Performance not getting 310 miles promised

[ibGeek]

So I went to sleep around 11pm with 181 miles and sentry off, when I woke up at 7am I was down to 175. Is this normal? It seems like a pretty decent drain.

With Sentry mode on, you can loose 2 to 4 miles per hour. But with it off, no. Your car should have gone in to deep sleep and there should have been very little if any drain. That is unless your car was up/downloading data. There are some updates floating about. seems excessive to me though.

You'd mentioned before that you were uncomfortable with 3rd. party connectivity to your car. That is completely understandable but Tesla's API is done very well. I recommend that you consider trying TeslaFi.com. They have a free trial. You can get a LOT of information about what your car is doing from it. TeslaFi never gets your Tesla password. Telsa gets the password and then passes a token to TeslaFi that says they are allowed to get telemetry. That way if you change your password, all coms are severed.

 

[mmiketa]

With Sentry mode on, you can loose 2 to 4 miles per hour. But with it off, no. Your car should have gone in to deep sleep and there should have been very little if any drain. That is unless your car was up/downloading data. There are some updates floating about. seems excessive to me though.

You'd mentioned before that you were uncomfortable with 3rd. party connectivity to your car. That is completely understandable but Tesla's API is done very well. I recommend that you consider trying TeslaFi.com. They have a free trial. You can get a LOT of information about what your car is doing from it. TeslaFi never gets your Tesla password. Telsa gets the password and then passes a token to TeslaFi that says they are allowed to get telemetry. That way if you change your password, all coms are severed.

That wasn't me that mentioned that. I am most likely going to try either TeslaFi or TeslaScope. Definitely wanna see where the drain came from, this was the first time I didn't plug it in at night.

 

[ibGeek]

That wasn't me that mentioned that. I am most likely going to try either TeslaFi or TeslaScope. Definitely wanna see where the drain came from, this was the first time I didn't plug it in at night.

Oops your right. Haven't seen TeslaScope, will give that a look. I started with Tesla Control, then moved to TeslaFi. Control has a free option but I find it limited and there really hasn't been any development. TeslaFi bombards you with data that can be a little overwhelming at first but it's very helpful.

 

[mmiketa]

Oops your right. Haven't seen TeslaScope, will give that a look. I started with Tesla Control, then moved to TeslaFi. Control has a free option but I find it limited and there really hasn't been any development. TeslaFi bombards you with data that can be a little overwhelming at first but it's very helpful.

So I have been at work for 7 hours and have lost 13 miles, but sentry mode is enabled. That sound about right? I am gonna disable sentry mode at work and see what that does tomorrow.

 

[Dan_LA]

Anyone had charged P3D+ 100% and used most of battery have a Screen Shot to share about the 70ish kwh consumed? Mine now at 49kwh consumed and with 20% charge left, already in Yellow Color. Thinking how to drain the remaining 20% safely.

 

[ibGeek]

So I have been at work for 7 hours and have lost 13 miles, but sentry mode is enabled. That sound about right? I am gonna disable sentry mode at work and see what that does tomorrow.

Yep, I've actually seen higher loses. But you should loose next to nothing with it off as long as you don't have any form of climate control "Max Temp" on.

 

[Dan_LA]

Ok, apparently 4 technicians checked my car wirelessly. And they keep stating there is nothing wrong. They stated the facts:

1-) That ALL Model 3 are manufactured with 1 single OEM Battery part that is the same on ALL Model 3, that the range is software imposed. Can someone confirm that? ALL INTERNET says otherwise.

2-) That I was with AC super cold at 71. i asked it AC consumption is included on the trip meter, he said yes.

My point is, i can only use 55-58kwh of my car. Not sure what to go from here. Just still pissed with a 215 miles car, advertised as 310 miles.

Most likely look attorney and file complain with general attorney.

 

[RobDickinson]

1-) That ALL Model 3 are manufactured with 1 single OEM Battery part that is the same on ALL Model 3, that the range is software imposed. Can someone confirm that? ALL INTERNET says otherwise.

That is obviously BS as the SR/SR+ have 55kwh batteries(60 actual) and are significantly lighter than the LR RWD

 

[JeffK]

1-) That ALL Model 3 are manufactured with 1 single OEM Battery part that is the same on ALL Model 3, that the range is software imposed. Can someone confirm that? ALL INTERNET says otherwise.

They are not the same OEM part numbers per the Model 3 parts catalog and per reality.

What does the car say for range when charged to 100%? What is your typical usage / mile?

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

Ok, apparently 4 technicians checked my car wirelessly. And they keep stating there is nothing wrong. They stated the facts:

1-) That ALL Model 3 are manufactured with 1 single OEM Battery part that is the same on ALL Model 3, that the range is software imposed. Can someone confirm that? ALL INTERNET says otherwise.

2-) That I was with AC super cold at 71. i asked it AC consumption is included on the trip meter, he said yes.

