TimothyHW3
Active Member
Hate to disappoint you guys, but you all have a degredation
The thing is, for some of you the degradation is over their rated capacity, this is why it is hidden from you
There is an EPA rated consumption which Tesla uses to calculate the 310 miles. It is around 245Wh (in km it is 153Wh/km) on the AWD and a bit less on RWD. You can see what your rated consumption is by pressing the tabs menu and open energy - then consumption and drive with the same consumption around the line that says "typical" - then it will show you the typical consumption value(otherwise is just a line)
Now, here comes the fun part. At 499/500km rated* 15.3Wh/100 km we get a standard rated pack of around 76.5 kWh that Tesla is using for their calculation. Well, cell chemistry doesn't work like that - not all packs are exactly identical. Most have around 77 some even 78kWh. So, if you got lucky and have a 78kWh out of the box or close, you have around 1.5% degradation until you even get to your rated miles of 310 on screen.
The next thing you have to keep in mind is that depending on the battery temperature there will be slight deviations in capacity kWh, jumping up and down.
And also rounding errors because there is almost 1% difference from 89.6% to 90.4%( it is the same 90% on display).
And now you see how you go from 0% degradation to almost 3% degradation
You can follow uncle Bjørn's advice and do a 100-5% drive test and see how much kWh you can pull , the drive needs to be constant and around the rated typical of 245Wh/m. But then you will still only guestimate, because you do not know how many kWh your battery was initially. But you will at least have a new base value in kWh, which you can use for further calculation of degradation.
And It is actually better to change your system UI to km, because there is even bigger discrepancy in miles, which you can't measure due to miles being roughly 1.6* than km.
So this will add almost 4% total difference if you measure degredation in rated miles instead of KMs (taking into account the other things I mentioned)
So there you have it. You can hardly measure degradation in rated miles. Especially if Tesla changes the rated miles from update to update or change something else in the voltage reading
But the bottom line is, if you are getting close to 495-500km on AWD and 520 on RWD
(change to KM, quick, do it noow(with Arnold's voice)!) at 100%, you will be fine. Even around 490 on AWD and 510 on RWD should be ok after 20,000 miles.
You still have degradation as anyone else, but it is nothing to worry about.
The thing is, for some of you the degradation is over their rated capacity, this is why it is hidden from youThere is an EPA rated consumption which Tesla uses to calculate the 310 miles. It is around 245Wh (in km it is 153Wh/km) on the AWD and a bit less on RWD. You can see what your rated consumption is by pressing the tabs menu and open energy - then consumption and drive with the same consumption around the line that says "typical" - then it will show you the typical consumption value(otherwise is just a line)
Now, here comes the fun part. At 499/500km rated* 15.3Wh/100 km we get a standard rated pack of around 76.5 kWh that Tesla is using for their calculation. Well, cell chemistry doesn't work like that - not all packs are exactly identical. Most have around 77 some even 78kWh. So, if you got lucky and have a 78kWh out of the box or close, you have around 1.5% degradation until you even get to your rated miles of 310 on screen.
The next thing you have to keep in mind is that depending on the battery temperature there will be slight deviations in capacity kWh, jumping up and down.
And also rounding errors because there is almost 1% difference from 89.6% to 90.4%( it is the same 90% on display).
And now you see how you go from 0% degradation to almost 3% degradation
You can follow uncle Bjørn's advice and do a 100-5% drive test and see how much kWh you can pull , the drive needs to be constant and around the rated typical of 245Wh/m. But then you will still only guestimate, because you do not know how many kWh your battery was initially. But you will at least have a new base value in kWh, which you can use for further calculation of degradation.
And It is actually better to change your system UI to km, because there is even bigger discrepancy in miles, which you can't measure due to miles being roughly 1.6* than km.
So this will add almost 4% total difference if you measure degredation in rated miles instead of KMs (taking into account the other things I mentioned)
So there you have it. You can hardly measure degradation in rated miles. Especially if Tesla changes the rated miles from update to update or change something else in the voltage reading
But the bottom line is, if you are getting close to 495-500km on AWD and 520 on RWD
(change to KM, quick, do it noow(with Arnold's voice)!) at 100%, you will be fine. Even around 490 on AWD and 510 on RWD should be ok after 20,000 miles.
You still have degradation as anyone else, but it is nothing to worry about.
Last edited:
