I'm just coming back to this thread. You thought that was an exaggeration? I haven't lied about a single number. I have no reason to. I have at least one more over 1100 if you want more.
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What's killing your efficiency is the short trips with a cold car and cold battery. Your shortest trip is your least efficient. Your next 2 shortest are also the least efficient. If you did a 70 mile drive at 70mph in 60F you might get 300wh/mile. If you get 400wh/mile on that then you've got a hardware problem.
Your say 5minute 1.3mile drive is probably running the heater at full power sending some to the cabin and some to the battery. After about 15-20 minutes (depending on outside temp) the cabin first, then the battery will be warmed and the heater throttling back. Probably before 30 minutes the car will stop heating the battery and occasionally need to heat the cabin - unless you have the window open! The battery will be warmed by just the electric being drawn from it, and occasional regen.
I assume your car definitely has the heatpump? That it wasn't 2nd hand, pre-refresh? I'm sure you can check that from checking the VIN number on the dashboard as anything built in 2021 would have one + service centre would be able to tell on their "system diagnosis screens".
When the line above your "speed" is dotted on the left side your car is telling you it's cold. The longer the dotted bit, the colder it is. I imagine the left quarter of yours is dotted for all these drives! When the car is very cold the car will be running the heater at full plus actively trying to scavenge heat to heat the battery resulting in terrible efficiency for short drives. If you're running the heater while not moving and the car is on that's your wh/mile sky-rocketing. If below freezing the blue frost symbol will be on, the car telling you a message about "range may increase with driving" and on the big battery screen show 10% of the battery covered in blue. That 10% will become available as the battery warms with driving.
Pre-heating the interior of the car should only take about 5minutes even at 10F. Don't pre-heat it more than that. Doing pre-heating for 1 mile drives is a bit of a waste. I'd just keep coat and gloves on, put on heating when in the car and seat heaters on full for that trip.
Charging the car before using it is best - especially if cheaprate electricity coincides. Charging the car is about 93% efficient. So for each 12kWh you add 1kWh is going to heat the battery (and a bit the wires and electronics). Maybe closer to 88-90% in cold. But you're also going to take the battery from say 30F to 37F and not cause the car to worry about how cold the battery is.
Let me add - and others might not agree. But buying the performance over the long-range is not really worth it for most.
In Chicago you're going to spend half the year battling snow/damp roads not able to do any performance acceleration. You're really paying about $10000 more for $1000 more in parts. Breaking it down, the long-range already gives you the same interior, AWD motors, fantastic performance.
On the downside the performance wheels are thinner and more likely to break on pot-holes (less tyre wall to take the impact), and give you slightly worse efficiency. I think you'd have been better with AWD for this reason.
In most driving the performance brakes aren't going to do anything more than the normal brakes. All brakes adjust 200 times a second to prevent lockup. All brakes should be 100% capable of locking brakes. So the only difference is size, and how quickly they heat/cool themselves - and bigger is better. The motor in the performance vs long-range is I think identical. Just software limited by 10% or so in the long-range. And last I heard you can buy a performance boost to the long range to get you to 0.5seconds off the performance acceleration (3.7s vs 3.2 I think). The performance has a spoiler that's a $100 ebay item. I've even been told by the service centre that the ebay spoiler is better and fits the shape of the car better! The Tesla one often doesn't fit well at the edges and isn't stuck down that well!
I bought the SR+ refresh and still leave ICE cars for dead at traffic lights. I've borrowed both the long-range and performance while mine has been in service.