Clivew
Member
These are the Porsche calipers I use on the brake kit I manufactured for my race car, sourced from the Porsche Motorsport department and used on the 911 Supercup race cars, as well as the road going GT3 RS models.
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performance brakes
- Thread starter burningchrome
- Start date
These are the Porsche calipers I use on the brake kit I manufactured for my race car, sourced from the Porsche Motorsport department and used on the 911 Supercup race cars, as well as the road going GT3 RS models.
D1001 is correct. Since Brembo supplies many OEM, they use the same pad sizes when appropriate to minimize tooling costs. The [D]1001 is one of the most common modern Brembo 4-piston caliper pads out there. You can see on Racing Brake and Porterfield's sites; they show the FMSI numbers. So, while there are a ton of front pad options out there, the issue is the seemingly unique rear pad. This makes matched mu pads an issue. As it stands ATM AFAIK, it's just RB, Carbotech, and whatever compound Unplugged's offering is for matched Performance sets.
Yep, I'm traveling right now so can't get to the box they shipped in that has the description/part number. The invoice labeled them as "Endless EX90". There are a few forum members tracking with these, here's a link to one of the threads discussing them.
beastmode13
Member
Endless EX90 is MSRP $390 per axel set, same price front or rear. I got a set for stock rear Performance and front Racing Brake 460 caliper which uses D1149 pad, more than double in size of the rear, but the same price.
Photo of the pads in comparison - Racing Brake XT910 vs XT970
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Clivew
Member
The calipers used to cost around £300 each from Porsche Motorsport, trade price, but then Porsche increased the price to around £850 per caliper. I did sell the whole kit for the Mitsubishi Evo, using cryo treated AP racing discs, my customs bells and brackets, Castrol SRF fluid, braided hoses, Carbotech XP10 pads, and temp monitoring on the calipers and discs for £2250 GBP.
Let me sneak a related question into this thread: what are you track guys doing to put the car on jack stands? The jack point mega thread is full of very risk averse people. On my BMW M3, I'd center jack on the subframe cradle; has anyone tried that?
Unless you need to get under the car, the 1.5 Ton Alum jack from harbor freight should be good enough. If you have to put the car on jack stand, then Home is probably the go to stands for Model 3
destructure00
Active Member
I've just been going one corner at a time. I put the car on stands once using two floor jacks and stands under the lower control arms and I almost dropped it bringing it back down. That was a pucker moment..
MasterC17
Active Member
This is absolutely, 100% correct. The D1001 Pad is a different shape!!
They are not plug and play and will end up in the wrong spot. They are otherwise basically the same, but the ears are not long enough on the D1001 so you will end up with the pad not making full contact with the rotor. It's a solid 5mm too, not something negligible. Apparently, I only took one (crappy) photo when I compared them back in February, but you can see the difference.
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MasterC17
Active Member
Yes, the 1001 pad design is on the bottom in that photo. Here's another to show the difference. The Pad RB sells IS different, as designated by the part number. You can also see it just by looking at the photo they provide (notably tall ears).
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