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[PICS] - HRE P41 Wheels - 20x9 ET28 and 20x10.5 ET28 - Fits, but aggressively!

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UPDATED SEP-13-2015 -- Scroll to third post for MORE PHOTOS!

Back at the start of Spring I traded in my S85 (silver) for an 85D Tesla (red). Shortly after, I picked up a set of square 20x9 3SDM Wheels (LINK). They were a great setup, but I had wanted something a bit more aggressive looking. Since the folks at 3SDM offered a 20x10.5 rear I decided to give that a try. However the ET42 wheel didn't clear the fender liner, nor did the center cap clear the hub nut. In order to clear both I would have to run spacers which would not allow the wheel nuts to secure the wheels properly. They do offer an ET27 option, which I considered for a short while.

Then, during my contemplating what to do, and wanting to swap the wheels to something a bit more exciting, I came across the wheels you'll see pictured below. They were take-offs from a BMW E92 M3, which included BMW TPMS (won't work for Tesla), and tires which were also the wrong size. I've subsequently put the BMW TPMS for sale on eBay to recoup some costs, and my friend purchased the tires for his M3. He also purchased some of my 3SDM wheels, but I'm keeping the used 20x9 square set for my winter wheels. So 3SDM for winter, and HRE for summer.

Pricing for HRE wheels is not cheap, as many of you know. I had these wheels priced out at $7,800 new-- plus another $1,200 for tires and TPMS, mount & balance. Add in transit and this quickly added up to over $9k, and I managed to scored this set used for less than $3k with tires/sensors. Again, I was able to sell the tires/sensors, to help me afford to buy the correct Tesla size and load-rated tires/sensors.

Right before my purchase, a week ago, I posted up THIS THREAD asking for advice about the wheels. Didn't really get much in the way of replies, but there were enough threads already here for me to research. It seems most people are running a 10-inch rear, but a few people run 10.5-inch rears-- though typically ET35. There is an extra 7mm extra thrust here, a bit more aggressive than most. So I said what the heck, and purchased.... here are my results...

What you see below is:

HRE P41 Wheels
Finish: Brushed Tinted Clear
Front: 20x9 ET28
Rear: 20x10.5 ET28

Tires Installed
Front: 245/40-20
Rear: 275/35-20
Brand: Hankook
Style: Ventus S1 noble2
Category: UHP All-Season

In a perfect world, I would personally suggest that the best looking setup would be 20x9 up front ET30, and 20x10 in rear, ET35. That would be a nice, relatively flush setup, with plenty of inner clearance too. Actually you could go more aggressive in the front but at lock might rub the fender liner (I'm pretty sure I do on rare occasion now). My car is also lowered, so keep that in mind in the photos below. Again, 10.5 inch rear does work here... but it pokes a lot-- way more aggressive than most people might want. It isn't for the faint hearted.

As the photos display, the TIRE TREAD BLOCKS are pretty "flush" with the fender, but the shoulder of the tire, and the wheel itself, POKE beyond the fender. This is not a look that many like-- but I don't mind. Actually think it works pretty nicely here. Also be aware the stance/height you see pictured is "LOW" setting, and I never drive at that setting. I have the car aligned, as is typical, in the "STANDARD" height-- and drive that height always 100% of the time (set the slider to "Never" for low). This gives me the best of both worlds-- as the car is already lower than stock, i get the efficiency benefits of lower freeway driving-- but also the alignment is always as it should be. With the rear aftermarket upper control arms installed the alignment is still well within factory specs. No added camber, because I never actually drive in the LOW setting.

(Sidebar: there are a few photos to show the stance-- also there is a photo to show the "clear bra" material I had applied to my rear fender, near the rear tire-- to protect the paint from the wide stance that might otherwise cause rock chips from the extreme tire location) (Also its been raining here, but hopefully I'll have better daylight outside sunny photos to add to this post soon)

And with that said, enjoy the photos. If you folks have any questions let me know. I'm sure people are going to make comments about how an 85D doesn't need staggered wheels, or how the look is "stupid" -- and hey, thats fine I can take the heat. I did it because I like it, and its my car, so pffbbt.... haha.... and yes I added a P85D OEM CF spoiler, to my non-Performance car.. deal with it... and enjoy!!

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Clear Bra.jpg
Final Result.JPG
side shot both.jpg
side shot close.jpg
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They look great, amazing what a different set of wheels can do for a car. I ran HREs on my Corvette, great company to work with. They custom built my wheels with the specifications we gave them, offsets, widths etc. We mini-tubbed the Vette and needed a lot of tire to handle the 408 CID Supercharged Stroker :biggrin:
No chance of bottoming-out that rear fender, is there? Seems like aero will suffer a bit in the rear.

Those rear shots, where the rear aero is VERY close to the ground, the car is set to "LOW" in the Smart Air suspension settings. It is in this mode for the purposes of this photo shoot only. In real life I never actually drive the car in that mode. I have the car set to "NEVER" (for the Low/speed setting), and drive the car in Standard height at all times. This is better for a few reasons.

First off, when you have Tesla do an alignment on your car, it is in the Standard setting. When you run in Low you're actually going to add more rear camber, which though it won't hurt the tires as much as toe does, still can cause uneven wear. Secondly, now that my car is lowered with the arms, even in Standard it sits lower than Low does on a stock car, so I'm going to get the benefits on better efficiency on the freeway even in standard mode. And lastly, as you noted, running in Low at these modified heights could prove an issue, for the aero, the tires grabbing a fender, etc.

Though I've never measured it, I believe the data on these forums indicate that Low-vs-Standard is about 12mm difference- so driving around, my car sits about a half inch higher than what you see in these photos. :p
Good set up! I was originally thinking of going HRE as well but didn't seem to justify the cost of $8000 for a set of wheels that will get switched over in a year.

I ended up with AG wheel's new flow-form line up. M621. 20" wheels but mid 25/28 lbs relatively front and rear.

I am more keen on stance so my set up is definitely not for most people but here are 2 quick snaps from the other day. full photoshoot will come later.

Brand: AG wheels

front 20x10 et15
rear 20x10.5 et15
color: brushed metallic grigio gray

Tires: Micheline pilot supersport 235/35/20, 245/35/20.

I can possibly run 245/35/20 and 265/35/20 if i needed more tire but at the moment this set up is sufficient. I don't hit fender neither do I hit fender liner surprisingly.

I agree with OP on the most safe set up for Tesla with proper tires are possibly going to be 20x9 et35 and 20x10.5 et35 with 245/275 tires.