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Performance not getting 310 miles promised

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These things are hard to quantify accurately, but apples to apples (same weight wheels, exact same tire type, just wider tread width), the results should be worse.

As far as handling...yes, I think to get the car to rotate, more tire in the back is not really desirable especially for autocross. For public roads, of course it does not really matter. Not supposed to be rotating the car on public roads.

Definitely. I was expecting worse efficiency. Hard to quantify, but I’m assuming the lighter weight monoblock has helped. What I can say is that in my experience after 15k miles....I don’t see any noticeable negative effects on efficiency with my setup.

I’m all for keeping the shenanigans to the auto-x and track...although I do love a little drifting when the white stuff falls from the sky lol. I’d presume majority of the members on the forum don’t auto-x or track though...just don’t want them to shy away from staggered setups because they think the car will handle like crap.
 
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That’s......optimistic...

Remember that efficiency has improved since the early days, so this 20" Performance number of 299 is probably comparable to 285 miles of range in 2018. Which is probably reasonable if you drive 50 mph. (Obviously freeway range is closer to 240 miles max for Performance 20" even with the recent efficiency improvements since aero starts to dominate and that has not changed.)
 
That’s......optimistic...
I agree who drives 50 MPH, 75 to 80 MPH is really more realistic, that or sitting in freaking traffic (at least here in Metro DC area).

What I do know, is that lighter wheels and lighter tires do increase range. Those EPA stats above prove it.

Are you riding around on ~29 (28.75lbs to be exact before center cap, TPMS & wheel balance weights) pound boat anchor wheels (stock 20"'s), when you could drop ten pounds per corner with a quality mono block forged wheel and lighter tires-- do it and your range will increase. Period.

Get high efficiency rated tires (not sticky summers), and again your range will increase.

Drive like an azzhat, get azzhat range. It's really pretty simple.
 
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I agree who drives 50 MPH, 75 to 80 MPH is really more realistic, that or sitting in freaking traffic (at least here in Metro DC area).

What I do know, is that lighter wheels and lighter tires do increase range. Those EPA stats above prove it.

Are you riding around on ~29 (28.75lbs to be exact before center cap, TPMS & wheel balance weights) pound boat anchor wheels (stock 20"'s), when you could drop ten pounds per corner with a quality mono block forged wheel and lighter tires-- do it and your range will increase. Period.

Get high efficiency rated tires (not sticky summers), and again your range will increase.

Drive like an azzhat, get azzhat range. It's really pretty simple.
It just goes to show EPA testing is more or less a joke.

By the same token in our X3 M40i I’ve gotten as high as 35mpg at 70mph sustained with a light if consistent tailwind however 25mpg is closer to average.

I just feel that Tesla shouldn’t advertise range based on a full to the brim brand new battery. maybe the numbers won’t be as impressive but even throttling that number back to a rated 85%-90% charge as advertised would be more helpful to someone who’s looking to purchase one of these fine machines. Speaking of which, the model S LR is rated at over 370. Does anyone actually get that? Highly doubt it.
 
It just goes to show EPA testing is more or less a joke.

By the same token in our X3 M40i I’ve gotten as high as 35mpg at 70mph sustained with a light if consistent tailwind however 25mpg is closer to average.

I just feel that Tesla shouldn’t advertise range based on a full to the brim brand new battery. maybe the numbers won’t be as impressive but even throttling that number back to a rated 85%-90% charge as advertised would be more helpful to someone who’s looking to purchase one of these fine machines. Speaking of which, the model S LR is rated at over 370. Does anyone actually get that? Highly doubt it.
I wish they would do the following @40 you get this ,@50 you get this, @60 you get this, @70 etc... also show the impact of cold weather at those same speeds. Over 200K of driving Telsa's I don't even care about the range anymore, I don't pay for the power (home is solar, work is free)... I just enjoy driving this car hard for free!
 
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I wish they would do the following @40 you get this ,@50 you get this, @60 you get this, @70 etc... also show the impact of cold weather at those same speeds. Over 200K of driving Telsa's I don't even car about the range anymore, I don't pay for the power (home is solar, work is free)... I just enjoy driving this car hard for free!
Nice, Our electric rate isn’t too bad at 9c per kilowatt. Closest thing that I have to free charging is a Destiination charger half a mile from our house with 48 amp service.
 
