PPF and Tint Price

[Evpowerdan]

Well after doing a hmm.... and some further googling, I am thinking I am regretting letting him do a cut in the back window. I am in talks with him now but if it looks like this, then were going to have a problem because this is not what I asked for nor agreed to in our initial conversations.

Note this is not my car or picture, just example only:
View attachment 826643

Yep - you will definitely see the tint line from inside - when the entire piece of glass is not tinted. Even tinted with 20% all the way, you'll still be able to see out of the roof glass. Everything is fixable - sure your tinter will either add a piece for the rest of the glass portion of the rear or redo the entire glass in one piece.

 

[7BaconTacos]

Yep - you will definitely see the tint line from inside - when the entire piece of glass is not tinted. Even tinted with 20% all the way, you'll still be able to see out of the roof glass. Everything is fixable - sure your tinter will either add a piece for the rest of the glass portion of the rear or redo the entire glass in one piece.

yeah its now evolved into "o i didn't mean the ENTIRE back glass, just that it would be one piece" which technically it is, so he isn't wrong. So I guess I asked the wrong question in the beginning if the back glass was going to be "one piece" and he said yeah. So I am going to go Monday and see if I like it or can live with it, if not its "an extra charge" for that.

I feel so stupid now....

 

[Evpowerdan]

yeah its now evolved into "o i didn't mean the ENTIRE back glass, just that it would be one piece" which technically it is, so he isn't wrong. So I guess I asked the wrong question in the beginning if the back glass was going to be "one piece" and he said yeah. So I am going to go Monday and see if I like it or can live with it, if not its "an extra charge" for that.

I feel so stupid now....

Don’t be - that tint shop should of explained/ educated you before they did the job. That’s what they do for a living.

When you call a tint or ppf shop and say you have a Tesla - I feel most places add a fee to doing all the windows and ppf. Only the rear window in the model 3 and huge sunroof in the Y are a little more complex due to size. However a shop that’s done a ton of them - it’s no biggie.

Same with PPF - great product which has pros and cons - however the insane price of a partial to complete car for $1500 - $6000+ is crazy money to me for a daily driver. It’s a ton of money you’ll never recoup when selling. I did a DOY partial hood, fenders and mirror caps for $100 in materials. PPF is over hyped IMO - protects from most rock chips, but like all exterior film gets old, dirty in the corners, brittle, looses it clarity over a few years and not as glossy as paint (besides when just put on).

For me - Touch up paint works well for me and a complete respect if needed to the bumper.

 

[Evpowerdan]

Clarity - For me - Touch up paint works well for me and a complete RESPRAY if needed to the bumper.

 

[julit0]

yeah its now evolved into "o i didn't mean the ENTIRE back glass, just that it would be one piece" which technically it is, so he isn't wrong. So I guess I asked the wrong question in the beginning if the back glass was going to be "one piece" and he said yeah. So I am going to go Monday and see if I like it or can live with it, if not its "an extra charge" for that.

I feel so stupid now....

Took some shots for you to show the one piece (from Pillar to Shelf) on the Back window. I got 20% on all sides and back window. I had all the doors open so it's a lot lighter on the inside than with them closed. The roof above front Driver / passenger is OEM - no film.

Sun looking through the front roof...

Now through the rear passenger roof - so a good difference.

I know that picture you posted of the rear window wasn't your car - but I would have had a hard time with that line going across. This is my rear window with full coverage in one piece.

 

[7BaconTacos]

Took some shots for you to show the one piece (from Pillar to Shelf) on the Back window. I got 20% on all sides and back window. I had all the doors open so it's a lot lighter on the inside than with them closed. The roof above front Driver / passenger is OEM - no film.
View attachment 826851
Sun looking through the front roof...
View attachment 826852
Now through the rear passenger roof - so a good difference.
View attachment 826853
I know that picture you posted of the rear window wasn't your car - but I would have had a hard time with that line going across. This is my rear window with full coverage in one piece.
View attachment 826854

thanks, this is what I was talking about that I wanted with "one-piece", not the thing that he has on there now.
I am hoping tomorrow it doesn't look horrible, but I'm guessing it's going to look silly and unfinished and just bad and I am going to have to pay another $200/300 to get it fixed.

