Plaid Radar Detector install with switched power

[mswlogo]

I pulled the complete pillar cover away which you can see best in the fourth picture I posted. Since then some people said they have done this without pulling off the cover at all.

By the way you mentioned I went through all that trouble to use the cigarette lighter socket. That way my whole goal with this project. I didn't want to tap in to anything as to avoid any pushback from Tesla if I were to have electrical issues, and I wanted to have access to the mute/memory button on the cigarette lighter adapter from Redline. If I was going to tap I could have gone to a mirror tap or many sources along the way from obd to the wires that power the wireless charger. I haven't had any issues using the Redline 360c with this method. I wonder if it's a Valentine1 issue you're seeing.

I see. Good point about warranty, I had not thought of that angle. But if they wanted to be stinkers, which we know they have been known to be, they could baulk about running wires through the pillar too, even though they only connect at lighter socket.

I ended up tapping Camera power, pretty happy with it. Fairly easy to hide before bringing in for any service.

 

[Plood]

I was ready to send back the V1 Valentine One Gen 2 unit because of the lack of a clear install method that could be found in this forum. Then I found the Teslatap article that showed how to create a simple cord that plugged into an empty plug at the cover by the rear view mirror. On all the time is nice because it doesn’t do the distracting beep sequence every time the car wakes.

 

[mswlogo]

I was ready to send back the V1 Valentine One Gen 2 unit because of the lack of a clear install method that could be found in this forum. Then I found the Teslatap article that showed how to create a simple cord that plugged into an empty plug at the cover by the rear view mirror. On all the time is nice because it doesn’t do the distracting beep sequence every time the car wakes.

You DO NOT want it on all the time. Bad idea. 12V batteries in Tesla's are on the small side for weight and don't have long life. And when they go it's sometimes not pretty and little warning. They DO NOT need any extra help with a constant drain. There is plenty of info and options to install it switched. But you did have to dig a little.

Here is what I just did and added it to the largest thread on Refresh Radar detector install, which has been around for a while.

12V Access: Model S 2021 Refresh

Also the start up beep is to remind you it's all working vs sitting there dead and not knowing it, when it doesn't beep I know something is wrong.
Also if you run an App like V1Driver you can set the volume on the V1 safely down low, because it can mute the radio so I can hear it and optionally get Text to Speech of the alert through the car stereo and optionally let the App auto mute the V1. Way more pleasant than a raw V1. Savvy mute, GPS mute etc. Totally hands off. Basically connects exactly how your phone connects to the car.
I love not having V1 set blasting loud to over power radio (in past days). So the startup sequence is way less annoying that way, but critically still present. It doesn't even bother the female sex And I can set her phone to more aggressively mute.

 

[alb]

I loved my V1 for years and even bought the V1G2. With Savvy not working on electric cars (or at least Teslas) I tried JBV1 but wanted a seamless solution. I switch to the Redline 360c which has a less annoying startup sound, and many gpa features I like including auto muting if the same stationary alert registers three times and lowering volume under a certain speed.

I realize JBV1 can do most of this but I wanted a standalone solution for these problems.

The downside with the Redline is that the arrows are slow to change direction when you pass the source of the radar, and sometimes you get a strong alert which then just stops alerting before you reach the source.

If Valentine1 builds GPS, auto lockouts and muting below speeds into the detector I'll switch back in a heartbeat.

 

[mswlogo]

I loved my V1 for years and even bought the V1G2. With Savvy not working on electric cars (or at least Teslas) I tried JBV1 but wanted a seamless solution. I switch to the Redline 360c which has a less annoying startup sound, and many gpa features I like including auto muting if the same stationary alert registers three times and lowering volume under a certain speed.

I realize JBV1 can do most of this but I wanted a standalone solution for these problems.

The downside with the Redline is that the arrows are slow to change direction when you pass the source of the radar, and sometimes you get a strong alert which then just stops alerting before you reach the source.

If Valentine1 builds GPS, auto lockouts and muting below speeds into the detector I'll switch back in a heartbeat.

