Has anyone installed a power frunk kit on a refreshed MX? There seem to be three on the market specifically for the refresh MX, 1) Hannshow, 2) TeslaOffer and 3) YaHaSun. Any feedback on any of these? I really would like to install one but am very hesitant to put down $5-700 without some feedback! Thanks....
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Power Frunk on MX Refresh
- Thread starter Maybe22
- Start date
I installed my EVOffer frunk a few months ago and am now having issues with the unit:
1. beeper has failed, so there is no audible beep when opening or closing the frunk
2. the frunk does not lift itself unless I "double" latch/unlatch using they keyfob/MCU
Already reached out to EVOffer, but they have been less than helpful.
1. beeper has failed, so there is no audible beep when opening or closing the frunk
2. the frunk does not lift itself unless I "double" latch/unlatch using they keyfob/MCU
Already reached out to EVOffer, but they have been less than helpful.
Dyspareunia
Member
Oh, that sucks! I have an EVOffer power frunk installed in my 2017 X, since Nov 2021 and haven't had any problems so far. I did have to reach out to them via Telegram (their customer support channel) to figure out which updated firmware was needed to be downloaded from their website to have the latest version. They were relatively responsive, but I imagine there isn't much support to be offered by them for hardware failures when they are on the other side of the pacific with logistic and timezone differences. I did put in a backorder for their variant B (2021+/refresh version), due to my current satisfaction with their product, which will supposedly ship "soon" for my refresh X. I can't really do without a power frunk now and think Tesla should have had it as a standard feature.
warren10hk
Member
Hi ngng, this is Warren from EVOffer. Randomly browsing TMC and found that you are having some issues on the electric frunk system. I have sent you a message regarding the technical support. I will follow up your case and assist you on getting the system work and we will send you a new buzzer. Sorry for the inconvenience caused
Hi ngng, this is Warren from EVOffer. Randomly browsing TMC and found that you are having some issues on the electric frunk system. I have sent you a message regarding the technical support. I will follow up your case and assist you on getting the system work and we will send you a new buzzer. Sorry for the inconvenience caused
Hi Warren, I responded to your PM. It's not just the buzzer that has failed. If that were the case, I would not mind. The frunk itself does not release the first time I press the MCU or keyfob:
I have the Hansshow version for the Model S (Plaid) on order right now. I was hoping it would have gotten here by this weekend so I could install it. I have theirs on my 2021 Model 3 and it is fantastic! I did have a little difficulty getting it working on the first try, but after a quick session with tech support over WhatsApp, it has worked flawlessly. I just had to flash a new firmware version on it.
I expect the install to go easier on the Model S now that I've done it on the M3. My Model X is set to arrive in about 2-4 weeks. I'll be putting one on there as soon as I can.
I'll try to record the installation on the S and share it on YouTube in about 2-3 weeks. If that works, I'll do the same on the Model X in about a month or 2 hopefully.
I expect the install to go easier on the Model S now that I've done it on the M3. My Model X is set to arrive in about 2-4 weeks. I'll be putting one on there as soon as I can.
I'll try to record the installation on the S and share it on YouTube in about 2-3 weeks. If that works, I'll do the same on the Model X in about a month or 2 hopefully.
I think mine did that on first install. It's been a while, but I had to adjust the latch a little. Probably just needs adjustment.
I went back and thought I had the details in Telegram, but I have updated it a couple times and on sign in I seem to have lost the chat history... In my case, as I recall, I had tested the manual release cables during the install. When I went to use it I had something like you saw, that it took a couple actuations to open. When I contacted them they walked me through a reset procedure which helped and I also re-adjusted the front latch. I don't recall which fixed it, but it's possible their new firmware would address the problem I had that required reseting the open/close operation.
I would say yes no problem for a mechanically inclined person, not so much for others. Part of the problem is that bc there are still no refresh cars in China/HK, they don't have an accurate video of the steps. they have two videos which together are very close, but its not so easy. I enjoy doing this stuff so I figured it out. If you are anywhere near me (PA), im happy to help...
Just installed EVoffer kit.
I also had the problem that it didn't unlatch completely. After double clicking the fob, it needed a tiny bit of manual lifting before it started to open.
The problem is that the supplied spring is too weak, or perhaps too long? Replaced it with the original spring and it works perfectly. But it is probably now causing bigger stress to the closing motor, because it has to work against the spring load.
The initial unlatching is done using original Tesla mechanism. After unlatching, it is the spring that lifts the hood slightly. There is a microswitch in the mechanism that connects when hood is fully unlatched. This microswitch starts the power frunk lift. But with the supplied weaker spring, hood does not rise high enough for the microswitch to trigger.
