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Power Frunk on Raven Model S (MARK 3.0 version)

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I installed the Tesla Offer (MARK 3.0) Power Frunk on a post-facelift Model S.

I found a couple of videos... all on pre-facelift model S. All other videos were also the prior version of this unit (Mark 3.0), which is quite different in terms of power module and wiring harness.

Tesla Offer did make a video installing the Power Frunk MARK 3.0 on a Model X ... and here's their video of installing a prior version of the unit on a pre-facelift Model S. I recommend you watch both videos. The Model X one to understand the new harness and control unit, and the Model S one to understand where to get power/ground from, how to modify the latch, and where to run the signal cable.

I would also like to note that I had to remove the front bumper to do this right. Else I could access the latch very well. With the bumper off, I also had a good spot to properly mount and secure the latch motor. To remove the bumper I unclipped it all around, and from both fenders, pulled it off the front from the driver side and left it hanging on the passenger side where the wiring harness is. I rested it on a towel over a couple of blocks just in front of the car, giving me plenty of room to access the latch and surrounding area. If you are unsure on how to remove the front bumper, this video helped me out.

Hope someone else is about to do the install on a similar setup and can find this useful.


PS: The power frunk works great, well integrated into the car's MCU and remote. The new 3.0 version of the unit uses water tight electrical connectors, a single well built wiring harness, and the control unit can also be upgraded via an SD card. There is also a button built into the control unit, so no need to set speed and initialization using an external button like prior versions.
 
I hope for your sake they get everything sorted on the rev 3 of this kit. There's a few people talking about long term issues although I'm not sure that we can really call it "long term" if they're reporting issues after less than a year. Do some searches as there's a couple of lengthy threads about these kits and several members who have installed them, had them adjusted properly, and then had issues down the road that appears to be shock/strut-related possibly.
 
I hope for your sake they get everything sorted on the rev 3 of this kit. There's a few people talking about long term issues although I'm not sure that we can really call it "long term" if they're reporting issues after less than a year. Do some searches as there's a couple of lengthy threads about these kits and several members who have installed them, had them adjusted properly, and then had issues down the road that appears to be shock/strut-related possibly.

I did search, and decided to go forward with the Tesla Offer one instead of the Hanshow (sp?) model because of some of the reliability things you mentioned.
 
I installed the Tesla Offer (MARK 3.0) Power Frunk on a post-facelift Model S.

I found a couple of videos... all on pre-facelift model S. All other videos were also the prior version of this unit (Mark 3.0), which is quite different in terms of power module and wiring harness.

Tesla Offer did make a video installing the Power Frunk MARK 3.0 on a Model X ... and here's their video of installing a prior version of the unit on a pre-facelift Model S. I recommend you watch both videos. The Model X one to understand the new harness and control unit, and the Model S one to understand where to get power/ground from, how to modify the latch, and where to run the signal cable.

I would also like to note that I had to remove the front bumper to do this right. Else I could access the latch very well. With the bumper off, I also had a good spot to properly mount and secure the latch motor. To remove the bumper I unclipped it all around, and from both fenders, pulled it off the front from the driver side and left it hanging on the passenger side where the wiring harness is. I rested it on a towel over a couple of blocks just in front of the car, giving me plenty of room to access the latch and surrounding area. If you are unsure on how to remove the front bumper, this video helped me out.

Hope someone else is about to do the install on a similar setup and can find this useful.


PS: The power frunk works great, well integrated into the car's MCU and remote. The new 3.0 version of the unit uses water tight electrical connectors, a single well built wiring harness, and the control unit can also be upgraded via an SD card. There is also a button built into the control unit, so no need to set speed and initialization using an external button like prior versions.

I have installed about 10 of these to facelift S.
You do not need to remove the bumper, all you need is 10mm ratchet wrench and you can open the latch bolts. Be careful not to drop those metal washers under the bolts.

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Hi All. Im in the middle of this install and having some issues even after watching the videos.
Two things:
All is wired per the tutorials, I have power to the unit. When I press the stock emergency frunk release button or press the frunk button on my fob, the frunk makes a short noise, attempts to close, but only moves down about 1/2 inch and stops. Yes, I did initalize the module by pressing and long holding the button on the module once until it beeped. I also set the speed to 3. Whats causing the frunk to not come down further?
I also did the test of the latch by closing the latch manually. The fob and the stock frunk open button, work/successfully trigger the latch.

However, when I pull on the included emergency/manual release wire, it does nothing. It moves out from inside of the motor assembly about 1/2 inch, and it pulls itself back into the motor. So seems like its connected properly, just not doing anything when pulled.

Any tips?

2017 Model S 90D
 
also (in case it helps someone else)
Troubleshooting tip thats nowhere in the videos or documentation (not that it comes with any..documentation): If your frunk opens/closes fine, but fails to latch/pull downward the last few inches? Before you go to the effort of removing the latch assembly and adjusting the cable nuts (the two 10 or 12mm nuts), try this. It worked for me after contacting TeslaOffer support:
- Depress the button on the version 3.0 controller twice in fast succession. Fast clicks, not long presses. This "resets the latch mechanism".
- After doing this, you need to reinitialize the system (With hood up of course) by long pressing once.

Hood should then get sucked down/latch fully.
 
I can report that (after getting through my couple of issues during install), the product works fine. And if for whatever reason (selling of car?) I needed to uninstall, it can go back to complete 100% stock in about 30 mins of work. (including frunk removal). Its 100% plug and play with zero splicing/cutting of any wiring.