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Plaid Radar Detector install with switched power

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After much reading about the difficulty of finding a switched 12v power source in the refreshed Model S Plaid, I decided to go a different route to achieve the same result.

I mounted my Escort Redline 360c with hidden wires from the cigarette lighter adapter all the way to the mirror which achieves both turning on/off with the car as well as having the mute button somewhere accessible while driving.

Hopefully this guide helps others who are interested in this solution.

Parts:
  • Redline 360c radar detector, EZ Mag Mount windshield mount which comes with it and their 12-volt SmartCord which also comes in the box.
    • Instructions would work for a Valentine1 or other radar detectors as well
  • 2 telephone cords - MUST HAVE 4 strands in order for the mute button to work on Escort radar detectors
  • 2 In line couplers to connect extension power cord to SmartCord. I needed 2 because it seems one reverses the wires and the other reverses them back. Using 1 caused an error. I used Monster 140164 which were a few dollars at Ace Hardware.
  • 10mm socket
  • Pry tool

Wire path:
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Parts:

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Wiring location along windshield. Can be pushed in by hand.
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The A pillar trim pulls out from the top. Be careful not to pull too far since there is a white plastic connector that has to be undone.

There is an existing track that wiring runs through which I used as well.

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Once you run the wire down the A pillar, you have to remove the kick panels above the brake/accelerator. The first one pulls down since it's held on by magnets. The second has to be removed with a 10mm socket.

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Finally fish the wire through the back of the center console with one hand inside the console and one pushing the wire through from the back. You may have to pull the center console panel to the side. Again these are attached with clips that can be pulled out.

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Finally make the connections inside the center console.
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Finished product!
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Great writeup. I was going to ask if there were factory wires running by the airbag in the left pillar, and you show that wires are there, like in the right pillar. I essentially mounted my Valentine One on the right going down to the fuse box in the right kick panel. Since there are no fuses in the new 2021, I would have wired it as you have done. Maybe for my next Tesla? :) Thanks.

BTW - for Model Year 2020 and earlier, there is a bolt under the "Airbag" plastic label-cover on the A pillar, so don't just try to pull the A pillar off on earlier models like you can on the 2021+. Just pull off the Airbag plastic label-cover and remove the bolt.
 
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Great writeup. I was going to ask if there were factory wires running by the airbag in the left pillar, and you show that wires are there, like in the right pillar. I essentially mounted my Valentine One on the right going down to the fuse box in the right kick panel. Since there are no fuses in the new 2021, I would have wired it as you have done. Maybe for my next Tesla? :) Thanks.
Definitely for your next Tesla!

I first tried to install without removing the A pillar cover, then spent an hour trying to figure out how to remove the cover only to figure out it just pulls out which isn't how the previous generation was. I'm glad I pulled it out because I found that wiring track, making me feel much better about my wire not interfering with an airbag deploying.

Also loved the V1. The only reason I switched was because they were too noisy and there is no way to mute below a certain speed without using the app. The Savvy model unfortunately doesn't work on electric cars.
 
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Yeah, I was scared of the airbag myself until I saw where there were factory wires running in a channel in the A Pillar. I both don't want to mess with the airbag, and don't want my installation to interfere with it in any way. I upgraded to the latest Valentine, and it is much less sensitive to false alarms. I have not gotten a speeding ticket while the Valentine was on in the last 30+ years. I am not as fast a driver anymore, but I still like to know where the traps are. V1-- next best thing to owning a judge! :)
 
Nice writeup and parts list. Thank you for sharing and providing insights to the pillar process especially. I will hopefully be doing the same once my MS LR arrives fairly soon! I still have Gen1 Valentine1 and previously used blendmount products in all my past vehicles. Was fairly disappointed to learn there isn't a version that seems to work well out of the box with the Tesla tapered rear mirror stalk so may explore the suction cup idea you present. From another thread here it seems people are finding the OBD2 port on the new refresh S Plaid/LR (drivers side footwell) also seems switched and would reduce the cable run and possibly the extra adapters needed to get to glovebox. If you tried that approach, what was your experience? Just for funsies I bought a couple of parts of Amazon to test along with looking up pin-outs for V1 and 4-strand RJ11 cable. I'm not sure how this would work with the remote mute functionality that I guess is baked into the cigarette adapter piece in your pics.