Not sure how many years left on Escort Patent for built in GPS.

My absolute favorite feature of using an App is audio integration. In my Model 3 I mounted the V1 behind my head on the dome light. Volume on 1. No need to even look at the detector. Just want to know if I should slow down or not and if it’s behind or in front. Then just be quiet. It’s the most un-annoying setup ever. A stand alone audio box, no matter how smart, is ICE age tech I want the freedom of running Radio at any volume. With it integrated, I can. With it not, you need to constantly adjust to jump out of skin volumes to cut through the radio.

Startup beeps are absolutely the least concerning problem. It’s while your driving I want it to be pleasant.

Rocking to Pink Floyd….Radio Mutes (just like Navigation)…Pleasant Female Voice comes on at a low volume and say “Ka Ahead”…”AutoMute Ka”….Back to Rocking Pink Floyd.

Just like Nav would say “Turn Ahead”.

It would be like adding a separate Garmin GPS to the car for directions. This integrates the RD into the car.

 

[Plood]

You DO NOT want it on all the time. Bad idea. 12V batteries in Tesla's are on the small side for weight and don't have long life. And when they go it's sometimes not pretty and little warning. They DO NOT need any extra help with a constant drain. There is plenty of info and options to install it switched. But you did have to dig a little.

Your confidence is clear. I'm a little more inquisitive. I'd look for data like "What is the power consumption of the V1 when idle?" And "What is the capacity of the 12V battery?" and "What is the recharging process for the 12V battery from the main battery when parked?" and "What percentages of 12V battery failures are attributable to a small constant power draw and recharging cycle?"

I have a working solution that might have a minuscule chance to reducing my $200 battery life by a tiny percentage. And frankly, your writeup was unhelpful for my model year.

 

[mswlogo]

Your confidence is clear. I'm a little more inquisitive. I'd look for data like "What is the power consumption of the V1 when idle?" And "What is the capacity of the 12V battery?" and "What is the recharging process for the 12V battery from the main battery when parked?" and "What percentages of 12V battery failures are attributable to a small constant power draw and recharging cycle?"

I have a working solution that might have a minuscule chance to reducing my $200 battery life by a tiny percentage. And frankly, your writeup was unhelpful for my model year.

V1 is about 250ma idle.
Your battery is probably around 35ah

Acceptable additional drain is about 30ma.

You are only about 10x that.

Calculation of permissible car battery drain | Online calculator

Not to mention you may screwup circuits that are monitoring leakage.

But your confidence is clear.

 

[Plood]

V1 is about 250ma idle.
Your battery is probably around 35ah

Acceptable additional drain is about 30ma.

You are only about 10x that.

Calculation of permissible car battery drain | Online calculator

Not to mention you may screwup circuits that are monitoring leakage.

But your confidence is clear.

That's useful information.

I trust the Tesla engineers didn't forget to have some means for the main batteries to maintain the 12V. Might this not be like Sentry Mode and other vampire current draws the car is designed to handle? Pennies a day with no harm to the 12V battery?

 

[vcor]

I've had dashcams, at about 3W using continuous power draw, on three Model S - 2013, 2016, and 2022. None have had any problems nor any warranty issues. I think the 2013 12v battery had to be replaced twice in 4 years (typical back then). On my 2016 S, I had some other continuous lighting loads with the dashcam of about 15W. The 2016 12v battery lasted 5 years.

Really the amount of power a radar detector or dashcam needs is really in the noise. Don't worry about having it on all the time, the vehicle is designed for it. If you use Sentry mode, the AP processor will be drawing between 200-300 W continuous, all the time. I've done a lot of mods and also a great deal of testing different circuits - both how they switch on and off and the safe loads you can draw without tripping an eFuse. I keep updating this article as I learn more: Accessory Power Guide 12v/5v – TeslaTap

 

[mswlogo]

I don’t know how long you’ve owned or been reading. But let’s just say don’t let Tesla see what you are doing. Or if you’ve read what happens with a dead 12V battery in a Tesla with little to no warning.