About the installation, I did some changes.. In the installation video they claim that there is no easy ground position so they are using the battery terminal. I hate wires going directly to the battery and I'm sure service center doesn't like them either if they are replacing the battery for example.
There is a 10mm bolt next to the washer filling cap, in very easy place:
Also installation video suggested that the box should be installed behind the fuse box. That might work for RHD cars but in LHD car there's brake fluid reservoir in that location. I punched small holes in the rubber cover under the fuse box, and attached the box there with zip ties:
Then the opening motor. Video showed a really awkward place in the front, under head light. Then the cable was too long and looked like it's impossible to get it neat and tidy without sharp bends etc.
I found a better place towards the rear of the head light, under it. It first looks like it doesn't fit there but then it suddenly just clicks in place like a Lego brick. I'm sure it would stay there on it's own, but I secured it with the supplied long zip tie. The opening cable is exactly correct length, it just reaches without bends.
Edit: bah just realized this thread was about refresh MX, I have a 2016.
Sorry.
I also had the problem that it didn't unlatch completely. After double clicking the fob, it needed a tiny bit of manual lifting before it started to open.
The problem is that the supplied spring is too weak, or perhaps too long? Replaced it with the original spring and it works perfectly. But it is probably now causing bigger stress to the closing motor, because it has to work against the spring load.
The initial unlatching is done using original Tesla mechanism. After unlatching, it is the spring that lifts the hood slightly. There is a microswitch in the mechanism that connects when hood is fully unlatched. This microswitch starts the power frunk lift. But with the supplied weaker spring, hood does not rise high enough for the microswitch to trigger.
About the installation, I did some changes.. In the installation video they claim that there is no easy ground position so they are using the battery terminal. I hate wires going directly to the battery and I'm sure service center doesn't like them either if they are replacing the battery for example.
There is a 10mm bolt next to the washer filling cap, in very easy place:
Also installation video suggested that the box should be installed behind the fuse box. That might work for RHD cars but in LHD car there's brake fluid reservoir in that location. I punched small holes in the rubber cover under the fuse box, and attached the box there with zip ties:
Then the opening motor. Video showed a really awkward place in the front, under head light. Then the cable was too long and looked like it's impossible to get it neat and tidy without sharp bends etc.
I found a better place towards the rear of the head light, under it. It first looks like it doesn't fit there but then it suddenly just clicks in place like a Lego brick. I'm sure it would stay there on it's own, but I secured it with the supplied long zip tie. The opening cable is exactly correct length, it just reaches without bends.
Edit: bah just realized this thread was about refresh MX, I have a 2016.
Sorry.
Last edited:
iCeMaNxLb
Member
do any vendors offer the rear trunk tail gate kick sensor? that's something i use quite often in my MYP
Just installed EVoffer kit.
I also had the problem that it didn't unlatch completely. After double clicking the fob, it needed a tiny bit of manual lifting before it started to open.
The problem is that the supplied spring is too weak, or perhaps too long? Replaced it with the original spring and it works perfectly. But it is probably now causing bigger stress to the closing motor, because it has to work against the spring load.
The initial unlatching is done using original Tesla mechanism. After unlatching, it is the spring that lifts the hood slightly. There is a microswitch in the mechanism that connects when hood is fully unlatched. This microswitch starts the power frunk lift. But with the supplied weaker spring, hood does not rise high enough for the microswitch to trigger.
About the installation, I did some changes.. In the installation video they claim that there is no easy ground position so they are using the battery terminal. I hate wires going directly to the battery and I'm sure service center doesn't like them either if they are replacing the battery for example.
There is a 10mm bolt next to the washer filling cap, in very easy place:
View attachment 795025
Also installation video suggested that the box should be installed behind the fuse box. That might work for RHD cars but in LHD car there's brake fluid reservoir in that location. I punched small holes in the rubber cover under the fuse box, and attached the box there with zip ties:
View attachment 795024
Then the opening motor. Video showed a really awkward place in the front, under head light. Then the cable was too long and looked like it's impossible to get it neat and tidy without sharp bends etc.
I found a better place towards the rear of the head light, under it. It first looks like it doesn't fit there but then it suddenly just clicks in place like a Lego brick. I'm sure it would stay there on it's own, but I secured it with the supplied long zip tie. The opening cable is exactly correct length, it just reaches without bends.
View attachment 795023
Edit: bah just realized this thread was about refresh MX, I have a 2016.
Okay, so I am not going crazy!
You make a good point regarding ground. Any conductive metal that is grounded to the battery can be used: frame, doors, etc. No need to run directly to the battery.
One of my biggest complaints is that there was no thought put into how to secure the hardware.
