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Phone call unsuccessful & later results in no audio for many minutes

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Hi,

Got my tesla x two weeks back and have already encountered this issue 3 times (among 5 calls I made). Screen shows that the call is connected but both parties are unable to hear anything. On disconnecting the phone, the audio (both FM or Tune-in) stops working for many minutes. Couple of times the call has gone through without any issues.

Not sure if this is a "known feature".

Also encountered screen freeze while driving yesterday and had to do hard reset before the car would lock. One question regarding this freeze - would it have impacted my driving capability had I been using the autopilot features?

Thanks.
 
My car was in at the service center about 10 days ago, and I saw that they did a software update. And sure enough, I've been having that trouble too. REALLY irritating to be listening to something, get a call, and then the sound system audio won't come back. I could sometimes get the call audio to come through by hitting the Bluetooth button on the phone, seeing that I can choose between headset and Tesla, clicking Tesla (or headset), and THEN be able to talk. Does seem to be related to latest software update. :mad:
 
Software versions? @ThisIsTrue is probably on 17.36... Perhaps same for @SanJose32 but we really need to have versions to talk about issues. :D

Not seen posts about this recently, so, definitely could be a new bug.....

SanJose, I know you can reboot without issue if you are driving. Not sure about if AP will still continue to function *through* an MCU (large screen) or ICU (small screen) reboot.
 
Software versions? @ThisIsTrue is probably on 17.36... Perhaps same for @SanJose32 but we really need to have versions to talk about issues. :D

Not seen posts about this recently, so, definitely could be a new bug.....

SanJose, I know you can reboot without issue if you are driving. Not sure about if AP will still continue to function *through* an MCU (large screen) or ICU (small screen) reboot.
 
In order to reboot, I was told by the roadside assistance person to hold both steering wheel buttons down and also press the break. Not sure how I can press the break while driving?

I am on SW version 2017.36 1b27c6d
Sorry, I wasn't clear, you don't need to be driving. I meant that rebooting (like if the car does it) won't kill you if it happens while you are driving. Usually you do it when at home, in the garage or whatever. And the only part of the firmware we need is 17.36. The rest is redundant (we know what year it is, and the hashcode (the last seven digits) tells us nothing, unfortunately!). That's the version most people have. 17.38 *just* started rolling out a couple of days ago.

The MCU reboots with holding down the scroll wheels, and the ICU (instrument cluster) with the buttons/pads above the wheels.

And, for example, on my new car (last week), I had a problem with Passive Entry not working. I rebooted both screens and it then worked. Coincidence or not, you decide.
 
17.36 here. Not sure what it was before the Service Center updated it. Still have the symptoms, did try a full minute shutdown of the car.
Have to try this when I get my car back Monday. As for shutting the car down, I’m not sure that ‘does’ anything. A reboot will definitely reset things, but off/on may or may not actually ‘change’ anything.

If this is a 17.36 issue, we should have more reports shortly!
 
I had a problem with the car on my first road trip. I called road service, who transferred me to a tech, and the solution he had me do was pull over to the side of the freeway, do a shutdown, wait a full minute, and hit the break pedal to start the car up again. It did fix the issue. When I did it yesterday, I was in a very quiet location, and could hear interesting clicks and clunks as it shut down. I refer to the process as a "cold boot" since I think that's what it's doing.

And yes, this audio loss thing is a really irritating bug.
 
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I had a problem with the car on my first road trip. I called road service, who transferred me to a tech, and the solution he had me do was pull over to the side of the freeway, do a shutdown, wait a full minute, and hit the break pedal to start the car up again. It did fix the issue. When I did it yesterday, I was in a very quiet location, and could hear interesting clicks and clunks as it shut down. I refer to the process as a "cold boot" since I think that's what it's doing.

And yes, this audio loss thing is a really irritating bug.
Interesting, so, that may be a cold boot, vs. the scroll wheels/button warm boot. Maybe. :).
 
I am on SW version 2017.36 1b27c6d also, and having the same issue. I found a work around when on Steaming Audio. Change to radio momentarily, and then back to the streaming program. I use this since resetting the vehicle while driving is not possible.

Not sure, but it seemed to occur after the last update -- SW version 2017.36 1b27c6d
 
I've semi-repro'd this on 17.38. Went on a drive using google maps guidance from my iPhone and somewhere along the way it stopped working (taking over the car's audio to talk from the media player). I toggled BT on the phone (and this was from control panel, so it may not have actually done anything, lol), but it worked. Go figure.

So, try that, no matter what phone you have: toggle BT off and on and see if that wakes up the car's connection next time it seems to break.
 
17.36 and calling out usually results in no incoming audio, but recipient can hear you.
Also causes Spotify to stay in mute after call is released until you switch source.

Never had a problem before in 2+years.

Tesla get this fixed please.
It is an important function of the car to have handsfree calling available.
 
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Think it relates to the software on the car matching the phone iOS? With the M3 on 36.2 you need iOS 12? My wife’s iPhone 7 hasn’t updated yet. When she is connected, we have no audio. When she disconnects and I connect my iPhone X with iOS 12, no problem?