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Power lift gate DIY possible?

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I finally put all my panels back on. Thank you for the tip on remove the speaker grill. i will test it out more in the next week or two and then tape the spoiler on to see if it chaanges anything. I ordered from COZero but I'm sure they are all coming from the same place.

Has anyone noticed that if you move the arms, they wiggle? like it's loose?
 
I finally put all my panels back on. Thank you for the tip on remove the speaker grill. i will test it out more in the next week or two and then tape the spoiler on to see if it chaanges anything. I ordered from COZero but I'm sure they are all coming from the same place.

Has anyone noticed that if you move the arms, they wiggle? like it's loose?

Yep they wiggle and if you wiggle them allot it closes on its own. I removed artsci lighted tailgate appliqué (much heavier than the oem and I thought was producing too much bling) and it seems to work 95% of the time now, looks like their tolerances are pretty low.
 
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Few days after original install... I changed one of the arms out today and it's still doing it half the time. Either way I have to think others are having issues if there is the slightest incline, wind or rain adding some level of additional pressure on the open liftgate. Hate to say it but I just don't think the arms arent quite strong enough, the OEM only has one power arm and a slave, this has two.
Is your spoiler from tesla or aftermarket?
 
You may get lucky, temporarily tape it on and try it a few times
finally got around to do it last night. i went with original controller box instead of the so called upgrade one, reason being it looks like a used box that they got back from someone. so far so good. i'll cross my finger. i found the exact connector for the OEM liftgate switch on mouser to make it nice and clean. also, since i don't like to tap into cables i went with mating connector for the 12V & GND. make it easier to convert back if needed. overall connection was easy enough. removing and reinstalling the trim was truly royal pain in the behind.

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finally got around to do it last night. i went with original controller box instead of the so called upgrade one, reason being it looks like a used box that they got back from someone. so far so good. i'll cross my finger. i found the exact connector for the OEM liftgate switch on mouser to make it nice and clean. also, since i don't like to tap into cables i went with mating connector for the 12V & GND. make it easier to convert back if needed. overall connection was easy enough. removing and reinstalling the trim was truly royal pain in the behind.

View attachment 228404 View attachment 228405 View attachment 228406 View attachment 228407 View attachment 228408

Awesome, thanks for the pictures. How did you find the exact connector for the OEM liftgate on Mouser? Is there a part number?
 
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There's two devices back there on most cars. I haven't seen one that has only one device there. I think there was a label on the "outside" one, and it might have indicated what it was for, but sorry, I don't remember for certain.
The one we have been referring to in this thread is the liftgate controller. And the more specific discussion about a grey lead were to the specific port that is powering the controller. We've been tapping into it for a persistent power source in the rear of the car. Handy. But not for the faint of heart - so to speak. And that's a very good picture there. Thanks.
 
This is a controller for breaks , do not disconnect it the car may start rolling.
Yes, that's right. I remember now. Its the electronic emergency brake controller. Good point about not disconnecting. But for that matter, its wise not to disconnect anything. And when adding a ground, I would suggest that one should not loosening any existing ground. I'd add to an existing ground by adding another nut on top of an existing stud or making your own. Too many items on the car are always on. Any place you can, you don't want to risk creating a jump or spark between the car and a component by loosening an existing ground. Just a thought, it not worth the risk because we can't predict what might happen.
 
I have just received a power liftgate kit fro COzero, unfortunately it is a version 2 kit which does not match their installation manual. It also contains a latch base a latch cable and a latch motor which do not appear in the version 1 kit. Apparently there is no installation manual for this version ! Has anyone else received this version 2 kit ?
Has anyone else installed this version kit ?
I enclose link to image of parts provided by COzero.
https://cozero.zendesk.com/attachme...3IwFJ7uTCu/?name=COzero-Power-Liftgate-v2.png
 
I have just received a power liftgate kit fro COzero, unfortunately it is a version 2 kit which does not match their installation manual. It also contains a latch base a latch cable and a latch motor which do not appear in the version 1 kit. Apparently there is no installation manual for this version ! Has anyone else received this version 2 kit ?
Has anyone else installed this version kit ?
I enclose link to image of parts provided by COzero.
https://cozero.zendesk.com/attachme...3IwFJ7uTCu/?name=COzero-Power-Liftgate-v2.png

From what I can see the only difference between this one and 1st gen is the latch motor and latch hook. It should not be too hard to unscrew them and install the ones that come with the kit. Basic wiring and installation would be the same.
 
From what I can see the only difference between this one and 1st gen is the latch motor and latch hook. It should not be too hard to unscrew them and install the ones that come with the kit. Basic wiring and installation would be the same.
If you can make sense of the lock wiring from the text on the diagram , perhaps you can explain it to me.
I am also unclear about the wiring of the power poles, which have a rubber grommet on the wires of each pole . Does this mean drilling a new hole in the liftgate for the wiring. Any advice gratefully received.