OBD ll Power Adapter Wiring Harness

4-pin Modular Keystone with Screw Block for RJ11 cables
 
Nice writeup and parts list. Thank you for sharing and providing insights to the pillar process especially. I will hopefully be doing the same once my MS LR arrives fairly soon! I still have Gen1 Valentine1 and previously used blendmount products in all my past vehicles. Was fairly disappointed to learn there isn't a version that seems to work well out of the box with the Tesla tapered rear mirror stalk so may explore the suction cup idea you present. From another thread here it seems people are finding the OBD2 port on the new refresh S Plaid/LR (drivers side footwell) also seems switched and would reduce the cable run and possibly the extra adapters needed to get to glovebox. If you tried that approach, what was your experience? Just for funsies I bought a couple of parts of Amazon to test along with looking up pin-outs for V1 and 4-strand RJ11 cable. I'm not sure how this would work with the remote mute functionality that I guess is baked into the cigarette adapter piece in your pics.

OBD ll Power Adapter Wiring Harness

4-pin Modular Keystone with Screw Block for RJ11 cables
I think that the refresh has a revised mirror such that the Blendmount for the M3/MY work.
 
Nice writeup and parts list. Thank you for sharing and providing insights to the pillar process especially. I will hopefully be doing the same once my MS LR arrives fairly soon! I still have Gen1 Valentine1 and previously used blendmount products in all my past vehicles. Was fairly disappointed to learn there isn't a version that seems to work well out of the box with the Tesla tapered rear mirror stalk so may explore the suction cup idea you present. From another thread here it seems people are finding the OBD2 port on the new refresh S Plaid/LR (drivers side footwell) also seems switched and would reduce the cable run and possibly the extra adapters needed to get to glovebox. If you tried that approach, what was your experience? Just for funsies I bought a couple of parts of Amazon to test along with looking up pin-outs for V1 and 4-strand RJ11 cable. I'm not sure how this would work with the remote mute functionality that I guess is baked into the cigarette adapter piece in your pics.

OBD ll Power Adapter Wiring Harness

4-pin Modular Keystone with Screw Block for RJ11 cables

I didn't try the OBDII power source especially because I wanted the mute feature. If I still had my V1, the OBDII source could have been a good solution.

I hope your car arrives soon, I know you'll enjoy it.

In regards to the adapters I'm sure I could have cut down by one if I figured out pass through vs crossover connector and purchased the appropriate one.
 
I think that the refresh has a revised mirror such that the Blendmount for the M3/MY work.
I have heard this before but have not seen anyone confirm. I reached out to Blendmount and they said it won’t work without modification, but I wasn’t confident that I was corresponding with someone actually at the company who really knows, or a third party support rep who is reading the prompts. If anyone can confirm that either the M3 or MY Blendmount will work on the MS, please let me know.
 
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I have heard this before but have not seen anyone confirm. I reached out to Blendmount and they said it won’t work without modification, but I wasn’t confident that I was corresponding with someone actually at the company who really knows, or a third party support rep who is reading the prompts. If anyone can confirm that either the M3 or MY Blendmount will work on the MS, please let me know.
I just ordered the M3 Blendmount last night for my Model S Plaid. We will see how it goes! The previous Blendmount I had (BV1-2000) for my Genesis Coupe would limit the movement of the rear view mirror too much to be useful.
 
I just ordered the M3 Blendmount last night for my Model S Plaid. We will see how it goes! The previous Blendmount I had (BV1-2000) for my Genesis Coupe would limit the movement of the rear view mirror too much to be useful.
My install is complete now - the Model 3 Blendmount does indeed fit, but it is very close tolerances and it COULD limit the angle of the mirror. I am 6-0 tall and my wife is 5-6 and we both can adjust the rear view mirror without issue with the Model 3 Blendmount installed so I would so it is OK!
 
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Anyone with a V1 gen2 having power up issue routing through the cigarette 12V adapter (like OP)?

It is not automatically powering on when 12V is first energized. Requires manual press of the power button to turn on.
This problem was reported if you are using a gen 1 power connector with the gen 2 device. Make sure and use the stuff that comes with the new detector.
 
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I did this yesterday but I went up the passenger side after being encouraged to do so by some users on the Plaid FB group and since my R7 is on a blendmount and has its power cord on the passenger side so I thought it would be an easier install. Passenger side only has one kick panel to pull down. It took me about an hour taking my time, had a little trouble getting the a pillar cover back on but it turned out I didn't have the clips aligned great. Once I figured that out and jostled some more it went in just fine.
 
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If you want to avoid all that wiring and panel removal.. Heres my post with a Much simplier solution to tap into the 12v under the mirror cover.. Cheers

 
If you want to avoid all that wiring and panel removal.. Heres my post with a Much simplier solution to tap into the 12v under the mirror cover.. Cheers

Based upon what I have read about the refresh electrical system I was a little concerned to go that route. Time will tell and I am sure you will end up having no problems. That definitely would be much easier.