My point is, i can only use 55-58kwh of my car. Not sure what to go from here. Just still pissed with a 215 miles car, advertised as 310 miles.

Most likely look attorney and file complain with general attorney.

Could you let us know: How many rated miles you have right now, at what %? That's the easiest way to determine your approximate battery health. So just look at the rated miles, switch to %, and report here.

A good battery will have ~279 rmi @ 90% (many cars have recently gone to more like 272 rmi @90%, but it's probably temporary).

The car does not count usage while in Park. Also you have a P3D+, so 220 miles on the freeway is what you should expect for a perfectly functioning vehicle. If you drive that continuously on the freeway, with no elevation gain, no stopping, I expect you'll see something along the lines of 65 "kWh" of consumption.

If you want:
Put car in drive, make a note of the miles & the %, and do a fairly long, continuous drive. Do 150 miles at least, do not stop. Do not put in Park. You really can't stop.

Report:
Wh/mi, miles traveled, the starting rated miles & %, and the final rated miles (and % if you want). We can then figure out your battery health and overall approximate available energy. This isn't really necessary, but it's a little more info than just rated miles & %. Maybe on your next trip to Vegas...

A brand new car appears to have about ~71-72 "kWh" available for a full discharge from 310 to 0. They're meter kWh, so they may not be actual kWh.

The only thing that is relevant is to compare kWh available to other vehicles - the actual "kWh" displayed doesn't really reflect anything important in an absolute sense because it's not calibrated. I haven't seen any reports of any vehicles showing more than about 72 "kWh" for a full discharge, assuming that the net elevation gain was not negative, of course (elevation is like having extra battery capacity, and it's a way you can get the meter to display more than 72 "kWh," since last charge, in rare situations).

 

[ibGeek]

That is obviously BS as the SR/SR+ have 55kwh batteries(60 actual) and are significantly lighter than the LR RWD

The tech you spoke to was wrong. You need to work your way further up the food chain until you get someone competent.
And for the record, my AC is on ALWAYS and this reduces my range by maybe 5/10 miles on average. I keep mine at 72 f.
I just did a 205 Mile trip in 105F weather with the AC set to 72 in my SR+ without a single issue. Point to point, no charging along the way.

Even if they now are just software locking the battery, they are doing it wrong on your car. Except NO other answer than there is something wrong.

 

[Dan_LA]

Could you let us know: How many rated miles you have right now, at what %? That's the easiest way to determine your approximate battery health. So just look at the rated miles, switch to %, and report here.

A good battery will have ~279 rmi @ 90% (many cars have recently gone to more like 272 rmi @90%, but it's probably temporary).

The car does not count usage while in Park. Also you have a P3D+, so 220 miles on the freeway is what you should expect for a perfectly functioning vehicle. If you drive that continuously on the freeway, with no elevation gain, I expect you'll see something along the lines of 65 "kWh" of consumption.

If you want:
Put car in drive, make a note of the miles & the %, and do a fairly long, continuous drive. Do 150 miles at least, do not stop. Do not put in Park. You really can't stop.

Report:
Wh/mi, miles traveled, the starting rated miles & %, and the final rated miles (and % if you want). We can then figure out your battery health and overall approximate available energy. This isn't really necessary, but it's a little more info than just rated miles & %. Maybe on your next trip to Vegas...

A brand new car appears to have about ~71-72 "kWh" available for a full discharge from 310 to 0. They're meter kWh, so they may not be actual kWh.

The only thing that is relevant is to compare kWh available to other vehicles - the actual "kWh" displayed doesn't really reflect anything important in an absolute sense because it's not calibrated. I haven't seen any reports of any vehicles showing more than about 72 "kWh" for a full discharge, assuming that the net elevation gain was not negative, of course (elevation is like having extra battery capacity, and it's a way you can get the meter to display more than 72 "kWh," since last charge, in rare situations).

here at 5%, I can't go lower than that I drive around with my kids. 203.6 miles driven on chill mode, 57 kwh consumed and 5% left. That's a freaking 60kwh battery and they have the guts to call me and assure that ALL MODEL 3 EVER MANUFACTURED has the same OEM BATTERY CAPACITY that the range is limited by software.

 

[RobDickinson]

As I said you might have a LR battery but one module might not be working?

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

here at 5%, I can't go lower than that I drive around with my kids. 203.6 miles driven on chill mode, 57 kwh consumed and 5% left. That's a freaking 60kwh battery and they have the guts to call me and assure that ALL MODEL 3 EVER MANUFACTURED has the same OEM BATTERY CAPACITY that the range is limited by software.

When was the last time you charged? What % did you charge to? Did you spend any time sitting in the car in Park? Did you use Sentry Mode? Do you use Cabin Overheat Protection?

You're missing my point here - the car does not count usage spent in Park - which can be considerable!

Charge your car to 80 or 90% and report the % AND the rated miles.

