Plate fixing tip

[paulobrien]

Like many on here I removed the stock plate frames and also put a private plate on.

As with previous cars, I used heavy duty velcro, this stuff - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00186Q7XY

This is not your average cheap velcro - your plate is not going anywhere and it takes some serious force to remove.

Nice thin profile, good curve on the front, highly recommended!

Pics attached.

View media item 121747
View media item 121748

 

[MOBB]

I recently started using the 3m version, so much better than sticky pads

And if it’s crooked, take it off and try again

 

[paulobrien]

Added bonus that when I change the car, its dead easy to put the original plates back on!

 

[Neilman]

So, if you'll pardon the phrase - how much of the velcro did you use and where did you stick it?

 

[pgkevet]

Added bonus that when I change the car, its dead easy to put the original plates back on!

And no speeding fines meanwhile...

 

[Dilly]

I thought they were a rip-off

 

[paulobrien]

So, if you'll pardon the phrase - how much of the velcro did you use and where did you stick it?

The pack comes with enough to do 2 strips for each plate covering the full width, which pretty much covers the whole surface!

 

[Pazz]

3M VHB is great for the rear plate. Stick on for the front

 

[SR-Plus]

And they’re easy to pull off to clean behind?
Did you remove not only the plastic surrounding but also the plastic fixed plate behind that? Thanks.

 

[Glan gluaisne]

For the rear plate, I just removed the entire Tesla monstrosity and fitted a standard size perspex plate to the boot lid with 3M VHB tape. The front is a bit more tricky, as there is a two axis curve in that area, plus there are two screw holes left by the Tesla plate holder. I tried a stick on plate at first, but soon got two air bubbles behind it, where the screw holes for the Tesla plate holder were. It was also difficult to get the stick on plate to conform well to the two axes bend needed.

I removed the stick on front plate (using warm air to make it come off more easily) and replaced the rear section of the Tesla front plate holder. This is slightly smaller all around than a standard UK plate, but has a front surface that is fairly flat and only curved in one axis. It was very easy to fit a standard perspex plate to this part, using more 3M VHB tape. When fitted like this, the rear part of the Tesla from plate holder is pretty invisible, and using it in this way makes lining the plate up when fitting a heck of a lot easier.

 

[hingus2000]

Like many on here I removed the stock plate frames and also put a private plate on.

As with previous cars, I used heavy duty velcro, this stuff - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00186Q7XY

This is not your average cheap velcro - your plate is not going anywhere and it takes some serious force to remove.

Nice thin profile, good curve on the front, highly recommended!

Pics attached.

View media item 121747
View media item 121748

Will removing the tape (at the end of a lease, for example) damage the car’s paintwork underneath?

 

[paulobrien]

Will removing the tape (at the end of a lease, for example) damage the car’s paintwork underneath?

In this instance, I'll just put the old plates on the same velcro so no risk.

That said, in all my many cars I've never had velcro, tape or anything else damage paint!

 

[SR-Plus]

For the rear plate, I just removed the entire Tesla monstrosity and fitted a standard size perspex plate to the boot lid with 3M VHB tape. The front is a bit more tricky, as there is a two axis curve in that area, plus there are two screw holes left by the Tesla plate holder. I tried a stick on plate at first, but soon got two air bubbles behind it, where the screw holes for the Tesla plate holder were. It was also difficult to get the stick on plate to conform well to the two axes bend needed.

I removed the stick on front plate (using warm air to make it come off more easily) and replaced the rear section of the Tesla front plate holder. This is slightly smaller all around than a standard UK plate, but has a front surface that is fairly flat and only curved in one axis. It was very easy to fit a standard perspex plate to this part, using more 3M VHB tape. When fitted like this, the rear part of the Tesla from plate holder is pretty invisible, and using it in this way makes lining the plate up when fitting a heck of a lot easier.

thanks for this useful information

 

[Elsig]

As many others I don't like the plastic frames. At the same time I don't want to stick vinyl or any tape directly to the car.

I was thinking to remove the plastic Tesla frame but keep the original plastic backing on the front and rear.

Then use velcro directly on the existing plastic mount and stick the original plates back on. For the front I might spray the mount white to go with the car.

Has anyone done a this? I did search but most posts talk about vinyl or sticking directly on to the car which I don't want to do.

Found these in amazon, good reviews.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Klettmax-F...ate+velcro&qid=1605173861&s=automotive&sr=1-4

 

[AndrewGR]

What’s the problem with sticking vinyl or tape directly to the car? In the unlikely event that the original paint is damaged it will be covered by replacement plates or the original Tesla plate holder when the car is moved on.

in my case I removed the Tesla plate holders completely and attached the supplied aluminium plates with heavy duty sticky pads. No issues at the back where it is flat. The front plate just needed a slight curve applying before attaching. They’ve been there for about 9 months / 10000 miles so far and seem as solid as when they were fitted.

 

[nrps1]

What’s the problem with sticking vinyl or tape directly to the car? In the unlikely event that the original paint is damaged it will be covered by replacement plates or the original Tesla plate holder when the car is moved on.

in my case I removed the Tesla plate holders completely and attached the supplied aluminium plates with heavy duty sticky pads. No issues at the back where it is flat. The front plate just needed a slight curve applying before attaching. They’ve been there for about 9 months / 10000 miles so far and seem as solid as when they were fitted.

When you say the supplied aluminium plates, which ones are those please?

 

[AndrewGR]

The plates that were on my car when I collected it were aluminium. I was able to gently curve the front one over my thigh to match the curve of the front of the car before attaching with heavy duty sticky pads about 1.5 mm thick. Good enough job for me! Possibly not quite as neat as a stick on plate but no worries about screw holes needing to be filled or showing through as bubbles.

 

[pharwood]

For the rear plate, I just removed the entire Tesla monstrosity and fitted a standard size perspex plate to the boot lid with 3M VHB tape. The front is a bit more tricky, as there is a two axis curve in that area, plus there are two screw holes left by the Tesla plate holder. I tried a stick on plate at first, but soon got two air bubbles behind it, where the screw holes for the Tesla plate holder were. It was also difficult to get the stick on plate to conform well to the two axes bend needed.

I removed the stick on front plate (using warm air to make it come off more easily) and replaced the rear section of the Tesla front plate holder. This is slightly smaller all around than a standard UK plate, but has a front surface that is fairly flat and only curved in one axis. It was very easy to fit a standard perspex plate to this part, using more 3M VHB tape. When fitted like this, the rear part of the Tesla from plate holder is pretty invisible, and using it in this way makes lining the plate up when fitting a heck of a lot easier.

Exactly what I did. Easy to do and looks good.