just the inset, no side panels and no lid)
  • 1058082-00-C DIVIDER, PREMIUM CONSOLE - $38 (for 4)
  • 1055163-03-C ASY, PANEL, PREM, LH, PVC B, BLK/BLK - $75
  • 1055164-03-C ASY, PANEL, PREM, RH, PVC B, BLK/BLK - $75 (bought the pair for $150)
  • 1057331-00-E CENTER CONSOLE BRACKET - $105 (none available right now)
  • 1086670-00-B ASY, SECOND ROW CUP HOLDER - $74
  • 1047537-00-C CABLE, USB, LIGHTED, SECOND ROW $77
  • 1080669-00-A Cables - $33
I ordered the following parts from Tesla. You could order the parts above from Tesla, but I believe they are more expensive. With these parts, I either couldn't find them or they were more expensive online than from Tesla:
  • 1064504-00-A - ASY, CONSOLE BACK PANEL, CUP HOLDER - $10
  • 1064501-00-B - ASY, VENT BEZEL , CUP HOLDER - $33
  • 1086690-00-A - CUP HOLDER DOOR - $17
  • 1058083-00-B - MAT, FRONT, PREMIUM CONSOLE - $11 (this is optional, just cleans up the bottom of your console)
  • 1014049-00-B - SCREW T20 ST4.2X20 W WASHER 4.0 0.55 - $2 (you will need at least 2-3 of these to attach the USB converter (1032431) to the new rear panel (1064504))
  • 1007116-00-A - SQ EDGE CLIP, 4.2, 11x12.5, STL,ZN - $2 (you can reuse the u-clips from the side panels you are removing)
  • 1032431-00-E - Wiring harness - $60. You are only buying this harness for the connection that matches up to the USB converter (1047537-00-C). I searched all over for this part and finally found it was made specifically for Tesla. The wiring harness connections differ at the front, so you can't replace it. See this post from @KaptinPlanet on how to splice this connector into your existing wiring harness.
  • 1058084-00-C - I believe this is the mat that goes in the folding/rotating phone connection section (that hides the 12V and USB ports). I have an email to Tesla but no confirmation yet. Abstract ocean sells a replacement mat kit, but they are out of stock of the black/black version.
The sliding lid comes in 8 different finishes (linear dark ash, oak, fig ash burl). "GRAPH" indicates the lid handle is grey (graphite) vs. silver. Mammoth tends to show fingerprints, but matches the rest of the console finish and side panels. There are a couple of pics of Carbon Fiber and Linear Dark Ash in this post.

1058088-11-A - SLIDING LID, CARBON FIBER - $75
1058088-21-A - SLIDING LID, CARBON [FIBER] GRAPH
1058088-22-A - SLIDING LID, LINEAR DARK ASH GRAPH
1058088-12-A - SLIDING LID, LINEAR DARK ASH [SILVER]
1058088-23-A - SLIDING LID, OAK GRAPH
1058088-06-A - SLIDING LID, MAMMOTH
1058088-19-A - SLIDING LID, FIG ASH BURL GRAPH
1058088-09-B - SLIDING LID, FIG ASH BURL [SILVER]

The rear bracket (1057331) will require longer flange bolts M6x1.0x30MM to secure it to the floor. You can purchase these from Home Depot for about $1 for 2 bolts. I also purchased M6x1.0x25MM bolts to secure the center console to the floor. I ordered these from Tesla since the bolt heads didn't sit down into the CCI inset holes, but haven't received them yet.
1007116-00-A NUT PSH M4.2

I had to make 2 modifications to improve the fit:
  1. Filed down the bumpers/feet underneath the center console to secure it to the 2012-2016 existing console. Before I made this mod, the rear of the console would not fit below the 12V outlet unless you pushed down on the rear of the console. Recommend you file lightly, test the fit, and repeat until the console fits. This mod also allows the side panels to snap more easily into the center console.
  2. Cut a slot for the console lid to slide past the back of the original console floor. Again, trial and error. Make sure the lid can easily slide back behind the console before you install it, and that any left/right play in the CCI will still allow the door to open/close
Hope this helps, good luck and feel free to DM me with any questions.
 
