I just used Protective Film Technologies, (703-944-7076) to do my headlights. Skip will come to you to do it. I've used him before; he does excellent work.
Last edited:
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
I just used Protective Film Technologies, (703-944-7076) to do my headlights. Skip will come to you to do it. I've used him before; he does excellent work.
dhrivnak
Active Member
Well mostly a success.
The short story - I used the 3M Headlight Restoration Kit which while helpful, one only really needs some sandpaper (400-500 grit to remove the coating - then 800, 1200, 3000 grit to get the light down to a dull haze. Amazon.com: 3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System: Automotive. This took a good 2+ hours. But I did not need the polish as I wanted a UV protection. So I found some 3M Quick Headlight clear coat for like $10 at O'Rilleys Autoparts. That removed the haze and appeared to give good results.
The long story - It actually took me closer to 20 hours. As I intially used the 3M kit and carefully pollished the lenses. They looked great but from reading it seems like unprotected plastic will quickly yellow due to UV degration. I was sold some u-pol clear #1 which received some great reviews but when I used it; it quickly developed nasty spider cracks. So I had to fully sand and remove it. Thinking it was my fault, I applied a second time with the same results. So I had to fully remove a second time. This was a major PITA. We will see how it holds up, but since I had already upgraded to brighter Xeon DDM lights I did not want to spring the $2800 for new lights. As I hear even the new ones peel after several years.
The short story - I used the 3M Headlight Restoration Kit which while helpful, one only really needs some sandpaper (400-500 grit to remove the coating - then 800, 1200, 3000 grit to get the light down to a dull haze. Amazon.com: 3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System: Automotive. This took a good 2+ hours. But I did not need the polish as I wanted a UV protection. So I found some 3M Quick Headlight clear coat for like $10 at O'Rilleys Autoparts. That removed the haze and appeared to give good results.
The long story - It actually took me closer to 20 hours. As I intially used the 3M kit and carefully pollished the lenses. They looked great but from reading it seems like unprotected plastic will quickly yellow due to UV degration. I was sold some u-pol clear #1 which received some great reviews but when I used it; it quickly developed nasty spider cracks. So I had to fully sand and remove it. Thinking it was my fault, I applied a second time with the same results. So I had to fully remove a second time. This was a major PITA. We will see how it holds up, but since I had already upgraded to brighter Xeon DDM lights I did not want to spring the $2800 for new lights. As I hear even the new ones peel after several years.
Last edited:
@dhrivnak thanks for your post. My original headlight film started to peel several months ago. So you used a variable speed drill with the various grades of sanding discs, and then the polish in the kit you bought?
For masking tape I would think that blue painters tape would be fine.
Once you get the headlights looking like new again, wouldn't some sort of protective film be desirable?
For masking tape I would think that blue painters tape would be fine.
Once you get the headlights looking like new again, wouldn't some sort of protective film be desirable?
dhrivnak
Active Member
Basically yes but to save time do not polish If you add a coating like I did. The 3000 grit is fine enough. I then applied 3M Headlight Clear Coat. It was wipes so very easy to apply. I used the green painter tape as it sticks much better.
My 2.0 is very partially wrapped in xpel and was completely coated with opticoat pro plus. I had my headlights done in opticoat (not coating the breather patches). I was torn between using the a film (xpel) vs the opticoat. The film has minimal UV block, opticoat in theory does as it is filled with an inorganic silicon carbide, Of course, opticoat is very thin so how much UV blocking is a question...I have never seen transmission data.
Anyway, still thinking about using the film based on this excellent forum. I was wondering if anyone removed their film for any reason and if it induced delamination? Also does it affect heat build up at the headlight surface? I just wonder because the porsche forums contain a number of posts about porsche headlight coatings delaminating from their headlights when removing film. Yes, I know, different car, etc. but made me wonder.
The question then goes to why would you ever remove your film in the first place? I agree that is not likely for the roadster as the headlights are thankfully mounted at such a shallow angle that a sharp hit by a stone requiring film replacement would be unlikely...unless the film yellowed.
From following the diligence of this forum over the years, I'm sure some of you probably saw the porsche postings thought about this. Just wondering if anyone has had to remove their film and if it has induced delamination of the headlight coating? Evidently heat is not an issue as someone would have developed an issue by now.