However, I have come to the point where I would rather do that and be happy with it than to grumble every time I see that line in the back when I look at it.

I was also thinking yesterday that this is one of the world's smallest first-world problems and shouldn't let it get me down or make me feel stupid. Like it was said earlier, I didn't know I shouldn't get upset or down because of it.

That was the worst part of my yesterday finding that, and in the grand scheme of things isn't that big of a deal because its either going to get fixed or I will live with it.

I guess what I am saying is there are worst things in the world to get mad/upset/sad at, and when you step back we all here are pretty lucky to be able to have and play with these things. Just a bump in the road, lets move on

I will update tomorrow with what I find and more pictures of what it looks like.

Thanks all!

 

[julit0]

However, I have come to the point where I would rather do that and be happy with it than to grumble every time I see that line in the back when I look at it.

I was also thinking yesterday that this is one of the world's smallest first-world problems and shouldn't let it get me down or make me feel stupid. Like it was said earlier, I didn't know I shouldn't get upset or down because of it.

That was the worst part of my yesterday finding that, and in the grand scheme of things isn't that big of a deal because its either going to get fixed or I will live with it.

I guess what I am saying is there are worst things in the world to get mad/upset/sad at, and when you step back we all here are pretty lucky to be able to have and play with these things. Just a bump in the road, lets move on

Great perspective to have, and very true.

I had some minor hitches in the job my shop did, too. But I didn't get "Karen-ish" about anything. The owner took me to my car and let me know what's up. One happy mistake is that after de-badging / CF Spoiler removal and applying PPF - they "rebadged" it with Black Satin painted T emblems (OEM and painted by shop). I had initially asked to leave it de-badged as I had my own custom emblems coming in. They got mine and another blue M3 mixed up a little - especially with my spoiler off at the time. But the Black Ts looked WAY better than what I had coming in so I stuck with it. They even put the front T cock-eyed about a degree or two. But being fresh PPF, they advised to wait until my 1-week checkup to get that fixed, too...and sure enough, they made it right when I came back, no issues with the wrap on the second badge removal.

Second is that they actually forgot to re-attach my spoiler and I didn't notice til I went to open the trunk on that pickup day - with the owner right next to me. I stayed cool and he was cool...and it ended up being better anyways. Definitely, he agreed to reattach it on my 1-week checkup, no problem. Also, he showed me how little the factory adhesive had actually contacted the trunk lid. There were spots on the adhesive tape where it was still like new and shiny - because it didn't even contact the original metal trunk lid. With the PPF helping make the curves a little larger in radius - along with the shop seeing where the original adhesive wasn't in contact, they added additional thicknesses here and there and on re-attachment, got much more contact/adhesion.

It bothered me to have waited 6 weeks for the car, then have it for 2 days, only to turn it over for tint/PPF for another 5 days - and to pickup the car not being fully set. But after that week and the fixes needed - everything worked out perfectly. I wouldn't hesitate bringing any other future vehicles to that same shop either. I think, too that the shop helped me out even better because I wasn't a butthole about anything. We all gotta get along and make it better.

 

[eugenege]

I received two quotes from two different installers with good reviews for MY windows tinting.
Both quoted the same tint XPEL PRIME XR+.
In the Chicago area:
On all sides and rear $699.00
On windshield 200.00

In WI area: on all sides and rear $765.00
Windshield $890.00

WI installer is closer to me, and the price difference for all sides and rear is reasonable.
But I cannot understand the price difference for windshield 200 vs 890?
I tried to negotiate the windshield price, but they answered that it's very difficult to do windshields, and they cannot make it cheaper.
I'm a bit confused with such a big price difference for windshield between the two installers (they both have good reviews on Google Maps).
Any ideas, what might be a reason for that? I'm looking for a quality installer, but it's difficult to justify 4x price difference.

