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63Hz sounds intentional where it was purposely selected to trip inverters.The technician simulated a grid outage (by flipping the main breaker) and confirmed that our solar inverters were not turning back on. He upgraded the firmware from 1.32.0 to 1.34.2, but this did not seem to make a difference. I suggested that he use his multimeter to check our line frequency during a simulated outage, and sure enough, he measured 63 Hz which is too how for the solar inverters. As expected, this also explains why our induction stove won't function on backup power.
The technician spoke with Tesla's diagnostics team and was told that there's a known firmware issue with line frequency during outages. It appears that we'll have to wait for software fixes. He encouraged me to continue to follow up with Tesla, using my case number and job number, and expressed optimism that there will be a resolution. I emphasized that being able to charge from solar during outages is important to us, given our semi-rural mountain location.
I called Tesla Energy yesterday to follow up, and "Gary" just called me back. Tesla says that they hope to fix the "high frequency" issue in the next firmware release, though they can't say exactly when that will be. Beside the issue of charging from solar during outages, Gary expressed the sentiment that we should be able to use our induction stove during outages, and that's of course frequency dependent. Needless to say, I appreciated hearing this. We also agreed upon the need to be able to charge from solar, during outages, when the ambient temperature is low.The technician spoke with Tesla's diagnostics team and was told that there's a known firmware issue with line frequency during outages. It appears that we'll have to wait for software fixes. He encouraged me to continue to follow up with Tesla, using my case number and job number, and expressed optimism that there will be a resolution. I emphasized that being able to charge from solar during outages is important to us, given our semi-rural mountain location.
"66 Hz problem" is solved and I can now run off-grid indefinitely (just completed 6 days). Tesla's technician saw that my solar inverters turned off at 60.7 Hz, so he set the cut-off frequency at 61.0 Hz. Worked like a charm. I turned off the grid power today and watched for a couple of hours as the solar inverters cycled off smoothly when the PW2s reach full charge, and turned back on when they dipped below full charge. I did not see any lock-up and the line frequency did not exceed 61 Hz. The A/C ran fine and the UPSs didn't beep. I am delighted.
Now how do the rest of us get this update to our systems?
Submit a service request.Now how do the rest of us get this update to our systems?
Get the latest firmware and contact Tesla to fix it (call or web support ticket). I'm encouraged by how easy people have found it to be now.
During outages early this year, we had no issues with the line frequency being too high for our appliances, as had been the case in my post above, from April 2019. Tesla has definitely made some fixes.
Yes, that is correct.Thanks for the response. So I assume your fix came in the form of a firmware update then instead of a direct remote fix to your system. Correct?
Has anyone had any resolution to this issue other than Phil? I had my Tesla Solar and Powerwalls installed in July and we’ve had our first few PG&E power outages this week. Same issue. Powerwalls were at 100% due to Storm Watch. They depleted down to 67% over a day and a half and when the power went out the solar shut off. The solar only came on occasionally throughout the day for very short bursts and the Powerwalls never got charged back above 80% until the grid power came back on and the solar worked again as normal. This is definitely concerning to me as It’s not unusual for my area to lose grid power for over a week. We really need to have the solar working to keep the batteries topped off during the high solar production hours of the day during a grid outage. I called Tesla and 3 days later I’m still waiting on a call back about it.
Thanks for the response. So I assume your fix came in the form of a firmware update then instead of a direct remote fix to your system. Correct?