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Pearl White vs Deep Blue

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I went with paint protection film on my Dolphin Grey 2013 S85, after paint correction. The paint correction specialist, who has worked on several hundred Teslas, confirmed that the paint on the Tesla is very soft. Measurement of the depth of the paint varied from point to point over the car. I had PPF applied, then CQuartz Finest. Three years later I don't regret it for a moment, and the water beads off my car the same way it did in the first months. I will be driving our second Model S straight to Joe Torbati at OC Detailing for paint correction and PPF.


Thanks for the info about the paint... I was hoping it was not true. It sure seems like an expensive car should have durable paint, if everyone is going to all this trouble to protect their paint, why not make a car that has durable paint to begin with? Thanks for the tip about OC Detailing, I went to their website and they do indeed have a lot of experience with Teslas, but this statement caught my attention:

"Any time you put paint protection film on your car no matter the brand. It requires maintenance to keep it in tip top shape. Coating the film makes this a breeze by eliminating the need to wax or seal it on a regular basis. And Finest has protective properties no sealant could ever dream of having."

Jeez, so now the expensive paint protection film needs an expensive film protection coating... egads when will it end! I suppose there is also some sort of protection for the coating that protects the film coating that protects the paint; wax perhaps?:rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the info about the paint... I was hoping it was not true. It sure seems like an expensive car should have durable paint, if everyone is going to all this trouble to protect their paint, why not make a car that has durable paint to begin with? Thanks for the tip about OC Detailing, I went to their website and they do indeed have a lot of experience with Teslas, but this statement caught my attention:

"Any time you put paint protection film on your car no matter the brand. It requires maintenance to keep it in tip top shape. Coating the film makes this a breeze by eliminating the need to wax or seal it on a regular basis. And Finest has protective properties no sealant could ever dream of having."

Jeez, so now the expensive paint protection film needs an expensive film protection coating... egads when will it end! I suppose there is also some sort of protection for the coating that protects the film coating that protects the paint; wax perhaps?:rolleyes:
My thoughts exactly. But really comes down to your personal paint damage risk tolerance.
 
Thanks for the info about the paint... I was hoping it was not true. It sure seems like an expensive car should have durable paint, if everyone is going to all this trouble to protect their paint, why not make a car that has durable paint to begin with? Thanks for the tip about OC Detailing, I went to their website and they do indeed have a lot of experience with Teslas, but this statement caught my attention:

"Any time you put paint protection film on your car no matter the brand. It requires maintenance to keep it in tip top shape. Coating the film makes this a breeze by eliminating the need to wax or seal it on a regular basis. And Finest has protective properties no sealant could ever dream of having."

Jeez, so now the expensive paint protection film needs an expensive film protection coating... egads when will it end! I suppose there is also some sort of protection for the coating that protects the film coating that protects the paint; wax perhaps?:rolleyes:
I haven't used anything more than Chemical Guys or ONR on my car (I hand wash it) in the three years I've owned it, so I guess there is minimal savings on products I might have otherwise used. And after three years my car has no nicks or chips (I had both bumpers and the hood and side mirrors done), and is far easier to keep clean with the CQuartz. As others have pointed out, only you can decide where your risk tolerance is for paint damage.
 
There are a lot of new items, terms here that I'm unfamiliar with. What is "Paint Correction"? what is "PPF applied, then CQuartz Finest."

I want to take good care of my stuff, but sometimes watch special audio shops sell stuff that can only be useful to audiophiles. Now comes the paint specialists - what is "good" and what is "premium" and how much is enough?

I'd like to be able to make an informed decision, not be hustled by a salesman, so I am coming to this forum for advice from folks who put their money down - or did not put their money down - based on experience.
 
Paint Correction is a fancy name use by an overpriced laborer with a buffer. Common sense handwashing and hand waxing protects your paint, the rest of this 'stuff' wastes your money. 'A fool and his money are soon parted'. Oh, JMHO

There are a lot of new items, terms here that I'm unfamiliar with. What is "Paint Correction"? what is "PPF applied, then CQuartz Finest."

I want to take good care of my stuff, but sometimes watch special audio shops sell stuff that can only be useful to audiophiles. Now comes the paint specialists - what is "good" and what is "premium" and how much is enough?

I'd like to be able to make an informed decision, not be hustled by a salesman, so I am coming to this forum for advice from folks who put their money down - or did not put their money down - based on experience.
 
There are a lot of new items, terms here that I'm unfamiliar with. What is "Paint Correction"? what is "PPF applied, then CQuartz Finest."

I want to take good care of my stuff, but sometimes watch special audio shops sell stuff that can only be useful to audiophiles. Now comes the paint specialists - what is "good" and what is "premium" and how much is enough?

I'd like to be able to make an informed decision, not be hustled by a salesman, so I am coming to this forum for advice from folks who put their money down - or did not put their money down - based on experience.
Like you, I'm also new to this although I've already started to do some research.