This is great, any photos of the journey or a before/after?

Unfortunately, I didn't take pics during the assembly. The PDF link I posted above covers all the step with better pictures, other than the missing screw removals for the plate above the 12V and USB outlets. Nothing surprising, looks just like the Tesla photos. And I missed some spots while vacuuming.

View media item 121178View media item 121177View media item 121176View media item 121175View media item 121174View media item 121173View media item 121172View media item 121171
 
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wow thats uhh... a lot of work for little payout, but its great to see informative posts like this

Thanks, all depends on what you call a lot of work. Hour or so running through the diagrams to match up parts that existed on both pre-2016 and post-2016 parts, double checking against the Model X parts, then 2-3 hours doing the work. I enjoy doing projects like this one, and I hope that others can use it.
 
So just adding a couple of pics to this thread. I did not want to tap into 12volt so I added a usb hub and added a front usb-c and USB plus kept the cigarette lighter. I should have drilled out the hole for the add-in usb a little higher then I did. Something to note for next time.
 

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Usb Hub
USB Car Charger, YFSmart Aluminium Fast Front/Back Seat Charging Multiple USB PD&QC 3.0 Port Type C Dual 2.4 A Port Car Adapter Fit Compatible with Samsung Galaxy, Google Pixel 4/3/2/XL More(Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085L44N7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k77cFbHPPAEYR

USB Add on
BATIGE Type C 2.0 and USB 2.0 Male to Female AUX Car Mount Flush Cable Waterproof Extension for Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Dashboard Panel - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07STC9468/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o87cFbF82AFHE

Mini to USB for oem usb plugs
Electop 2 Pack USB 2.0 A Male to USB B Mini 5 Pin Female Adapter Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PGGUWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_687cFb60NQSM0
 
Man, this is what I've been looking for. I'm combing through the parts list and photos now but I was curious if you knew off hand if it's possible to just add the rear cup holders without updating the center console. I may or may not want to add the rear USB ports but rear cup holders would be a god send with the kids. Thanks!
 
After reviewing the part list from @jgatl and Tesla's Parts diagrams, I'm going to attempt to add just the rear cup holders without doing the entire center console retrofit. With that in mind, I just ordered the following parts off of eBay:
  • 1086670-00-B ASY, SECOND ROW CUP HOLDER
  • 1047537-00-C CABLE, USB, LIGHTED, SECOND ROW
  • 1064504-00-A - ASY, CONSOLE BACK PANEL, CUP HOLDER
  • 1064501-00-B - ASY, VENT BEZEL , CUP HOLDER
  • 1057331-00-E CENTER CONSOLE BRACKET
  • 1086690-00-A - CUP HOLDER DOOR
I'm sure I will need some extra screws and clips and whatnot as I start the install. I will most likely use the approach listed by @treowx to wire up the rear USB ports, rather than buying a new harness to save a few bucks. Parts totaled up to right under $250 so I hope it all works. Will keep you all posted...
 

Success!!!

Using just the parts above and slightly modifying the existing parts, I was able to retrofit just the rear cup holders and get the USB ports working without the whole center console retrofit. Kids are happy!
What existing parts needed modification? I assume they were largely to get clearance behind the USB panel and bring power to them? Wondering what parts would be needed and if it could be done with fewer/easier modifications to existing parts if one only desired to have the rear cup holders or is this is even possible w/o the USB panel for fitment?
 
