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Plaid Vibration around 38-42MPH....
- Thread starter cytranic
- Start date
jebinc
Well-Known Member
I can relate, completely. So much so I resorted to this.
Jebinc’s Plaid Vibration Experiment Results!!!
First, please refer to the thread below for detail information about this affliction, as that will not be discussed in this thread. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/refreshed-model-s-model-vibration-tracking-and-information-thread.249344/#post-6202310 Second, I’m not recommending any...
teslamotorsclub.com
I can relate, completely. So much so I resorted to this.
Jebinc’s Plaid Vibration Experiment Results!!!
First, please refer to the thread below for detail information about this affliction, as that will not be discussed in this thread. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/refreshed-model-s-model-vibration-tracking-and-information-thread.249344/#post-6202310 Second, I’m not recommending any...
I think he's pretty much nailed and convinced me that its all the same problem even for those who experience vibration at constant speed in the key mph range.
The key here is that if you've already damaged the shafts by exposing them to too much torque when the cv joint is beyond the angle design limits, then its too late. You're going to experience worse vibration at acceleration and vibration at constant speed because of either bent splines that are now uneven causing a rotation speed difference between the two halves of the joint as they rotate through the angle or bent shafts that cause vibration at certain speeds where the frequency allows harmonic addition.
The key is to lower the car as soon as you get it or as soon as the shafts are replaced to reduce the angle on the cv joints.
Tesla raised all model S's 1" via software in 2014 due to media coverage on battery strikes. I lowered my car 1" 55K miles ago with 3d printed links. I also had to add adjustable rear camber links because the camber was even more negative after lowering 1". Fortunately toe front, aft, and front camber were all adjustable at the alignment to my targets. Some find that rear toe can't be brought into spec after lowering which requires additional suspension mods.
After 4 shaft replacements, the problem hasn't returned in 55K miles.
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jebinc
Well-Known Member
@sorka Would you mind reposting this in the main thread? A lot of sources point to that experiment thread. Thank you.I think he's pretty much nailed and convinced me that its all the same problem even for those who experience vibration at constant speed in the key mph range.
The key here is that if you've already damaged the shafts by exposing them to too much torque when the cv joint is beyond the angle design limits, then its too late. You're going to experience worse vibration at acceleration and vibration at constant speed because of either bent splines that are now uneven causing a rotation speed difference between the two halves of the joint as they rotate through the angle or bent shafts that cause vibration at certain speeds where the frequency allows harmonic addition.
The key is to lower the car as soon as you get it or as soon as the shafts are replaced to reduce the angle on the cv joints.
Tesla raised all model S's 1" via software in 2014 due to media coverage on battery strikes. I lowered my car 1" 55K miles with 3d printed links. I also had to add adjustable rear camber links because the camber was even more negative after lowering 1". Fortunately toe front and after and front camber were all adjustable at the alignment to my targets. Some find that rear toe can't be brought into spec after lowering which requires additional suspension mods.
After 4 shaft replacements, the problem hasn't returned in 55K miles.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
Do we know that the suspension was originally designed to be 1" lower? And confirmation that it hasn't been lowered back down again in later revisions? The raven update got a new smart air suspension. I wonder if it would be optimized for the new ride height or the old ride height?I think he's pretty much nailed and convinced me that its all the same problem even for those who experience vibration at constant speed in the key mph range.
The key here is that if you've already damaged the shafts by exposing them to too much torque when the cv joint is beyond the angle design limits, then its too late. You're going to experience worse vibration at acceleration and vibration at constant speed because of either bent splines that are now uneven causing a rotation speed difference between the two halves of the joint as they rotate through the angle or bent shafts that cause vibration at certain speeds where the frequency allows harmonic addition.
The key is to lower the car as soon as you get it or as soon as the shafts are replaced to reduce the angle on the cv joints.
Tesla raised all model S's 1" via software in 2014 due to media coverage on battery strikes. I lowered my car 1" 55K miles with 3d printed links. I also had to add adjustable rear camber links because the camber was even more negative after lowering 1". Fortunately toe front and after and front camber were all adjustable at the alignment to my targets. Some find that rear toe can't be brought into spec after lowering which requires additional suspension mods.
After 4 shaft replacements, the problem hasn't returned in 55K miles.
jebinc
Well-Known Member
Can we move this discussion to the “Experiment” or other vibration collector threads?
Also, and I can't stress this enough. If you have your car lowered and then have tesla do ANY suspension work at all, it is standard procedure to do a ride height calibration after any suspension work.
If you car is lowered and they do a ride height calibration, your Tesla will be raised back up to stock height WITH your lowering links in place. If you were to then re-install the stock links, your Tesla will now raise higher than stock by the amount that had previously been lowered.
If you car is lowered and they do a ride height calibration, your Tesla will be raised back up to stock height WITH your lowering links in place. If you were to then re-install the stock links, your Tesla will now raise higher than stock by the amount that had previously been lowered.
WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
Wow, that sucks. I mean, we're putting a bandaid on something that's going to get stuffed one way or another, either by accident (oops, forgot to run lowered) or just put more wear on components by running on low, which is uncomfortable.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
n2mb_racing
Active Member
You notice a difference with the suspension on the low setting? What's different about it? Besides having to raise the car to go over bumps, driveways, etc... Also, it automatically goes to low whenever you are on the highway anyway...
Indeed.
The way the ride height calibration works is that the tech measures the current height at all four corners and inputs those into system. The car is then adjusted based on the manual measurements then the tech measures again. If not at the right height, they repeat until it is.
The sad thing is that if the consumer had access to this procedure, we wouldn't need to buy lowering links but only the camber and sometimes toe links.
WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
Yes, it's less comfortable of a ride...
Does it actually go into Low on the highway? I thought it could sit at Medium. I haven't paid it too much attention, but I will next time I'm out.
It's out of warranty so I do all my own work unless it requires Toolbox or service mode access. But if I did need to bring into Tesla for any suspension related work, I would swap the factory links back in. Fortunately, this only takes about 10 minutes.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
yeah, it seems to drop into low on the highway. I haven't noticed a difference between low and medium. I think the compression and rebound are adjustable independent of ride height, so that should follow the sport vs comfort setting.
jebinc
Well-Known Member
No, just buy and install “adjustable in place” ones…
Jebinc’s review of N2itive’s RSX-2 Plaid / Refreshed MS/LR Lowering Links!
tl;dr – These are awesome; money well spent! The details First, N2itive is very responsive to answer questions, and to ship the product – I received my set only days after ordering! I decided to go with the top of the line “black” version, only because the red version was two weeks out...
teslamotorsclub.com
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If you don't loosen and retorque every single bushing at the new lower ride height, then in theory those bushings wear faster but 1" is little enough that it's hardly worth the effort.
The plaid suspension appears to have ditched the sprung bushing design which is more prone to wear. The plaid suspension is a huge leap forward.
jebinc
Well-Known Member
Changing the height does not change the spring rate. There is no difference going over bumps except if you went over something large enough to bottom out or strike the underside.