 

[Plood]

You seem reluctant to actually provide helpful information.

 

[Dcher]

My understanding is that the new model S has a windshield containing a metal oxide that interferes with glass mounted radar detectors. Apparently it reduces the signal significantly. However, there is a location on the lower right portion of the windshield lacking this metal oxide allowing one mount a device for passing through toll booths etc.

 

[THX723]

My understanding is that the new model S has a windshield containing a metal oxide that interferes with glass mounted radar detectors. Apparently it reduces the signal significantly. However, there is a location on the lower right portion of the windshield lacking this metal oxide allowing one mount a device for passing through toll booths etc.

This is not the case with the new Model S and I can also attest to that with my own experience. My V1 Gen2 (mounted high just off to the left of the center mirror) consistently detects Ka band threats (actual LEO) well beyond 1.5 miles.

Other point of reference:

Model S LR refreshed radar detector windshield test

Well I took out my new LR for some test runs with a V1 Gen 2 to compare how it performed. I went to a school with a constant K band radar. I tested it in the top of the windshield just to the left of the mirror and then I tested it on the bottom right corner where the manual says you should put...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[mswlogo]

That's useful information.

You seem reluctant to actually provide helpful information.

You seem clueless

Time to ignore.

 

[DukeofURL]

The A pillar trim pulls out from the top. Be careful not to pull too far since there is a white plastic connector that has to be undone.

There is an existing track that wiring runs through which I used as well.

View attachment 735265

Tried this last night - was able to pull the A pillar cover enough to slide the wire in it, but tugging on it relatively firmly I wasn't able to pop it off. Didn't want to break any connectors and cause rattles - how hard (and which direction) did you pull on it to pop it off? I'd like to be able to fully hide the wires behind this panel and that does require fully removing it (not just slipping the wire in the side - plus it would be prudent to keep the wires in the channel seeing as how there's an airbag there).

 

[mswlogo]

Tried this last night - was able to pull the A pillar cover enough to slide the wire in it, but tugging on it relatively firmly I wasn't able to pop it off. Didn't want to break any connectors and cause rattles - how hard (and which direction) did you pull on it to pop it off? I'd like to be able to fully hide the wires behind this panel and that does require fully removing it (not just slipping the wire in the side - plus it would be prudent to keep the wires in the channel seeing as how there's an airbag there).

I’m so glad I didn’t go down that path (no pun)

Good luck.

Curious how it goes for future reference.

Can you push a stiff wire down there as a “fish” like solid #14 or #12 and leave cover on?

 

[alb]

Tried this last night - was able to pull the A pillar cover enough to slide the wire in it, but tugging on it relatively firmly I wasn't able to pop it off. Didn't want to break any connectors and cause rattles - how hard (and which direction) did you pull on it to pop it off? I'd like to be able to fully hide the wires behind this panel and that does require fully removing it (not just slipping the wire in the side - plus it would be prudent to keep the wires in the channel seeing as how there's an airbag there).

Here are a couple of photos that may help. In terms of the airbag issue, I ran my wire (blue arrow) along the track where Tesla runs their wires, knowing this path can not interfere with the airbag.

I have a video of how to pull out the A Pillar trim but can't find a way to attach it here. You pull from the drivers window to the passenger's window, or left side of the car to the right side of the car. The second image below is a photo of what the clips look like.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

I used a mirror tap with my Uniden R3, worked like a charm. Turns on when I open the door, turns off about 5 minutes after I get out.

Radar Mount RJ11 Mirror Wire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078939GZ2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[Spfx99]

For those with the Escort 360c, how's the range? I never installed mine, I heard the range was terrible in the model S due the windshield coating.

 

[DukeofURL]

For those with the Escort 360c, how's the range? I never installed mine, I heard the range was terrible in the model S due the windshield coating.

Model S used to have a windshield coating I think back in 2016. If your car is newer than that, you shouldn't have an issue.