I've been lucky since the originals which peeled were replaced under warranty about 5 yrs ago, but these postings makes me wonder if I have just been lucky.
Anyway, still thinking about using the film based on this excellent forum. I was wondering if anyone removed their film for any reason and if it induced delamination? Also does it affect heat build up at the headlight surface? I just wonder because the porsche forums contain a number of posts about porsche headlight coatings delaminating from their headlights when removing film. Yes, I know, different car, etc. but made me wonder.
The question then goes to why would you ever remove your film in the first place? I agree that is not likely for the roadster as the headlights are thankfully mounted at such a shallow angle that a sharp hit by a stone requiring film replacement would be unlikely...unless the film yellowed.
From following the diligence of this forum over the years, I'm sure some of you probably saw the porsche postings thought about this. Just wondering if anyone has had to remove their film and if it has induced delamination of the headlight coating? Evidently heat is not an issue as someone would have developed an issue by now.
I've been lucky since the originals which peeled were replaced under warranty about 5 yrs ago, but these postings makes me wonder if I have just been lucky.
I thought the breather patches were Goretex on the underside of the headlight assembly, are you referring to the small square indentations on the side of the lens? I had the entire headlight lens covered with the film, should I be removing it from those areas?
I thought so also, but I have two small circular finely textured patches on the upper inside corner of my headlights that were not on the originals headlights. Maybe they aren't the breather patches, anyway, i didn't cover it. Previous owner had the patches installed by tesla after the new headlights were installed 5 yrs ago. I need to get a confirmation if the information was correct about what these are. I never seen such patches on headlights before. I'd like to know as if I go with the film and they are not critical, they are getting covered for sure.
Thanks sethr.
Just finished restoring my headlights, as they were both peeling.
I used this kit Amazon.com: 3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System: Automotive
Getting the old film off a headlight is time consuming and I used all eight P500 sanding pads in the kit, even with constantly vacuuming the dust off them to reuse them. I don't see how one could get the old film off with just four of the pads.
Then I used three of the four P800 pads on the first headlight. Then the P3000 foam disc (you use it wet). Finally the foam compounding pad with the wet polish paste. At each step, I estimate I went over the entire headlight surface at least 15 times, moving slowly (but not too slow) and applying moderate pressure.
After 4 hours of work on one headlight I had completed all the steps. I cleaned it off and was not impressed with the result. Too many fine scratches, and a very slight haze. I would need to start over. But I had no more P500 pads. So I ordered a box of 50 from Amazon, and also ordered a box of 50 P800 pads (couldn't find a smaller quantity box).
New pads arrived several days later, and I went through the entire procedure again, taking about 2 hours. Since the old headlight film was gone, the first step with the P500 pads took much less time. Completed all the steps, cleaned the headlight, and decided it was slightly better. But comparing it to the untouched headlight, the refinished headlight was not nearly as clear. It looked good from 6 ft away but up close it was in no way comparable.
Still, it was better than the "peeled" look. So I went ahead and did the other headlight. Now that I had a large supply of P500 and P800 pads I didn't bother to try to clean and reuse them, I used a pad on about half the headlight surface and then replaced it with a new pad. I ended up using about 25 P500 pads and 5 P800 pads. Then the P3000 foam pad and then the foam compound polishing pad.
After completing the second headlight, it looked essentially the same as the first headlight. Good, but not great, and definitely not "like new".
Now I need to protect the headlights with new film. Any recommendations? Any come pre-cut?
So total cost was about $65. Was the 8 hours I spent (over two days) worth the effort? I suppose. But I was hoping for a "like new" appearance.
Here are photos showing a completed headlight with blue tape around it (going through the process twice) and for comparison an untouched headlight. Photos don't really show the difference clearly.
dhrivnak
Active Member
It does not appear you applied a liquid clear coat. That does a remarkable job of clearing up any residual haze. ORiley's has an application pack for $10 and it worked well
You are correct, I have not applied that coating. I will get that. But shouldn't a protective film be applied as well?