PPF
stands for Paint Protection Film which protects a car's paint job from scratching, chipping, rocks, dirt, bird poop, tree sap, road tar, rock salt, etc. The best one I've heard of so far is Clearguard Nano SR because of its healing properties, extra thickness and clarity; plus it even adds a bit more shine to the car. Many Tesla owners have used other brands such as XPel, 3M Scotchgard and Suntek and variations range from glossy to satin, to matte, to a totally different color for your car. There are also multiple "grades" of each brand. The lower grades tend to form a yellowish tint over time.

CQuartz, Opticoat and Modesta are brands of ceramic coating which add another layer of protection and a deep shine, similar to glass. The downside to CC is that you can't peel off any damage like you can with PPF.

You may apply either one or both PPF and CC, although having both (or even CC+PPF+CC) would achieve maximum protection and shine. There are quite a few pictures on the TMC forum and videos on youtube. Prices vary from a few hundred dollars to the price of an Elio 3 wheeler.

To current owners out there, especially those in the NYC metro area, any detailed info on pricing for a full body wrap + ceramic coating, and window/windshield/pano roof tinting would really be appreciated!
 
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So my wife's new Honda has a nice paint job, and because it isa new - the car gets parked way-far-away from other cars.
She is afraid of door dings, things that have become anoying facts of life. Would any of there products make mall parking less hazardous? Do I just wait for the inevitable loss of virginity to begin parking in mainstream?
 
I did not have paint protection film applied to the doors, and I doubt that it would protect you adequately from door dents..might protect somewhat from the lighter contacts. I did have the film applied to the bumper and glad I did. I scraped the lower part of the bumper one night on a low fence that wasn't visible...significant damage to the paint protection film, and zero damage to the bumper. In the end all I had to replace was the PPF. So this "fool" appreciated the fact that I spent far less on the film than a new bumper. Of course, if you are a perfect driver in a perfect world you won't have to worry about those things...
 
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Think the summation of the many threads on this topic:
- most people opt for some kind of paint protection. Opticoat seems to be a satisfactory minimum
- the happy medium seems to be wrap full front and opticoat after. I'm going with this when I get mine (in blue!)
- if you are violently opposed to even opticoat, there was a recent thread by a member who has a very rigorous washing/detailing protocol which probably does the same thing as opticoat, but seemed like too much work for most - myself included.
 
Think the summation of the many threads on this topic:
- most people opt for some kind of paint protection. Opticoat seems to be a satisfactory minimum
- the happy medium seems to be wrap full front and opticoat after. I'm going with this when I get mine (in blue!)
- if you are violently opposed to even opticoat, there was a recent thread by a member who has a very rigorous washing/detailing protocol which probably does the same thing as opticoat, but seemed like too much work for most - myself included.

How is Opticoat different from CQuartz?
 
Does "Tesla Paint Factory" have an official position on how to care for their product? As I understand, Tesla is building the most advanced paint booth on earth - and those guys may have insight specific to their process.
I don't know how to ask them directly...if anyone on the forum know how to knock on that door, I'd like to know. (perhaps it is already written in the owners manual, which I don't yet own).
What do they think about Wrap/Opticote/wash...etc?

As a second question - I have heard that you should NOT wax a new car until the paint fully dries/cures. This is about 2-3 months after painting. Wax too early and you cause blisters. Perhaps that is from the days of liquid paint and the need for VOC to escape, and the modern powder paint and oven bake solves that curing issue upon leaving the oven. Any comments?
 
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I have heard that you should NOT wax a new car until the paint fully dries/cures. This is about 2-3 months after painting. Wax too early and you cause blisters. Perhaps that is from the days of liquid paint and the need for VOC to escape, and the modern powder paint and oven bake solves that curing issue upon leaving the oven. Any comments?

I'm thinking it's multiple light coats and then baking to cure. The model S episode of "how it's made" supports that theory. So should be fine by the time it actually gets to you (2 weeks later)
 
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I'm thinking it's multiple light coats and then baking to cure. The model S episode of "how it's made" supports that theory. So should be fine by the time it actually gets to you (2 weeks later)
Sounds like you are confirming the old VOC paint problem. Never sure when it is a myth and when it is reality. Was the time factor 2-3 months after painting for VOC? Have most car painters switched out VOC (even body shops) or do I need to be cautious even on repairs?
 
I think Tesla looks great in any color. I liked the previous color palette more than the newer ones. I debated between the Pearl White and Blue as well. You really can't go wrong. To me, the Pearl White really stands out with the pano and black liner - the contrast is stunning, looks very sporty and the shimmer makes it look very classy. It's also great for resale if you ever wanted to.
 
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The blue is actually our own factory color Unplugged Electric Blue but you get the idea


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