URBAN LEGEND
Doing it well
Question for the super smart here. The stability control before the track mode was set at 0 or 10?
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Plaid track mode imminent.
- Thread starter RobDickinson
- Start date
MarcG
Active Member
The one thing missing from preset settings is suspension height. Entering Track Mode defaults you to Low, so if you plan on creating a preset for the snow, I recommend adding a step to your procedure to change the suspension to High after entering Track Mode and starting to drive.
MarcG
Active Member
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Its not setting it anywhere near 100% or 0%. Watch the dragtimes video of the Model 3 where he compares all modes. Times are close no matter what, and there is no wheelspin in any setting.
This is more about reducing power to one end to get balance as the car has lateral G’s.
Yes, the stability program is completely different, and much better.
Im driving in freezing snow packed roads. Set to 0, and the car rotates and gets loose. Even set to +9 is way less intrusive than regular mode. I havent played enough with it, but it feels like a completely different and more fun car. Its easy to get the rear to rotate and hold a slight drift in the snow without the brakes trying to shut it down.
That's expected, if you going straight - it will keep full power on both axles. It only drops power on 1 axle for dynamics control (turn-in and under/over steering) and bias that based on your track mode settings.
I got to explore Track mode a little yesterday. Suspension is definitely stiffer than even the stiffest standard suspension setting. Power feels down compared to standard Plaid mode but still stout. Dash graphics are pretty neat and drag mode/launch control still work with track mode.
*WARNING* Experimented with the Drift preset...and nearly crashed the Plaid. The yoke and drifting just don't play nice together. For the first time since owning the car I realized a detriment of the yoke. In large steering angle/oversteer situations you are f*cked. Knowing drifting this thing could be tricky I experimented on a 3 lane sweeper (plenty of room and no other cars on the road). It will get sideways alright! The car went progressively sideways but when it was time to apply quick counter steer to control the yaw, the yoke was crossed up, and the correction went all bad. I grabbed a big handful of air. By the time I grabbed the yoke correctly I was over rotated with too much yaw to pull back. I controlled the spin as best I could and ended up doing a 360 in the middle of the sweeper. No damage, no drama, but might of peed myself a little LOL.
This needs a proper steering wheel to drift properly or a lot more practice with the yolk. Be careful out there!
*WARNING* Experimented with the Drift preset...and nearly crashed the Plaid. The yoke and drifting just don't play nice together. For the first time since owning the car I realized a detriment of the yoke. In large steering angle/oversteer situations you are f*cked. Knowing drifting this thing could be tricky I experimented on a 3 lane sweeper (plenty of room and no other cars on the road). It will get sideways alright! The car went progressively sideways but when it was time to apply quick counter steer to control the yaw, the yoke was crossed up, and the correction went all bad. I grabbed a big handful of air. By the time I grabbed the yoke correctly I was over rotated with too much yaw to pull back. I controlled the spin as best I could and ended up doing a 360 in the middle of the sweeper. No damage, no drama, but might of peed myself a little LOL.
This needs a proper steering wheel to drift properly or a lot more practice with the yolk. Be careful out there!
URBAN LEGEND
Doing it well
I appreciate you sharing. Some would have never admitted to that. I am glad you didn’t mess
anything. It’s all a learning experience. Thanks!
MarcG
Active Member
Yep, and not just for drifting - having a proper round wheel will be much safer when tracking on a closed circuit with corners (not talking about a straight-line drag street, but a proper track).
Three reasons for me:
1. if you hold the yoke at 9 & 3, your thumbs aren’t pressing against anything but your own hand. With a proper round wheel, you can squeeze the wheel for more control. There’s a reason modern sports cars have that thumb knob thingy sticking out on the inside of the wheel diameter just above the 9-and-3 positions.
2. Tight corners: it’s super awkward to turn the yoke more than 90 degrees in either direction. If you’re at a track with tight corners that require more than a 90° turn of the yoke (don’t forget lock-to-lock is over 2 turns of the yoke), it will be annoying at best, dangerous at worst (losing some -or all- control). Which brings me to the unfortunate..
