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Powering home from Tesla

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There are technical issues. The car's battery is DC at 400 Volt. The grid is 240 Volt AC. In order to feed power back, you would need an inverter that is grid tied. It would also have to have an automatic off feature in case the power company needs to turn off the grid power in one area to do work. There can't be a source still feeding into the grid in these situations. Solar inverters do this but the car does not have the hardware to do that. So without an external inverter it's not going to happen.
The concept is definitely going to happen in the future, but either the current hardware in the Model S or X today, it's not possible.

Tesla should integrate this functionality into the PowerWall so that the car battery can act as a supplement to the PowerWall and give it more kwh's from which it could draw energy. Seems like that would be a good way to integrate and a way to sell more Powerwalls....maybe even ones with less storage at a lower price since the car battery can potentially be there as a backup.
 
@Ingineer ,
Getting closer! Because this is a "back burner" project, it's taking longer than expected.
I think you're busy with other projects, but I'm still interested in this. Would this solution work with my November 2016 build Model X? Also here in Japan many people are familiar with the Vehicle To Home (V2H) technology and would be interested in this as well.
 
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I've got an Inverter in development that can perform this function. The prototype can put out up to 3kW peak and around half that continuously. It provides a pure sine wave, and runs directly of the high-voltage battery. It also has greater than 95% conversion efficiency and is very small.

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We have a 20kW inverter now that runs directly off of a full Tesla battery pack. Shuts down automatically at a little over 300v. Will make power up to 450v. You can power your entire house with your car. Provides 240vac split phase power. EVTV Motor Verks Store: 20kW Inverter for Tesla Full Battery Pack, Solar, 20kwInverter

You do have to wire into your junction box to get to HV connections, and you have to turn the car on I guess
 

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Wow... that is... tempting. It's about 2x the cost of putting a generator in my house, which I have been considering. I wonder how much the local guys would charge for installation.

I also wonder how seemless the switchover is? Is there a brownout during switchover, or can I plug in/unplug my Tesla without worrying about the power to the house sagging?

Additionally, it says a full battery pack, but doesn't mention if the pack needs to be out of the car (ala a Powerwall style), or if I can just use the port on the car itself with an appropriate cable.

I'd be also interested to know if it has the smarts to switch over to grid power if the current draw exceeds its capacity? That would seem to be a critical component of making this thing work for daily usage. If you are just using it for emergencies, I guess it doesn't matter much.
 
Wow... that is... tempting. It's about 2x the cost of putting a generator in my house, which I have been considering. I wonder how much the local guys would charge for installation.

I also wonder how seemless the switchover is? Is there a brownout during switchover, or can I plug in/unplug my Tesla without worrying about the power to the house sagging?

Additionally, it says a full battery pack, but doesn't mention if the pack needs to be out of the car (ala a Powerwall style), or if I can just use the port on the car itself with an appropriate cable.

I'd be also interested to know if it has the smarts to switch over to grid power if the current draw exceeds its capacity? That would seem to be a critical component of making this thing work for daily usage. If you are just using it for emergencies, I guess it doesn't matter much.
If you read the description on the linked site, it is configured for battery first and when the battery gets too low it fails over to the grid. I suppose it must also shut down and fail over to grid if it overheats or there is excessive draw. It must have a complete drop to blackout when switching because I'm guessing they don't do frequency cycle matching like the PowerWall does.

In order to use the stationary pack or a vehicle connector, you need to do a little more work to get the contactor inside the pack to close and pass the HVDC out to the inverter. For a stationary pack it would be pretty simple, but you do need some 12VDC stuff to satisfy the interlocks. Getting HVDC directly out of a Tesla vehicle connector would be considerably harder since the specification is not readily available. You would probably have to go through a CHAdeMO adapter since that has full specs and protocols available. Providing an optional CHAdeMO vehicle connector with a small logic box would be a nice complementary product.