Performance vs. Performance Upgrade - Confused

[jmatero]

Hoping the experts here can help clear up some confusion regarding the Performance model.

When you select the performance model, the price is $56,990 and the appearance is identical to any other Model 3 - areo wheels, etc. You can then select the "Performance Upgrade" option which does not change the price but adds:

• Performance Brakes
• Carbon fiber spoiler
• Lowered suspension
• Aluminum alloy pedals
• Increased top speed from 145mph to 162mph
• Track Mode
• Range decrease from 322 to 299 miles

Also, while there is no mention of it, the image of the car also shows large (20"?) wheels. Is the "Performance Upgrade" option a no-cost option? Or is there an issue with the configurator? By Selecting the Performance without checking the upgrade, it appears you're ordering the stealth which used to be $2,000 more than the AWD long range vs the $8000 it is now.

 

[Knightshade]

The P3D- and the P3D+ are now the same price.... (the same price the P3D+ was previously)

So essentially you now have the option to actually order a P3D- (last year you could only get one by taking delivery from inventory for a lower than P3D+ price) but you now have to pay the same as the P3D+ to do so.

Also it appears (maybe- this bit is unclear) that P3D- cars purchased this way won't get track mode.

 

[XLR82XS]

Stop the +/- already. There are performance and stealth.

 

[Knightshade]

Stop the +/- already. There are performance and stealth.

They're +/- because

A) It's either + the performance upgrade pack or - that option
and
B) it's way shorter to type to convey exactly the same info


BOTH are performance, so using that name for the P3D+ makes 0 sense.

 

[Dolemite]

Anyone else think that Tesla is simply running an experiment? Can’t imagine why someone would pass up the hardware when you could just pawn it off and pocket the difference.

 

[XLR82XS]

They're +/- because

A) It's either + the performance upgrade pack or - that option
and
B) it's way shorter to type to convey exactly the same info


BOTH are performance, so using that name for the P3D+ makes 0 sense.

That's not what I meant......

 

[CyberTruckNuts]

As a P3D- owner, something that I was thinking about today is what would happen if my car was totaled? My purchase price was about $6K lower than it is today. Would insurance only provide the depreciated value on the original purchase price or the new (replacement) price?

 

[Knightshade]

Anyone else think that Tesla is simply running an experiment? Can’t imagine why someone would pass up the hardware when you could just pawn it off and pocket the difference.

Guess that depends on how much you'd actually get for the 20s and then cost to put 18s on, versus time/trouble to do it.

As I mentioned in the other thread I'd expect most folks moving TO 20s would want something better than the boat anchors the P3D+ comes with so they wouldn't pay a ton of the OEM wheels but haven't looked into it much.

 

[Dolemite]

Guess that depends on how much you'd actually get for the 20s and then cost to put 18s on, versus time/trouble to do it.

As I mentioned in the other thread I'd expect most folks moving TO 20s would want something better than the boat anchors the P3D+ comes with so they wouldn't pay a ton of the OEM wheels but haven't looked into it much.

That was my thinking & the reason I got a P3D-. If you know what to do and you're handy with a wrench, you can build a better car for the price difference. But I'm not sure it'd be as easy/profitable now if someone wanted to part out a P3D+.

 

[Ryephile]

Stop the +/- already. There are performance and stealth.

"Stealth" is not an official Tesla branding name either; stop gatekeeping how people refer to their cars.

 

[Gondi63]

As a P3D- owner, something that I was thinking about today is what would happen if my car was totaled? My purchase price was about $6K lower than it is today. Would insurance only provide the depreciated value on the original purchase price or the new (replacement) price?

My P3D+ was totaled 6 months ago. They look at comps, so other cars being sold which meet the specs of your vehicle, adjusted for your mileage.

Add-ons are then depreciated, including things like FSD, etc.

 

[OCR1]

Well, we could call it “Model 3 Performance with the Performance Upgrade Package” but it takes a really long time to type it all out.

 

[bandwagon]

Can’t you still get the “Acceleration Boost” for the LR AWD - so, that would be the ‘new’ -/stealth @ the same $2k pricing

The no cost “Performance Upgrade” gives buyers a choice if they don’t really want the brakes and suspension changes, etc - although I don’t really understand why anyone would spend the extra money for the Performance model without them

 

[Knightshade]

Can’t you still get the “Acceleration Boost” for the LR AWD - so, that would be the ‘new’ -/stealth @ the same $2k pricing

Yes you can still get it- but it does not make the car the equivalent of the P3D- it only gets you halfway there.

