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Potential sway bar link issues from factory?

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Yes sway bar. I am concerned because it was very difficult to remove from the stock strut and I am just thinking out loud since it’s a May 2020 build which was in in the 3000 ra
I didn’t removed the entire sway bar links so I couldn’t have mixed them up. I had only removed the top 18mm nut and that’s it. But I had to fight it for 15 minutes to remove the sway bar from the strut.

Is it possible you're having this trouble because there's no weight from the car on the suspension? It's often that case that things are weirdly misaligned when the car is raised on jacks instead of on a platform lift.

Related to this is that generally when working on suspension links, arms and bushings, it's good to do the final tightening when the car is sitting as normal, on the wheels/tires and not with the springs pushing down on the out-of-position suspension members. This doesn't apply so much to ball joints, but if you tighten up a control-arm bushing with the suspension unloaded like that, it will then be twisted and under a lot of torsion stress in the intended "rest" position after you lower the car to the ground. This will mess up the intended ride characteristics and greatly shorten the life of the bushing.
 
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Looks good so far. Going the lowest recommend. Man is going to be low. I can’t getaway with that height here. I’m just going to lower it 1 inch from my LR. I don’t know what that transition to when comparing MYP....1/2 lower??
 
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Newbie suspension DiY install here.

Any tip to make the install go much smoother (aside from knowing which side is which), or special tool needed?
If it’s the Y, taking out the strut wasn’t too bad. You for sure want to use spring compressor rent it free at Autozone. I used a drill to compress it quickly.

It’s putting it back in was hard for me because I was doing it myself. I had my wife help me by pushing up the Front Upper Control Arms to get the strut in. Once the strut is in, use a jack to assist with lining up the bolt and nuts for the based of the new strut and sway bar link. Without a jack it possible but a bit harder because you have to line it up with the sway bar and connect it back to the upper control arm. DM me I can walk you through it.
 
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If it’s the Y, taking out the strut wasn’t too bad. You for sure want to use spring compressor rent it free at Autozone. I used a drill to compress it quickly.

It’s putting it back in was hard for me because I was doing it myself. I had my wife help me by pushing up the Front Upper Control Arms to get the strut in. Once the strut is in, use a jack to assist with lining up the bolt and nuts for the based of the new strut and sway bar link. Without a jack it possible but a bit harder because you have to line it up with the sway bar and connect it back to the upper control arm. DM me I can walk you through it.
Thanks for that. I'd definitely get with you when it's install time. Ordered mid-Feb, so few more weeks.
 
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Is it possible you're having this trouble because there's no weight from the car on the suspension? It's often that case that things are weirdly misaligned when the car is raised on jacks instead of on a platform lift.

Related to this is that generally when working on suspension links, arms and bushings, it's good to do the final tightening when the car is sitting as normal, on the wheels/tires and not with the springs pushing down on the out-of-position suspension members. This doesn't apply so much to ball joints, but if you tighten up a control-arm bushing with the suspension unloaded like that, it will then be twisted and under a lot of torsion stress in the intended "rest" position after you lower the car to the ground. This will mess up the intended ride characteristics and greatly shorten the life of the bushing.
Absolutely right. Tried to remove it with no weight made it a bit difficult. The sway bar and struts needed some weight for removal and installation. I was able to use a jack to put some weight on the suspension which helped Significantly.

The first front strut removal and coilover install probably took 3 hours for me and the second front strut and coilover install tool like 1-2 hours. If it wasn’t for the fluke I wouldn’t have learned and this post would have never happened. Hopefully my feedback helps someone that is DIY.
 
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