I have a 2021 Tesla Plaid and at 8000 miles the left rear tire wore thru on the inside to the steel tread and caused a flat at 80 mph. This week the same thing happened on the right rear tire wearing thru on outer edge going thru to steel tread. I have maintained proper air pressure as called for at 40 psi. This is truly a design flaw on Tesla or Michelin tires . Does anyone know a fix
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Plaid tire failure
- Thread starter Rur Ambrose
- Start date
Hayseed_MS
Spreader of "Endless Non Sequitur"
Isn’t it supposed to be 42 psi?
Have you had alignment checked?
What ride height are you primarily on?
Are you lowered at all on lowering links? drive the car on lowest setting? model s has always been prone to rear tire wear. get camber arms/toe links and get an alignment after you replace the tires.
drunkenbuda
Member
8k miles and it is showing steel tread? I'll take those back to SC and see what's wrong with it.
I just had the same problem. I bought my MSP in Jan 22 and I'm replacing my second rear tire right now. Is there any warranty on these tires? Any suggestions on another brand of tire?
Yep. Much stronger and adjustable control arms from website N2itive.me Eliminate Inner Tire & Premature Half-Shaft Wear On Tesla X/S! to reduce or zero out the camber and toe.
I have no affiliation with them, but I am a VERY satisfied customer.
Got 35k on the new tires I installed same time as these control arms, and I still have more than half the tread life left, and I am HEAVY on the throttle most of the time. These arms have a 6 year warranty, made by a small company devoted to customer service (haha remember young Tesla?)
What year & model Tesla are they on and what are your camber and toe settings?
No. US Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act=
Well august is only 3 more days...
Can an Aftermarket Part Void My Car Warranty? - Consumer Reports News
Consumer Reports details how aftermarket parts could affect you car's warranty.
www.consumerreports.org
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
electricar
Member
Aftermarket wheels will make a difference if the offset is different. This seems like an alignment/tire combination problem to me. If the car has too much toe out ( or goes to too much toe out under heavy acceleration) in combination with the characteristics of a particular tire ( sidewall stiffness, square or rounded shoulder, etc ) this is what you get. If I were attempting to remedy this situation I would start with alignment. My NSX blows through front tires quickly with this exact wear pattern but the way it drives just isn’t as nice if I remove the front toe out so I have just accepted the situation.
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lbowroom
Plaid, white on black, CF, 8/27/21, Track Pack
I don’t see how offset would affect camber or toe behavior. Interesting about the toe out. From the Mountain Pass website for their rear trailing arms,
”In the case of the Model S, the rear suspension will actually toe-out significantly when compressed in the range that a lowered Model S will run in.”
I didn’t add the arms until 11,000 miles so I can’t say that has saved my tires.
electricar
Member
You’re right that changing the offset on the rear wheels does not change the toe or camber. It does, however, change the track width and, therefore, side to side lateral loading of the tires and the load on suspension components and bearings. I’ve seen unintended consequences when changing rear wheel offsets although the changes were fairly large - 1 cm or more. Since changing offsets by multiple cm can often be done with no rubbing people do it because it looks better and don’t really care about any difference in driving or tire wear.
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lbowroom
Plaid, white on black, CF, 8/27/21, Track Pack
I’m an inch wider in front and roughly 14mm out so the inside of the tire is only a couple mm farther out. Not exactly sure where you consider loading from in that case. The rear is the same width just pushed out roughly that same 14mm. I haven’t heard anyone express concern over these numbers or think they will affect tire wear in any measurable way. I can’t imagine the design life of a wheel bearing or suspension components hinging on the final offset chosen by the manufacturer changing by that amount on a performance car. What I’m saying is the components are spec’d way before the final wheel width and offsets are chosen. Tesla tucks their wheels for aero efficiency to meet mileage claims, not for performance.
electricar
Member
I agree with most of what you said and the service factor on suspension components and bearings means that there is rarely a problem caused by changing wheel specs. Increasing track width reduces lateral load transfer from the inside tire to the outside tire so cornering grip often is higher with a greater track width. However I do think that wheel offset is part of the process of suspension design from the start and that aerodynamics are just one factor in the final specs.
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Do you happen to have any photographs of the tires perhaps? That would be very useful!
There are plenty of pictures in the other thread on this topic - Plaid 21” rear tire woes.
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