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Nice, Our electric rate isn’t too bad at 9c per kilowatt. Closest thing that I have to free charging is a Destiination charger half a mile from our house with 48 amp service.
Damn 9 cents a kWH is cheap!!!, we pay 12 cents here. I think the poor bastards in the Peoples Democratic Republic of California pay a lot more. Just glad I don't live in HI (32) or PR (29)- note to self don't live on an island, or MA (22) or RI (22) or AK (21.7) or CT (21.5), those guys get screwed.
iu
 
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That's because of the market based rates paid for generation. Electricity is really very valuable at certain times. Even though the rate for Texas is listed as 11.51¢ I have a two year contract for 9¢ so prices can vary considerably. To muddy the water more there are COOPS and municipalities across the country that can charge different rates in their jurisdiction.
 
That's because of the market based rates paid for generation. Electricity is really very valuable at certain times. Even though the rate for Texas is listed as 11.51¢ I have a two year contract for 9¢ so prices can vary considerably. To muddy the water more there are COOPS and municipalities across the country that can charge different rates in their jurisdiction.
yeah I'm in the Xenoilphobe CO-OP our rate is zero (Solar) took me 5 years @$400 to pay it off though, essentially the price of a Honda Civic
 
I'll tell you what - I picked up my Model 3 in June, and had a few months of driving in the summer and I was very impressed with how accurate the range was, even when using the AC.

Now that the winter is here, and it's 20 degrees and I have to use the heat - I am simply floored at how poor the range is, it's like 100% worse, going 10 miles takes 20+ miles off the range. I used the car over the holidays, with 4 adults in the car and using the heat just a little, the range was like 50% of actual.
 
Damn 9 cents a kWH is cheap!!!, we pay 12 cents here. I think the poor bastards in the Peoples Democratic Republic of California pay a lot more. Just glad I don't live in HI (32) or PR (29)- note to self don't live on an island, or MA (22) or RI (22) or AK (21.7) or CT (21.5), those guys get screwed.
iu

That's a bit misleading, though, as this graphic clearly doesn't take into account varying prices. Most of the time electricity in Seattle is $0.13 per kWh. It's only $0.09 for the first couple of hundred kWh of usage.
 
I'll tell you what - I picked up my Model 3 in June, and had a few months of driving in the summer and I was very impressed with how accurate the range was, even when using the AC.

Now that the winter is here, and it's 20 degrees and I have to use the heat - I am simply floored at how poor the range is, it's like 100% worse, going 10 miles takes 20+ miles off the range. I used the car over the holidays, with 4 adults in the car and using the heat just a little, the range was like 50% of actual.

The more you drive the better it gets. On average over the whole winter I got 337 Wh/mi on my winter tires. That's around 21% increase in consumption. On snowy roads you can expect at least a 10-15% increase, and in the cold you can expect 5% easily.

Short drives are the highest consumption situation in the summer or the winter, but the winter makes it much worse.
 
its unreal to me you guys are getting 300-350 kWh/mi(have AWD LR)...I am getting 400-500 now...I drive aggressive but not crazy...this has gone up a decent amount after getting 20 inch wheels...and getting acceleration boost....havent seen 350 since I got acceleration boost.
 
Damn 9 cents a kWH is cheap!!!, we pay 12 cents here. I think the poor bastards in the Peoples Democratic Republic of California pay a lot more. Just glad I don't live in HI (32) or PR (29)- note to self don't live on an island, or MA (22) or RI (22) or AK (21.7) or CT (21.5), those guys get screwed.
iu
Unless you have a time of use plan (which can cause other electrical uses to cost more) - you have to take these rates as Tier 1. If you have a house and use a decent amount of electricity, you will easily get to Tier 2 or higher. Add an EV to that, and you need to look at its cost as Tier 2 (or higher) as it is usage over and beyond what you normally use.

Tier 2 (and higher) rates tend to be very punitive. The cost of jumping to the next tier can be easily 50% more than its lower tier. So all these rates can be much higher. It depends on the state.
 
Damn 9 cents a kWH is cheap!!!, we pay 12 cents here. I think the poor bastards in the Peoples Democratic Republic of California pay a lot more. Just glad I don't live in HI (32) or PR (29)- note to self don't live on an island, or MA (22) or RI (22) or AK (21.7) or CT (21.5), those guys get screwed.

This graphic is highly misleading as it is presenting some type of weighted average for each state. In California we have many different utilities and rate types. I charge my car (12PM-6AM) right now at about $.10/kWh. It will be a bit higher in summer.
 
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