 

[Evpowerdan]

I received two quotes from two different installers with good reviews for MY windows tinting.
Both quoted the same tint XPEL PRIME XR+.
In the Chicago area:
On all sides and rear $699.00
On windshield 200.00

In WI area: on all sides and rear $765.00
Windshield $890.00

WI installer is closer to me, and the price difference for all sides and rear is reasonable.
But I cannot understand the price difference for windshield 200 vs 890?
I tried to negotiate the windshield price, but they answered that it's very difficult to do windshields, and they cannot make it cheaper.
I'm a bit confused with such a big price difference for windshield between the two installers (they both have good reviews on Google Maps).
Any ideas, what might be a reason for that? I'm looking for a quality installer, but it's difficult to justify 4x price difference.

I'd take it as the WI installer may have limited exp in the Model Y windshield or that is just CRAZY pricing.

Also, IMO the Xpel PRIME XR BLACK has a very similar Total Solar Energy Rejected (TSER) is a factor that describes the total amount of solar energy (UV + visible + IR) that is rejected from passing window as the Prime XR+; and looks more blackish than the XR+ Grayish color.

 

[7BaconTacos]

I received two quotes from two different installers with good reviews for MY windows tinting.
Both quoted the same tint XPEL PRIME XR+.
In the Chicago area:
On all sides and rear $699.00
On windshield 200.00

In WI area: on all sides and rear $765.00
Windshield $890.00

WI installer is closer to me, and the price difference for all sides and rear is reasonable.
But I cannot understand the price difference for windshield 200 vs 890?
I tried to negotiate the windshield price, but they answered that it's very difficult to do windshields, and they cannot make it cheaper.
I'm a bit confused with such a big price difference for windshield between the two installers (they both have good reviews on Google Maps).
Any ideas, what might be a reason for that? I'm looking for a quality installer, but it's difficult to justify 4x price difference.

make sure they arent talking about the WHOLE windsheild. I have seen some reference they do a banner then do clear tint on the front windsheild. Im thinking they are thinking thats what you want.

If they are just talking about the 8-10 inch strip that goes on the top thats crazy price

 

[7BaconTacos]

I'd take it as the WI installer may have limited exp in the Model Y windshield or that is just CRAZY pricing.

Also, IMO the Xpel PRIME XR BLACK has a very similar Total Solar Energy Rejected (TSER) is a factor that describes the total amount of solar energy (UV + visible + IR) that is rejected from passing window as the Prime XR+; and looks more blackish than the XR+ Grayish color.

this is what I am talking about to make sure that they are on the same page as you.

Some people get the whole window done like this:

I dont think this is what you are wanting. Or if it is, then yeah i would say that big of a piece would cost a bit to do. and the other shop is only thinking you want the top area done and not the whole window.

 

[Evpowerdan]

this is what I am talking about to make sure that they are on the same page as you.

Some people get the whole window done like this:

I dont think this is what you are wanting. Or if it is, then yeah i would say that big of a piece would cost a bit to do. and the other shop is only thinking you want the top area done and not the whole window.

In Texas or FL - I prefer the ENTIRE windshield tinted, only 70%-80%, as that will reduce the Total Solar Energy Rejected (TSER) - which is heat and uv rays. IMO - No reason to go darker - as 50% or less makes it more difficult to see at night - especially on dark roads.

Tinting the whole windshield makes it a much more pleasant drive, especially on super sunny hot days. The AC does not have to work so hard to keep the cabin cool. Most shops will do that for $150-$200. The "visor" strip on top - should cost more that $50 (if that).

A lot of the heat will come from the sunroof and glass roof above the back seats. What works best is a good sunroof shade and one that has the additional insulation layer you can put on if you live in one of the oven states during the summer.

BUT - do what you feel comfortable with and can afford. Like I said before, as long as you go ceramic - there is little difference between the top of the line (Prime XR Plus) and second below (Prime XR Black) for XPEL (Similar to other tint mfg's)- than a lot more $$$.

 

[7BaconTacos]

In Texas or FL - I prefer the ENTIRE windshield tinted, only 70%-80%, as that will reduce the Total Solar Energy Rejected (TSER) - which is heat and uv rays. IMO - No reason to go darker - as 50% or less makes it more difficult to see at night - especially on dark roads.

