Can't speak for others but the tax credit has no bearing on my decision in a general sense (I'd prefer to get it for 2017 if I'm going to get it, but if I'm going to have to wait until 2018 I don't care much either way). If the standard battery was first production I'd probably just change my preference to AWD though. The standard battery is completely unsuitable for my uses.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Can't speak for others but the tax credit has no bearing on my decision in a general sense (I'd prefer to get it for 2017 if I'm going to get it, but if I'm going to have to wait until 2018 I don't care much either way). If the standard battery was first production I'd probably just change my preference to AWD though. The standard battery is completely unsuitable for my uses.
At first I though the standard range would work but considering the cold climate I live in I think I want the extra range primarily to counter act the effect of cold weather. We often make 150-180 mile day trips they are however on super chargerer routes but I don't feel my family would be accepting of adding super charger stops to our day trips in winter. I'm thinking the long range version would provide 200 miles in even the worst of scenarios. (Sub zero temps, strong head wind, driving snow, while maintaining a warm toasty cabin temp)
Last edited:
Tapering. The SR car will be closer to requiring a full charge to get to the next supercharger and thus the charge time will be longer.
That will really add up on a longer trip like San Diego to San Francisco.
All of you are correct in analyzing your own travel patterns. In my case the most frequent travel route is Los Angeles to Mammoth. From the spreadsheet on this forum which I downloaded I estimated that the the round trip would have 98 minutes of charge stops in a 90D but 141 minutes in a 70D, so I went with the larger battery. YMMV.
And yes I agree that much of the LR extra cost will hold up for resale valuer.
dgpcolorado
high altitude member
If I go with a Model 3 I will wait for a year or more because I can't qualify for more than a tiny portion of the federal tax credit. The version I am leaning toward is $35k (base) + $9k (LR) + $1k (paint) + $1k (delivery) - $5k (Colorado tax credit) = $41k
For a bit more money I might be able to get a pretty good CPO S with a big battery to replace my current S60, so that's my other option.
For a bit more money I might be able to get a pretty good CPO S with a big battery to replace my current S60, so that's my other option.
EVNow
Well-Known Member
dgpcolorado
high altitude member
Won't work if Tesla structures it as they do with the Model S/X. The federal tax credit is added to the residual value, thus decreasing payments. But lease-to-own doesn't work because the residual is inflated by the tax credit. Just leasing with an eye toward turning in the car at lease end is a bit of a problem because I greatly exceed 15k miles per year. Also, leasing means I lose a lot of the Colorado tax credit.
Yes, I've been around this track before. If Tesla's financial partner were to structure their leases as Nissan does, that would certainly be an option!
[I tell myself that waiting until 2019 gives Tesla time to work the bugs out and gives me time to see if Tesla can pull off successful Model 3 production, service, and continue to be a viable company.]
Last edited:
WhiskySTL
Member
I think leasing is a pretty good deal with a Tesla even for high mileage drivers because they only charge $0.25/mile for overage and racking up high mileage on a Tesla over the first 3 years of ownership will cost you at least $0.25/mile in depreciation. The other upside to leasing is that when they come out with newer features or lower prices (like they've done recently with the P100D) it doesn't affect your lease deal like it would if you owned the car and all of a sudden it dropped in value because new cars are cheaper or they have some killer new feature your car doesn't have.
dgpcolorado
high altitude member
Just leasing and paying the overage for mileage is a valid strategy that I have considered. I wonder if the extra mileage charge for the less expensive 3 will be less than 25¢ per mile?
sneakypotato
Member
I've decided that I don't really need the long range, and instead I can get the PUP and Enhanced Autopilot without breaking 50k.
If you're planning on driving super long distances it obviously makes sense to get the Long Range, but personally the extra range is not worth the price to me when there are other options to be had.
If you're planning on driving super long distances it obviously makes sense to get the Long Range, but personally the extra range is not worth the price to me when there are other options to be had.
I had a leased BMW 3 Series back in 2006 and the overage on it was $0.25/mile too. That was the only other lease I've had, but it makes me wonder if that is some standard rate all lease companies charge.
thebigbobowski
Member
Same cost for overage on my Chevy Volt lease as well. Seems pretty standard.