The P3D- is still the P3D- (well, depending what turns out to happen with track mode I guess) it just costs more than 2k extra now. It still costs LESS "more" than the LR AWD when compared to summer of 2018 though (it was a roughly $11,000 upgrade back then)

The no cost “Performance Upgrade” gives buyers a choice if they don’t really want the brakes and suspension changes, etc - although I don’t really understand why anyone would spend the extra money for the Performance model without them

They want the quicker acceleration but don't want 20" wheels and would rather do their own, better, brake/suspension upgrades.

 

[TLLMRRJ]

They want the quicker acceleration but don't want 20" wheels and would rather do their own, better, brake/suspension upgrades.

"They" in your case are the ones that definitely should NOT be buying a Performance without the PUP. If They are planning to disassemble the suspension and brakes and change wheels, They would be much smarter to purchase the PUP and sell those extra parts for a handsome profit after replacing them.

The only They's that should be buying the Stealth at the price of the Performance are the ones that don't want the factory upgrades and are too lazy to sell off those factory upgrades.

It's really a bad economic choice to buy the Stealth right now. Even if you just want 18" wheels, they have aftermarket 18" that fix over the bigger brakes that look better than the factory 18's, and you'll definitely make money selling the 20's over the cost of those 18's.

 

[Knightshade]

"They" in your case are the ones that definitely should NOT be buying a Performance without the PUP. If They are planning to disassemble the suspension and brakes and change wheels, They would be much smarter to purchase the PUP and sell those extra parts for a handsome profit after replacing them.

This is nonsense.

Who is going to pay much at all for OEM "performance" brakes since they're a huge pain to swap on a non-P, and not that great compared to aftermarket options?

And times 10 for the suspension bits that are barely an "upgrade" at all- oooh! A whole 0.39 inch drop! THAT SURE SEEMS SWAPPING MY WHOLE FACTORY SUSPENSION TO GAIN INSTEAD OF ACTUAL WORTHWHILE PARTS!


Likewise the OEM 20s are heavy, dent prone boat anchors you're not gonna get a ton for, and you've now limited your options for putting 18s on the car to boot... (the OEM 18s don't fit the P3D+ at all for example).

Plus you'll need to front the $ for all that to get the stock parts off before you can go look for buyers too.

With the P3D- you at least already HAVE the size wheel you want from the factory (and a ton more aftermarket choices if you want different ones than the P3D+ has).


I guess If you wanna scrounge around to try and get a couple hundred extra bucks knock yourself out I guess, but seems a huge pain for very little return and a lot of wasted time.

 

[TLLMRRJ]

This is nonsense.

Who is going to pay much at all for OEM "performance" brakes since they're a huge pain to swap on a non-P, and not that great compared to aftermarket options?

And times 10 for the suspension bits that are barely an "upgrade" at all- oooh! A whole 0.39 inch drop! THAT SURE SEEMS SWAPPING MY WHOLE FACTORY SUSPENSION TO GAIN INSTEAD OF ACTUAL WORTHWHILE PARTS!


Likewise the OEM 20s are heavy, dent prone boat anchors you're not gonna get a ton for, and you've now limited your options for putting 18s on the car to boot... (the OEM 18s don't fit the P3D+ at all for example).

Plus you'll need to front the $ for all that to get the stock parts off before you can go look for buyers too.

With the P3D- you at least already HAVE the size wheel you want from the factory (and a ton more aftermarket choices if you want different ones than the P3D+ has).


I guess If you wanna scrounge around to try and get a couple hundred extra bucks knock yourself out I guess, but seems a huge pain for very little return and a lot of wasted time.

Everything you just said is nonsense.

 

[tvad]

Hoping the experts here can help clear up some confusion regarding the Performance model.

I've read every post, and I'm more confused than I was before.

 

[SK360]

Everything you just said is nonsense.

Sure are some little man syndrome "stealth" owners around here it seems.

 

[WilliamG]

Everything you just said is nonsense.

Yeah total nonsense. You can sell the 20” wheels for ~$2.5k without much trouble, for one thing. And many of us love the OEM-look wheels and have ZERO issues with them.