3. Potential wipe-outs: if you track at the limit, you might sometimes go over that limit - even if just slightly, and that means countersteering a little, or a lot. I’ve had my fair share of close calls, and every time I did, I saved it by countersteering (amongst other actions like lifting but not braking). This would basically be impossible to control properly with the yoke, and I’m pretty sure I would have crashed my previous cars against the walls if I didn’t have round wheels to control them.
Long story short, I’m not hitting the track until I have a round wheel in place. Luckily for me, @rhuber is going to make that a possibility very soon - check out his thread on the topic here: Work in progress: stalks on 2021 Model S. (and optional round-y wheel).
PS: pro drivers like Randy Pobst and Blake Fuller have doomed the yoke and went with a round wheel too, plenty of YouTube videos around on this.
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MarcG
Active Member
jebinc
Well-Known Member
In the rain with 19” all seasons - still pulled 1.2G’s. And, the car gave me the middle finger as well!
WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
Thanks a lot for posting.
Was it together with pressing brake pedal? Or regen only? Can you make log recording of all channels and post the file?
I assume at 66% and 21C battery Plaid can charge faster than 103 KW? If so, that's quite low limit
Also, if road was dry, tires warm and brake pedal at the limit - that means we should expect 2x more heat dissipation requirement of front Vs rear brakes.
MarcG
Active Member
MarcG
Active Member
Sure thing!Thanks a lot for posting.
Was it together with pressing brake pedal? Or regen only? Can you make log recording of all channels and post the file?
I assume at 66% and 21C battery Plaid can charge faster than 103 KW? If so, that's quite low limit
Also, if road was dry, tires warm and brake pedal at the limit - that means we should expect 2x more heat dissipation requirement of front Vs rear brakes.
It was regen only, no braking.
Agreed 103kW was low. I just went out again just now and got up to 130kW. It looks like it’s speed-dependent (higher speed = higher regen limit) and it’s very dynamic. Yesterday evening, I just drove on city streets, so speeds were low.
I took a log of my latest drive on Track Mode just now, on highways and twisty hills. Took a screen recording and tesLAX log once I was in the hills - see below.
Unfortunately, the roads were very wet in the hills today due to rain, so I did not push at all. Mostly tested regen (don’t think I even tested WOT accelerations, as I was feeling the rear end wobble a bit on the wet under hard acceleration, which was not a great feeling).
Enjoy!
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WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
Very interesting. I wonder how much it’s capable of regen-ing at most?Sure thing!
It was regen only, no braking.
Agreed 103kW was low. I just went out again just now and got up to 130kW. It looks like it’s speed-dependent (higher speed = higher regen limit) and it’s very dynamic. Yesterday evening, I just drove on city streets, so speeds were low.
I took a log of my latest drive on Track Mode just now, on highways and twisty hills. Took a screen recording and tesLAX log once I was in the hills - see below.
Unfortunately, the roads were very wet in the hills today due to rain, so I did not push at all. Mostly tested regen (don’t think I even tested WOT accelerations, as I was feeling the rear end wobble a bit on the wet under hard acceleration, which was not a great feeling).
Enjoy!
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EndlessPlaid
⚡EV/Tesla Nerd 🔋
@MarcG can you do a test with full accel in Track Mode vs. Drag Mode so we can see if it is limiting output when you get a chance and weather (and most importantly safety) permits? I've heard multiple times and seen that it looks quite a bit slower than normal DS Mode. @omarsultan got ~818kW from the battery (not motor power) in his Cheetah Stance tests.Sure thing!
It was regen only, no braking.
Agreed 103kW was low. I just went out again just now and got up to 130kW. It looks like it’s speed-dependent (higher speed = higher regen limit) and it’s very dynamic. Yesterday evening, I just drove on city streets, so speeds were low.
I took a log of my latest drive on Track Mode just now, on highways and twisty hills. Took a screen recording and tesLAX log once I was in the hills - see below.
Unfortunately, the roads were very wet in the hills today due to rain, so I did not push at all. Mostly tested regen (don’t think I even tested WOT accelerations, as I was feeling the rear end wobble a bit on the wet under hard acceleration, which was not a great feeling).
Enjoy!
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MarcG
Active Member
Yep I can do that once the roads dry, likely tomorrow.
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