After reviewing the part list from @jgatl and Tesla's Parts diagrams, I'm going to attempt to add just the rear cup holders without doing the entire center console retrofit. With that in mind, I just ordered the following parts off of eBay:
  • 1086670-00-B ASY, SECOND ROW CUP HOLDER
  • 1047537-00-C CABLE, USB, LIGHTED, SECOND ROW
  • 1064504-00-A - ASY, CONSOLE BACK PANEL, CUP HOLDER
  • 1064501-00-B - ASY, VENT BEZEL , CUP HOLDER
  • 1057331-00-E CENTER CONSOLE BRACKET
  • 1086690-00-A - CUP HOLDER DOOR
I'm sure I will need some extra screws and clips and whatnot as I start the install. I will most likely use the approach listed by @treowx to wire up the rear USB ports, rather than buying a new harness to save a few bucks. Parts totaled up to right under $250 so I hope it all works. Will keep you all posted...
There is one additional part that I forgot to list-
1064478-00-B - ASY, AIR DUCT, CNTR CONSOLE - This came with my Center Console Bracket and I didn't realize it was a separate part.
 
What existing parts needed modification? I assume they were largely to get clearance behind the USB panel and bring power to them? Wondering what parts would be needed and if it could be done with fewer/easier modifications to existing parts if one only desired to have the rear cup holders or is this is even possible w/o the USB panel for fitment?
There are two modifications you have to do parts to make this work and they basically are to make the older parts fit with the newer ones and are not related to the USB ports at all. epc.tesla.com has a lot of great diagrams that should help you follow along.

1. On the new Center Console Insert (1057331-00-E), you need to cut off the plastic prong that is right on top of the rear air vent outlet. The old part was secured with this but the new piece is secured from the sides. This is what took me the longest when doing all this cause it's positioning is different than the old part and does not fit with the existing carrier frame.
2. On your existing side panel trim pieces (1008224-02-G & 1008227-02-G), you have to trim a little bit of the plastic (1 inch) along the edges where it meets the new back panel piece (1064504-00-A) so it will sit flush.

And to answer your question, yes you can install all this without the USB ports as the the official retrofit does not have them. You need the bezel that doesn't have the cutouts, part number - 1082182-00-A (which was a pain to find by the way). You may need to order directly from Tesla as I only saw one online and bought it; I'm not happy with the rear USB ports as they don't charge the kid's iPads with my current setup so I'm just gonna forgo the rear USB ports. So if you go without the USB ports, the parts list simplifies to:

1086670-00-B ASY, SECOND ROW CUP HOLDER -
1064504-00-A - ASY, CONSOLE BACK PANEL, CUP HOLDER -
1082182-00-A - ASY, VENT BEZEL (NO USB), CUP HOLDER -
1057331-00-E CENTER CONSOLE BRACKET -
1086690-00-A - CUP HOLDER DOOR -
1064478-00-B - ASY, AIR DUCT, CNTR CONSOLE - Forgot in above list

Sorry I'm not on here a lot but I'll try and take some pics of the modifications when I tear open my car again.
 
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People are strange (me more than most) - glad OP got a good result after lots of planning.
For me, I'd like to remove my 2020 Model S centre console and get a yacht floor like my 2015 P85D had!
I miss the airiness. And the proper display, btw :)
Enjoy the console jgatl- I'm sure the kids will enjoy the USBs.
 
People are strange (me more than most) - glad OP got a good result after lots of planning.
For me, I'd like to remove my 2020 Model S centre console and get a yacht floor like my 2015 P85D had!
I miss the airiness. And the proper display, btw :)
Enjoy the console jgatl- I'm sure the kids will enjoy the USBs.
That's why I just added the cup holders; I liked the airy feel too. You can probably sell your center console and go back to an open floor; I've found the interior bits are pretty interchangeable with just minor adjustments.
 
On our last road trip I realized we really need second row cup holders and usb charging ports.

I like the "open" front console, so I don't want to go to full integrated console. Just get the "rear seat upgrade!" :)

I managed to find many of the required parts from ebay:

Rest of the parts I bought separately, but found all from ebay at reasonable price.

I didn't buy the wiring harness, I'm planning on tapping a separate +12V -> +5V power supply to feed the rear usbs.

Thanks for this great topic! I'll tell you how it goes. :)
 
Oh, I just noticed there seems to be two part numbers for the center console bracket,

1057331-00-E and 1057333-00-E.. they look pretty darn identical in the photos. Anyone know if there is any actual difference?

Edit: 331 is LHD, 333 is RHD. Still looks identical to me. :)
 
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