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Plaid vs LR MS batteries

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I have a 2021 Plaid. Range differences between the LR and Plaid were negligible to me. I wanted the performance. I know the motors are different and I assume the inverters also. Sandy has done a great break down of a plaid pack but didn't specify Plaid vs LR specific differences. I've read more than a few times that I have 18650's. And found online claims that both packs are the same and others saying Paid's have 18650's and LR have 2170's.


Anybody really know the differences?
 
So the guy in the video I posted above is full of it? any videos of a LR battery tear down? I don't know where he got his information but the article is pretty long.
1) you didn’t post a video above. You posted an article.

2) the article you posted above does seem to suggest that the Model S LR uses 2170 cells, but then goes on to call them “smaller”, and has a bunch of other inconsistent information. In short, yes - the author of that article is “full of it”.

The 2021+ Refresh Model S/X Plaid and LR battery packs are identical. End of story.
 
Guys, I have a 2022 Model S LR. Got my car around Mid-December. For the most part, love the car & ride but charging & range have been an issue. Yesterday I did a full charge for a long trip usually I was getting 408 miles but yesterday it dropped to 394. Any clues..
 
Guys, I have a 2022 Model S LR. Got my car around Mid-December. For the most part, love the car & ride but charging & range have been an issue. Yesterday I did a full charge for a long trip usually I was getting 408 miles but yesterday it dropped to 394. Any clues..
Happened to me. I started with like 410, 412. Now it's like 398, 400, 402. Google search says this is normal.
 
Guys, I have a 2022 Model S LR. Got my car around Mid-December. For the most part, love the car & ride but charging & range have been an issue. Yesterday I did a full charge for a long trip usually I was getting 408 miles but yesterday it dropped to 394. Any clues..
Factors that I find impact range the most:
- Temperature - This makes a big difference, when it's cold there is far less regen.
- Terrain - For the same trip it should be very similar, however trips with different elevation changes can make a huge difference.
- Traffic - The more you change speed the lower the range. Even freeway driving with 10 mph swings can make a difference.
- Wind - Headwind versus tailwind.
 
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Factors that I find impact range the most:
- Temperature - This makes a big difference, when it's cold there is far less regen.
- Terrain - For the same trip it should be very similar, however trips with different elevation changes can make a huge difference.
- Traffic - The more you change speed the lower the range. Even freeway driving with 10 mph swings can make a difference.
- Wind - Headwind versus tailwind.

Yes, all of those impact the actual range you get.

None of them, on the other hand, impact the range the car shows.
 
Factors that I find impact range the most:
- Temperature - This makes a big difference, when it's cold there is far less regen.
- Terrain - For the same trip it should be very similar, however trips with different elevation changes can make a huge difference.
- Traffic - The more you change speed the lower the range. Even freeway driving with 10 mph swings can make a difference.
- Wind - Headwind versus tailwind.

Is "Traffic" (as defined, i.e. speed variation) a significant factor for city driving too (think a local expressway)? Max speed: 55mph, Has signals, speeds alternating between 30-50mph.
 
it is not true as you slow down you save electrons you would have otherwise spent going at a higher speed even if regen is 0% efficient i.e. friction brakes. Slowing down always saves electricity.
Then when you speed back up you use significantly more power to get back up to your desired speed. I.e. it's the constantly changing speed that is the issue, versus maintaining a constant high speed. Yes, if you slow down, and remain slow, you will save energy due to less wind resistance, however that is not what I am talking about.
 
Factors that I find impact range the most:
- Temperature - This makes a big difference, when it's cold there is far less regen.
- Terrain - For the same trip it should be very similar, however trips with different elevation changes can make a huge difference.
- Traffic - The more you change speed the lower the range. Even freeway driving with 10 mph swings can make a difference.
- Wind - Headwind versus tailwind.
None of what you listed has to do with Full State of Charge level the battery reports. Which also has nothing to do with efficiency. This has to do with degradation (or calibration).
 
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Then when you speed back up you use significantly more power to get back up to your desired speed. I.e. it's the constantly changing speed that is the issue, versus maintaining a constant high speed. Yes, if you slow down, and remain slow, you will save energy due to less wind resistance, however that is not what I am talking about.

that is not true. You will always use less power slowing down regardless of how much speed variation there is because you save energy while you go slower. Slowing down will always save you energy. yes, you have to use energy to speed back up to i.e. 100 but that is energy you never expended to start with because you slowed down.

This only holds true if you have to maintain your average speed i.e. rather than driving 100 you will speed up to 120kmh to make up for the loss in i.e. an 80 zone earlier. But this is not how it works.
 
that is not true. You will always use less power slowing down regardless of how much speed variation there is because you save energy while you go slower. Slowing down will always save you energy. yes, you have to use energy to speed back up to i.e. 100 but that is energy you never expended to start with because you slowed down.

This only holds true if you have to maintain your average speed i.e. rather than driving 100 you will speed up to 120kmh to make up for the loss in i.e. an 80 zone earlier. But this is not how it works.
 
that is not true. You will always use less power slowing down regardless of how much speed variation there is because you save energy while you go slower. Slowing down will always save you energy. yes, you have to use energy to speed back up to i.e. 100 but that is energy you never expended to start with because you slowed down.

This only holds true if you have to maintain your average speed i.e. rather than driving 100 you will speed up to 120kmh to make up for the loss in i.e. an 80 zone earlier. But this is not how it works.
You two are arguing separate points.

Driving slower will use less energy than driving faster. If targeting an average speed of X, maintaining that speed constantly rather than having variations above and below the average will be more efficient. Regenerative braking helps for those cases where you have no choice but to slow down, but if maintaining a constant speed is an option, that will always be more efficient.

(With EVs. With ICE cars there's another variable in that ICE motors are inherently more efficient at full load, partly due to less pumping loss... but that's not a factor here)
 
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