Tinting the whole windshield makes it a much more pleasant drive, especially on super sunny hot days. The AC does not have to work so hard to keep the cabin cool. Most shops will do that for $150-$200. The "visor" strip on top - should cost more that $50 (if that).

A lot of the heat will come from the sunroof and glass roof above the back seats. What works best is a good sunroof shade and one that has the additional insulation layer you can put on if you live in one of the oven states during the summer.

BUT - do what you feel comfortable with and can afford. Like I said before, as long as you go ceramic - there is little difference between the top of the line (Prime XR Plus) and second below (Prime XR Black) for XPEL (Similar to other tint mfg's)- than a lot more $$$.

Gotcha, yeah before today I had not even thought about getting the entire windshield done so for us northern folk I think that is a foreign concept lol.

 

[Smh2210]

I'm getting my tint done for $600 for all 5 windows. That seems to be the low end for my area.

As for PPF, it depends on what film they are using and how much coverage.

I had the facing surfaces PPF, about $2,000.

 

[Tgwolfwood1981]

I am doing a full tint 4 windows + rear + windshield for $480 so take that as you will. I think pricing is very regional from the research I've done.

Is that for ceramic? I was quoted 450 for regular and $650 for ceramic.

 

[zhu-]

yeah its now evolved into "o i didn't mean the ENTIRE back glass, just that it would be one piece" which technically it is, so he isn't wrong. So I guess I asked the wrong question in the beginning if the back glass was going to be "one piece" and he said yeah. So I am going to go Monday and see if I like it or can live with it, if not its "an extra charge" for that.

I feel so stupid now....

That tint shop sounds shady. Virtually every car's rear tints are done in one piece. "One piece" on a Tesla model 3 specifically implies the entire glass because of how big it is.

You'll definitely want to tint the entire glass because the tint is a gradient so it'll be very very noticeable.

Also, you might want to tint your entire front windshield 50-70% too like others have mentioned. I had ceramic on the sides and rear (one piece) for $700, it was so much cooler I immediately noticed how hot my arms were getting from under the windshield and got that tinted 50% for $150. At 50% its barely noticeable and 70% will be even less so if you just want the heat rejection.

 

[Evpowerdan]

That tint shop sounds shady. Virtually every car's rear tints are done in one piece. "One piece" on a Tesla model 3 specifically implies the entire glass because of how big it is.

You'll definitely want to tint the entire glass because the tint is a gradient so it'll be very very noticeable.

Also, you might want to tint your entire front windshield 50-70% too like others have mentioned. I had ceramic on the sides and rear (one piece) for $700, it was so much cooler I immediately noticed how hot my arms were getting from under the windshield and got that tinted 50% for $150. At 50% its barely noticeable and 70% will be even less so if you just want the heat rejection.

Agree. Appears some due diligence is needed before getting PPF or window tinting. Any window tinted who can’t do a M3 back window in one piece, either has no experience and/or the size film to do the entire glass. Really not a biggie to break the back window/roof up into two pieces, just splice it on one of the defroster lines.

Form windshield at 70-80% is perfect, as that’s almost clear and with ceramic e tint cut 50% of the soalr energy from a clear window, major difference in keeping the interior cool.

 

[7BaconTacos]

That tint shop sounds shady. Virtually every car's rear tints are done in one piece. "One piece" on a Tesla model 3 specifically implies the entire glass because of how big it is.

You'll definitely want to tint the entire glass because the tint is a gradient so it'll be very very noticeable.

Also, you might want to tint your entire front windshield 50-70% too like others have mentioned. I had ceramic on the sides and rear (one piece) for $700, it was so much cooler I immediately noticed how hot my arms were getting from under the windshield and got that tinted 50% for $150. At 50% its barely noticeable and 70% will be even less so if you just want the heat rejection.

Not shady at all just a misunderstanding on both our parts. He is going to fix it. The quality of work on both the tint and PPF they did was great. Just this one little hiccup. No biggie, as its going to get sorted.

 

[FLUXCAP1]

That's about right. I paid about $2100 for the same service a local shop here in NC. 32% tint all the way around + PPF on complete front end and A-Pillars.