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POLL: vibration felt when slightly accelerating refresh Mode S Plaid or LR

Are you experiencing this issue with your Plaid or LR refresh?


  • Total voters
    319
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Believe it when I see it. Part numbers!! Pictures of the old shafts next to the “new” ones!!

We'll see.

Update from SA:

I misspoke when we talked, it’s same part same rev. just a tighter tolerance part from the supplier. The engineering team thinks this should help it.

That's interesting. I don't quite understand how the variability in the cars' geometries somehow trigger some vehicles to have the vibration while others don't, but I could see how a tighter CV joint could reduce the vibration. I'd also be interested in stuffing more grease in the CV joints, as someone mentioned earlier. But, I don't know how much will actually stay inside the critical surfaces in the joint, rather than just flinging to the inside of the boot.
 
We'll see.

Update from SA:



That's interesting. I don't quite understand how the variability in the cars' geometries somehow trigger some vehicles to have the vibration while others don't, but I could see how a tighter CV joint could reduce the vibration. I'd also be interested in stuffing more grease in the CV joints, as someone mentioned earlier. But, I don't know how much will actually stay inside the critical surfaces in the joint, rather than just flinging to the inside of the boot.
Afraid they’re addressing the symptom and not the cause
 
Afraid they’re addressing the symptom and not the cause

I think the half shafts are the piece of the car that is vibrating, because replacing them twice on my car caused the vibrations to go away temporarily. Unless that was somehow related to disassembly and reassembly, and not the part replacement.

Also, lowering the car reduces the half shaft CV joint angle and eliminates the vibration... So, again pointing to an issue with the design of the half shafts.

However, manufacturing variability in the half shafts doesn't explain why some cars have it and some cars don't. If that were the case, then I would expect that just swapping shafts once or twice would find a good set and cause the issue to go away. So, it must be related to some other manufacturing or calibration issue. I.e. My car has just slightly higher CV joint angles than the other cars that don't have the vibration. Maybe some extra shim in the motor mounts from the bend of my frame, or the ride height calibration is slightly different on my car... whatever.
 
However, manufacturing variability in the half shafts doesn't explain why some cars have it and some cars don't. If that were the case, then I would expect that just swapping shafts once or twice would find a good set and cause the issue to go away.

It might be the majority of the shafts are out of tolerance, but deemed "within spec"

We know that has happened elsewhere ..
 
We'll see.

Update from SA:



That's interesting. I don't quite understand how the variability in the cars' geometries somehow trigger some vehicles to have the vibration while others don't, but I could see how a tighter CV joint could reduce the vibration. I'd also be interested in stuffing more grease in the CV joints, as someone mentioned earlier. But, I don't know how much will actually stay inside the critical surfaces in the joint, rather than just flinging to the inside of the boot.
If they say there's tighter tolerances, where are they getting that info from?
 
Lowering car does not resolve the vibration on my car. Shaft angle also doesn’t explain variability with weather. I’m absolute convinced now vibration is significantly less in warmer weather.

Warped half shafts must be a consequence of what’s causing the vibration.
 
Lowering car does not resolve the vibration on my car. Shaft angle also doesn’t explain variability with weather. I’m absolute convinced now vibration is significantly less in warmer weather.

Warped half shafts must be a consequence of what’s causing the vibration.
It’s the angle front vs rear. You can feel the vibration change when cruising at around 40mph when you switch suspension height. Raising it makes it works (which ironically is the opposite of how my car behaved when new). With lowering links just on the front of my car and leaving the car in low, the vibration is better on my car, though still noticeable.
 
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It’s the angle front vs rear. You can feel the vibration change when cruising at around 40mph when you switch suspension height. Raising it makes it works (which ironically is the opposite of how my car behaved when new). With lowering links just on the front of my car and leaving the car in low, the vibration is better on my car, though still noticeable.
I’m not quite sure I follow. It’s not like this is a RWD vehicle where changing front ride hight can effect rear pinion angle. If it was such a simple fix Tesla likely would have corrected it from outset or issued fix by now. I’m thinking its a more complex issue.

To above poster, if half shafts are coming out true why is Tesla replacing them in the first place?
 
Lowering car does not resolve the vibration on my car. Shaft angle also doesn’t explain variability with weather. I’m absolute convinced now vibration is significantly less in warmer weather.

Warped half shafts must be a consequence of what’s causing the vibration.

This is the root cause and explained in good detail here

 
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Reactions: WilliamG
I’m not quite sure I follow. It’s not like this is a RWD vehicle where changing front ride hight can effect rear pinion angle. If it was such a simple fix Tesla likely would have corrected it from outset or issued fix by now. I’m thinking its a more complex issue.

To above poster, if half shafts are coming out true why is Tesla replacing them in the first place?
I’m not saying that the root cause is ride height. I am saying that ride height does affect the vibration. It’s easy to test, too.
This is the root cause and explained in good detail here

You’re in the wrong thread. This is nothing to do with the tire-shredding issue.