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Performance "Plus" Option?

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Of course not.

The Polestar 2 Performance package comes with forged 20" wheels, Ohlins coil-overs, Brembos, & a bit more power.

That's a proper performance package.

I don't want sh*tty 21' cast wheels.
And it's still significantly slower than the MYP :) I agree though, they have the right idea on what the actual content should be.
 
And it's still significantly slower than the MYP :) I agree though, they have the right idea on what the actual content should be.

I haven't been able to locate a proper tight race track/ autoX/ or even canyon carving comparison between a M3P vs. a PS2 with a Performance package. If you have one, please link it. Obviously this sort of comparison isn't about 0-60s or range.

That said this sort of track feel performance is as much about feedback and feel as it is lap times. For most people, the feel is much more important than outright speed.

I think paying $8K for a computer program and some cheap cast wheels that are worse than the base wheels, is a rip off personally. But I've spent my own money, thousands of dollars worth, to buy coil-overs, Forged wheels (I greatly dislike 21" wheels btw, it's just not a performance tire size), and Brembos. To me, as someone that has spent considerable time at the race track, and the canyons, these are important modifications. And as a $5K option, it's a good value.

Personally I like those sort of high end components, even if the base of the M3P is a faster platform. Of course those components on the faster starting platform is even better.
 
I haven't been able to locate a proper tight race track/ autoX/ or even canyon carving comparison between a M3P vs. a PS2 with a Performance package. If you have one, please link it. Obviously this sort of comparison isn't about 0-60s or range.

That said this sort of track feel performance is as much about feedback and feel as it is lap times. For most people, the feel is much more important than outright speed.

I think paying $8K for a computer program and some cheap cast wheels that are worse than the base wheels, is a rip off personally. But I've spent my own money, thousands of dollars worth, to buy coil-overs, Forged wheels (I greatly dislike 21" wheels btw, it's just not a performance tire size), and Brembos. To me, as someone that has spent considerable time at the race track, and the canyons, these are important modifications. And as a $5K option, it's a good value.

Personally I like those sort of high end components, even if the base of the M3P is a faster platform. Of course those components on the faster starting platform is even better.

Here is an on track test of a PS2 with PP.

As an owner of both a M3P and now a PS2, I prefer less curb weight and more accurate feeling steering of the Tesla.

Most factory suspension setups
leave a lot to be desired from my experience on track, so the Tesla advantages (thermal management, steering) are large ones IMO as replacing the suspension is the first order of business for most cars converted to track duty in my experience.
 
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Here is an on track test of a PS2 with PP.

As an owner of both a M3P and now a PS2, I prefer less curb weight and more accurate feeling steering of the Tesla.

Must factory suspension setups
leave a lot to be desired from my experience on track, so the seemly Tesla advantages (thermal management, steering) are large ones as replacing the suspension is the first order of business for most cars converted to track duty in my experience.
Cool video. I was more focused on the public day to day use performance instead of off road track use. 99.99% Tesla or any other EV owners will not track their car.
 
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Great, I wasn’t responding to you. As an aside, I’ve also bent 3 cast wheels on my Tesla MP3 vs. 0 forged wheels on both a GT-R and PS2 on the same roads to address your statements directly.
sorry, but you really can't compare those situation. different car, weight, different condition, and everything else. The only thing that you can compare is that all those cars have 4 wheels and tires.
Try all those cars with same road, same pot hole, same speed, same weight, etc and report back.
 
sorry, but you really can't compare those situation. different car, weight, different condition, and everything else. The only thing that you can compare is that all those cars have 4 wheels and tires.
Try all those cars with same road, same pot hole, same speed, same weight, etc and report back.
They are were all driven on the same roads and have similar curb weights.

I also have bent zero wheels after swapping to forged on my MP3.

Again, ON THE SAME ROADS.
 

Here is an on track test of a PS2 with PP.

As an owner of both a M3P and now a PS2, I prefer less curb weight and more accurate feeling steering of the Tesla.

Most factory suspension setups
leave a lot to be desired from my experience on track, so the Tesla advantages (thermal management, steering) are large ones IMO as replacing the suspension is the first order of business for most cars converted to track duty in my experience.

That was a great video and the fact that the PS2 acquitted itself so well at the 'ring is impressive to me. He was complimentary regarding several aspects such as braking, balance, suspension feel & cooling.

I haven't been to the track in about 3 years now and truthfully those days are probably behind me. That said, I really enjoy a sporty great handling car to hit the canyons in, from time to time.

I'm on a waiting list for the PS3 for my wife and if they offer a Performance Package, I'm adding that without my wife's knowledge!

What do you think of your Polestar in general? Can you provide any input on build quality & resale value or is it just too soon? I'm mostly concerned with getting smoked on resale value, just because of the brand.

Thanks.
 
Tesla wheels are very cheap. My 18" Aeros were cast improperly, and the worst one required at least 3oz of weights to balance with new tires every time. The outside of the wheel was round, and the spokes weren't centered within it. I see this stuff with cheap Chinese Tire Rack wheels all the time, never OEM wheels.

There is no argument to be made for defending Tesla wheels. They are cheap painted basic alloy wheels.
 
Tesla wheels are very cheap. My 18" Aeros were cast improperly, and the worst one required at least 3oz of weights to balance with new tires every time. The outside of the wheel was round, and the spokes weren't centered within it. I see this stuff with cheap Chinese Tire Rack wheels all the time, never OEM wheels.

There is no argument to be made for defending Tesla wheels. They are cheap painted basic alloy wheels.
so, your wheels were cast improperly (all of them or just a few?) and now all Tesla wheels are junk? My 21 Ubers have no issue, so all Tesla wheels are now good? Do you see where I am going?
I am not saying Tesla wheels are king and all forged ones are bad. All I am trying to say is that Tesla OEM wheels or any OEM wheels are more than enough for 99.99% cars on the public road for daily use.
When you say you bent 3 oem Tesla wheels, but none of the forged different car wheels, it doesn't prove anything. My engineering/physics professors will slap me with fat "F" grade if I perform any test/experiment setting like this. Unless you can compare OEM wheels and forged wheels on your Tesla same day, time, same road, same spot, same pothole, same speed, same weight, etc. Until then, your claim is just a theory.

By the way, the majority wheels sold in the US even the forged/flow formed ones are made in China or nearby Asian countries.
 
Just stop.

You are clueless when it comes to the advantages of performance wheels and why they matter.
sonny, why are you here? Seriously.

You polluted the Y vs Ionic thread with a lot of trollish garbage despite owning neither, or even an EV at all. You're on the wait list for a number of other brands, but here you are, running your mouth again.

In 2024, you may be a happy owner of another brand. And actually have useful experience and knowledge to contribute.
 
sonny, why are you here? Seriously.

You polluted the Y vs Ionic thread with a lot of trollish garbage despite owning neither, or even an EV at all. You're on the wait list for a number of other brands, but here you are, running your mouth again.

In 2024, you may be a happy owner of another brand. And actually have useful experience and knowledge to contribute.
So, I have been trying to engage civil and reasonable conversation/discussion with the person who doesn't even own an EV??? ☹️☹️
How much is he getting paid by the legacy auto marketing teams? =)
 
so, your wheels were cast improperly (all of them or just a few?) and now all Tesla wheels are junk? My 21 Ubers have no issue, so all Tesla wheels are now good? Do you see where I am going?
I am not saying Tesla wheels are king and all forged ones are bad. All I am trying to say is that Tesla OEM wheels or any OEM wheels are more than enough for 99.99% cars on the public road for daily use.
When you say you bent 3 oem Tesla wheels, but none of the forged different car wheels, it doesn't prove anything. My engineering/physics professors will slap me with fat "F" grade if I perform any test/experiment setting like this. Unless you can compare OEM wheels and forged wheels on your Tesla same day, time, same road, same spot, same pothole, same speed, same weight, etc. Until then, your claim is just a theory.

By the way, the majority wheels sold in the US even the forged/flow formed ones are made in China or nearby Asian countries.
Irony:

I was referring to my 2019 MP3 performance regarding bent wheels.

Tesla redesigned the wheels for 2021. (Wider, from my understanding from my time in wheel studios can equal stronger wheels from an impact perspective with variables as you've pointedly noted.)

But-and I only have worked in automotive production programs for over 20 years, so I'd love for you to educate us here-from my understanding is that lower profile tires, such as the ones found on the 'Performance' MYs put extra stresses on a wheel as less sidewall for cushioning.

The M3P, which I specifically mentioned, had those wheels redesigned to wider versions. i.e. 'X' axis. The design of the wheels has a lot to do with the strength of it, and forged wheels from OEMs tend to focus on certain impact aspects as there is more budget to design, test, and engineer them as the expectation is that customers who are going to shell out more for them are going to 'want' that added capability. There are some drivers who (I'm one of them) who prefer the 'feel' of forged wheels on track on on my favorite stretches of roads. Apparently there are others in this thread that prefer that as well, and that's OK.

There will be those who have an acceleration boost added to their Teslas and forgo the brake and wheel package all together. They can make the argument that anyone who doesn't like the LR brakes and tires don't need them for XX.XX% of public roads. And that's OK.

Such is choice.
 
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So, I have been trying to engage civil and reasonable conversation/discussion with the person who doesn't even own an EV??? ☹️☹️
How much is he getting paid by the legacy auto marketing teams? =)
in the Ionic thread he claimed to be on WL for the 'CT for me & Lyriq for my wife.' But here it's now the Polestar3 for his wife? Or could be both - the best thing one can do for non Teslas is get on a lot of lists.
 
Purely speculative here, but knowing that Tesla still likely has some "room" left on the 2170s along with their proclivity for monetization, how many of you would pony up another 5-10k to unlock a "Performance Plus" boost for your MYPs? I figure this could include the much talked about track mode along with a bump in performance obviously. This would also provide some degree of differentiation for MYP owners that are more enthusiast minded.

Again, just having some fun here, but I have to assume that this would be a slam dunk for Tesla and a pretty easy task at that.
on the main question- at what point would existing Y owners feel like they're being milked excessively? Do we really need a Performance Plus? And would it make any sense to confuse the SKU picture any further?

track mode seems unnecessary- this is the wrong car for that. I wouldn't mind the g force readout though.
 
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on the main question- at what point would existing Y owners feel like they're being milked excessively? Do we really need a Performance Plus? And would it make any sense to confuse the SKU picture any further?

track mode seems unnecessary- this is the wrong car for that. I wouldn't mind the g force readout though.
I want the track mode. You can adjust the front and rear motor bias 100% either way, Stability control adjustment, and regen braking adjustment among other track stuff. You can actually use these three features for the daily driving for different condition/situation.
 
I want the track mode. You can adjust the front and rear motor bias 100% either way, Stability control adjustment, and regen braking adjustment among other track stuff. You can actually use these three features for the daily driving for different condition/situation.
fair enough. But should you have to pay for such control? Would you?