While energy used in Park over multiple days is relevant for EFFICIENCY, it's not relevant for RANGE. This is because usually (there are rare exceptions) when range matters, you do it all in one shot and there is no time spent in Park.

I'm not saying there is nothing wrong with your battery - but we need more information.

 

[JeffK]

here at 5%, I can't go lower than that I drive around with my kids. 203.6 miles driven on chill mode, 57 kwh consumed and 5% left. That's a freaking 60kwh battery and they have the guts to call me and assure that ALL MODEL 3 EVER MANUFACTURED has the same OEM BATTERY CAPACITY that the range is limited by software.


View attachment 441529

Yeah, we really need to see what it claims at higher number.

@279 Wh/mi at 90% SoC you should be getting a real world range of around 241 miles. (75000 * 0.90) / 279

I'm also talking about charging it to 90% and driving it straight away, no parking, etc. Also remember that if you charge it to 100% and it reads less than 217 rated miles then it should be eligible for warranty replacement.

 

[justabrake]

My only concern is that it looks like they retrofitted a Mid Range and tried to convert to Performance... is the battery the only thing different? I'm concerned about motor as it shown some issues 2 times when front motor was temporarily disabled.

Try this part one and two and it'll explain the old model 3 and the new model 3 batteries
Part 1 .

Part 2

 

[Dan_LA]

Could you let us know: How many rated miles you have right now, at what %? That's the easiest way to determine your approximate battery health. So just look at the rated miles, switch to %, and report here.

A good battery will have ~279 rmi @ 90% (many cars have recently gone to more like 272 rmi @90%, but it's probably temporary).

The car does not count usage while in Park. Also you have a P3D+, so 220 miles on the freeway is what you should expect for a perfectly functioning vehicle. If you drive that continuously on the freeway, with no elevation gain, no stopping, I expect you'll see something along the lines of 65 "kWh" of consumption.

If you want:
Put car in drive, make a note of the miles & the %, and do a fairly long, continuous drive. Do 150 miles at least, do not stop. Do not put in Park. You really can't stop.

Report:
Wh/mi, miles traveled, the starting rated miles & %, and the final rated miles (and % if you want). We can then figure out your battery health and overall approximate available energy. This isn't really necessary, but it's a little more info than just rated miles & %. Maybe on your next trip to Vegas...

A brand new car appears to have about ~71-72 "kWh" available for a full discharge from 310 to 0. They're meter kWh, so they may not be actual kWh.

The only thing that is relevant is to compare kWh available to other vehicles - the actual "kWh" displayed doesn't really reflect anything important in an absolute sense because it's not calibrated. I haven't seen any reports of any vehicles showing more than about 72 "kWh" for a full discharge, assuming that the net elevation gain was not negative, of course (elevation is like having extra battery capacity, and it's a way you can get the meter to display more than 72 "kWh," since last charge, in rare situations).

Alan, really appreciate your suggestion and I will do the 150 miles trip test some morning, so I drive 150 miles on D and do not park and Screen Shot the trip info? I need to have this figure out before I file a claim with CA Attorney General and/or put on Internet.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

@279 Wh/mi at 90% SoC you should be getting a real world range of around 241 miles. (75000 * 0.90) / 279

I think that's overstating it slightly. The displayed Wh/rmi constant appears to be close to 230Wh/rmi (for the AWD - not for SR or LR RWD) every time I have looked at it. (Note this does not say anything about actual battery capacity, which of course is close to 78kWh. (Real kWh.) )

So for a full capacity battery at 90% (279 rmi):

230Wh/rmi / (279Wh/mi) * 279rmi = 230mi (to 0%)

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

Alan, really appreciate your suggestion and I will do the 150 miles trip test some morning, so I drive 150 miles on D and do not park and Screen Shot the trip info? I need to have this figure out before I file a claim with CA Attorney General and/or put on Internet.

As I said, this is NOT necessary - but it is useful for establishing your real world range, at some point. But yes, that's what you would need to do, but you need all those numbers: Screen capture the Trip info (and since Last Charge for good measure) and the initial and final rated miles, and the initial and final %.

All we really need to know, right now, is: At 80% or 90% charge, how many rated miles does your car indicate?

 

[Dan_LA]

They are not the same OEM part numbers per the Model 3 parts catalog and per reality.

What does the car say for range when charged to 100%? What is your typical usage / mile?

It said 300 miles range when it was 100% Saturday morning August 10.... My typical usage is 320-350 wh/mi ... lifetime is at 320 wh/mi.

So today august 13 as you could see above.. 203 miles driven, 57kwh, 279 wh/mi .... on CHILL mode... sentry mode off, AC at 71-73, it's HOT in Chino Hills, right next to Diamond Bar. Batter showing 5% left... now I had to put to charge and will check how much kwh is charged, not sure if we can check that.

Thanks for the OEM thing... definitely will help. So much BS from Tesla.