The original headlight coating is probably just a urethane clearcoat. The problem is that is was applied over a smooth surface and eventually looses adhesion. I use 1500 grit on a DA sander after the original coating is removed and then shoot it with a high quality UV protected 2 part urethane clear. The rougher surface gives the clear a lot more to hold on to.
wiztecy
Active Member
The protective film helps prevent the clear coat from peeling. As MLAUTO indicated, making the surface of application rough gives better adhesion, however, it may still peel over time or even become hazy. The film/paint armor on the headlights is cheap insurance it won't peel on you again. Your weakest link here still will be your clear-coat, so you're also dependent on how the manufacturer made the product.
We also have to see what happens when the paint armor/film is pulled off as time has passed. I'm hoping that the clear coat stays intact on what was covered so it can be recovered without much effort, but we'll see when I or someone else gets to that point.
We also have to see what happens when the paint armor/film is pulled off as time has passed. I'm hoping that the clear coat stays intact on what was covered so it can be recovered without much effort, but we'll see when I or someone else gets to that point.
Yes, I was wondering about that as well.
I've ordered some clear coat and will be applying that to my newly restored headlights this month.
Can anyone recommend a film product to apply over the clearcoat? Ideally it would be pre-cut for the Roadster headlight shape, but maybe I'm being unrealistic.
Are 2008-era Lotus Elise headlights exactly the same shape? Looking at photos of them online, they appear to be different.
DaveD
EVs Kick Gas!
Completely different body for the Elise, so I would be amazed if they're identical headlights.
They look pretty different to me...
wiztecy
Active Member
Here's a video that shows how to install an armor type of protectant. You typically make a template of what your covering and cut the armor from that template. Always follow manufacturers instructions.
It has been mentioned here and in other threads that owners have heard of the factory xenons peeling, but
I was wondering if this is fully confirmed? Anyone with factory xenons experience peeling or have seen on another car with
factory xenons?
A few datapoints to add to the thread:
1. Coatings (opticoat-cquartz,etc) with much better UV blocking (containing SiC / SiO2 etc) than clear films like paint armor/xpel, do not help. This goes in line with wiztecy's theory that it is the mechanical assistance of the paint armor - like films assist
in the preservation of the headlight film adhesion. I'm not quite sure how as the armor-like film is anchored to the headlight film that is peeling and there is minimal attachment at the edges. It may just stress relieve the headlight film.
2. As someone stated before the newer non-xenons definitely do peel. My car had headlights replaced in 2012 (it's a 2.0 with a 2009 build date..3-4 years), they just started to peel again..4-5 years later. The second time around the car saw also saw much less UV exposure
because of the way it was used. It did not seem to affect lifetime that much/at all, consistent with the non UV argument.
-Who has the set of headlights with the longest time period without peeling and what did you do? This is even more important
for all of us know if the best available factory xenons also peel...
Thanks!
I was wondering if this is fully confirmed? Anyone with factory xenons experience peeling or have seen on another car with
factory xenons?
A few datapoints to add to the thread:
1. Coatings (opticoat-cquartz,etc) with much better UV blocking (containing SiC / SiO2 etc) than clear films like paint armor/xpel, do not help. This goes in line with wiztecy's theory that it is the mechanical assistance of the paint armor - like films assist
in the preservation of the headlight film adhesion. I'm not quite sure how as the armor-like film is anchored to the headlight film that is peeling and there is minimal attachment at the edges. It may just stress relieve the headlight film.
2. As someone stated before the newer non-xenons definitely do peel. My car had headlights replaced in 2012 (it's a 2.0 with a 2009 build date..3-4 years), they just started to peel again..4-5 years later. The second time around the car saw also saw much less UV exposure
because of the way it was used. It did not seem to affect lifetime that much/at all, consistent with the non UV argument.
-Who has the set of headlights with the longest time period without peeling and what did you do? This is even more important
for all of us know if the best available factory xenons also peel...
Thanks!
smorgasbord
Active Member
I had peeling headlights, and since my DDMs were failing, I sprung for the HID upgrade. Looks great.
Now, what should I do to slow down future peeling of these headlights? Sylvania sells a kit that includes a UV block clear coat - would it be a bad idea to apply that to brand new headlights? Would putting Xpel or some PPF help or hurt?
Now, what should I do to slow down future peeling of these headlights? Sylvania sells a kit that includes a UV block clear coat - would it be a bad idea to apply that to brand new headlights? Would putting Xpel or some PPF help or hurt?
Similar threads
