I'd recommend you have a discussion with someone in person, maybe a local race shop that does suspension, so they can explain this to you.
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Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?
- Thread starter KOL2000
- Start date
I'd recommend you have a discussion with someone in person, maybe a local race shop that does suspension, so they can explain this to you.
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
No no no. You don’t want it set to 0. Please no! Are you driving a yugo in a straight line!
ramirj2
Member
Basically.
Dragstrip , 1/2 miles ect….. Better traction on a straight line and improved tire thread life.
It is going to be adjustable if I needed any different.
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
^^this^^ you still need camber for straight line racing. With no camber, if/when your car gets a little floaty on the big end, you're going to crap your pants trying to reel it back in because with no camber, there's very little feedback.Oh god! You’re going to hate the way it handles.
Usually if people want to do something questionable, I'd ask them to video it so I could see it later...but this is pretty sketchy, I wouldn't want you to even attempt it with a legitimately fast car.
ramirj2
Member
HighPotential
Member
When I threw the T2's on the car was aligned very carefully at the low ride height so I do not believe it was an alignment issue (at least it being far out of spec)
A lot of people run 0 on drag cars, but a lot of them also have chutes on the back to straighten them out when it gets unstable.
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
It’s his car and if he wants to run it at 0, who are we to argue
. He could probably go positive camber just in case there is a need to touch the steering wheel for turning around after the drag strip run!All I know is that with those oem rubber bushings on all those suspension links, all settings at alignment don’t mean didley squat under compression on a real road
Inspect for excessive wear or cords showing on the inner edge. And if so replace the replace the tire. Approx $560 at a SC.
HighPotential
Member
Michelin honored my claim and paid 75% of the replacement set which Tire Rack was kind enough to order for me. I was unable to find new T2's anywhere, but Tire Rack eventually got the non-Tesla version in and I snagged a rear set of those. They are a bit noisier on some road surfaces, but not bad at all overall.
It’s his car and if he wants to run it at 0, who are we to argue
All I know is that with those oem rubber bushings on all those suspension links, all settings at alignment don’t mean didley squat under compression on a real road
The general consensus on track only drag cars is 0 camber. But the key words are "track only" , and as I mentioned before, even if they don't need the chute to brake, it's the fastest way to get the car to straighten out when it starts skating around. Hell, I've popped a chute on the highway before for that exact reason.
No way I would run 0 camber on a $150k, completely stock suspension street car.
This is the route I was considering, but there’s not much evidence that 20’s won’t have the same issue. I like the Arachnids and am not really interested I dropping several grand on 20’s only to have the same issue. Has anyone with aftermarket 20’s driven 10k+ miles to validate this goes away?I see y’all are still going on and on about the tires!
And I forgot to add - my service center loves how my car handles now
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
True! I think a few % of people here got 20” rims aftermarket and possibly even fewer did over 10k on them.
I’m in that very small group, and have 15k miles. No issue here. However, truth be told, I didn’t even wait for the issue to start before I replaced my oem wheels with some sweet and flush to fender signature sv104s.
One data point - no one with 19” wheels is complaining about tread separation either
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HighPotential
Member
Would this mean tire defect on the 21s? If it was alignment, we should still see the same wear on the 19's and 20's right?
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
I think I read here that it’s not just the Michelins with this problem.
HighPotential
Member
Interesting. Maybe the too-short-of-a-sidewall is the cause. Not enough inflation, sidewall damage, eventual structure failure. Or just a good pothole starts it and the damage spreads from stress.
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