Pre Dec 2014 S Heated Steering Wheel Retrofit

[SigRed12]

@airborne spoon , the two wires you are adding are power and ground for the heated wheel. You have to source them from wherever you can find the appropriate power and grounding points. I ran the power wire through the firewall to the fuse box with a mini-fuse tap. And I found ground inside the cabin at the driver's footwell under the trim panel and carpet.

The heater ecu and wiring are part of the airbag assembly, 1036778-01-A. Find it on-line as Tesla will NOT sell this item to you directly; it is a restricted part. Transfer your airbag to the new one so you know you have the approved part. I bought a blown airbag assembly online, so I had to reuse mine. If the airbag connectors on the new assembly are different, reuse the wires and connectors in your current harness. Once you have added the two wires (power/gnd) to the car-side sccm connector (as shown on the first page), installed the sccm (1043892-00-A), bolted down the new steering wheel (1036774-00-D), reconnected and pressed on your updated heated airbag assembly; then you'll have to change the MCU's gateway configuration to set 'steeringheat' to 1. Redeploy the firmware.

 

[samppa]

What he said above.

Tesla only sells the whole airbag assembly. You could also buy that, I think it's about 900€.
Best source is to find a blown heated airbag.
I can help you with gateway config.

 

[samppa]

Can you be more specific on that part? what is the heater ECU and part number, i can't find a part number on the tesla parts catalog for that, and the exploded diagrams dont show anything useful. Maybe a pic of that part so i know what i'm looking for. I know tesla prob won't sell me much if any of these parts but i need to know what i'm looking for before i start buying crap off ebay and it ends up being the wrong part.
Also i had my airbag swapped out as part of the recall, if i buy an airbag off ebay it may be one of the unrepaired ones, if that's the case how do i remove the parts needed while maintaining my recall fixed airbag?



I am tracking the SCCM and all the other parts listed i am just confused on the adding of the wires and where they go. The first page shows adding 2 wires but doesn't show where they get connected to.

some pictures here
Lunars/tesla

 

[SigRed12]

I should have posted that link instead my full how-to.

 

[samppa]

I should have posted that link instead my full how-to.

Redeploy is not usually needed here, only need to reboot gateway. If you upgrade sccm and buttons to later versions, there is a config value for those as well.

 

[SigRed12]

Redeploy is not usually needed here, only need to reboot gateway. If you upgrade sccm and buttons to later versions, there is a config value for those as well.

I thought there was firmware in the sccm, not to mention the heater ecu, that needs to be current with the car's software version. So if he gets a used sccm or a new one from Tesla who knows what firmware is in it. I redeploy when adding any new hardware, just in case.

 

[airborne spoon]

@airborne spoon , the two wires you are adding are power and ground for the heated wheel.

The heater ecu and wiring are part of the airbag assembly, 1036778-01-A. Find it on-line as Tesla will NOT sell this item to you directly; it is a restricted part. Transfer your airbag to the new one so you know you have the approved part. I bought a blown airbag assembly online, so I had to reuse mine. If the airbag connectors on the new assembly are different, reuse the wires and connectors in your current harness. Once you have added the two wires (power/gnd) to the car-side sccm connector (as shown on the first page), installed the sccm (1043892-00-A), bolted down the new steering wheel (1036774-00-D), reconnected and pressed on your updated heated airbag assembly; then you'll have to change the MCU's gateway configuration to set 'steeringheat' to 1. Redeploy the firmware.

What he said above.

Tesla only sells the whole airbag assembly. You could also buy that, I think it's about 900€.
Best source is to find a blown heated airbag.

some pictures here
Lunars/tesla

Ok thanks, I think I've got a pretty good idea of what I need and how to install it. Been looking around ebay and there isn't much for these numbers. Kinda sucks, there are some that are close with he and number but have a different letter at the end.
Out of curiosity I will ask my SC how much any of these parts (that aren't restricted) goes for this weekend at my appt for a unrelated issue.

 

[SigRed12]

Last time I checked, the heated sccm was $220 and the heated steering wheel was $1070. No price on the heated airbag assembly because restricted part and I didn't ask, but you could and see what they say. Can't hurt to try.

As for the letter/revision difference, it may not matter. You just want to ensure they are of the heated variety. Feel free to PM me with links to the parts you are looking at. I'll let you know if it's the right part or not.

You would also want to ensure your steering wheel buttons are of the right version as well. Your year and month of vehicle may already have the right button hardware to not have to mess with it. But something to keep in mind.

 

[red_five]

I'm really struggling to find the heater ECU and wiring. I thought I had found one but when it arrived it was the wrong part number.
I thought blown airbags would be easy to find, but apparently not. If anyone knows where to get one (especially in the UK) please let me know. Euro part number is 1036779-01-A not sure what the difference is with the US part number 1036778-00-B.

 

[airborne spoon]

I have all the parts coming they should arrive on Tuesday. Installing it should be pretty smooth I think.
Only question is running the 12v power line.
Can I do it old school car stereo style and throw a line off the 12v battery w/ an inline fuse and call it good? Because fiddling around with the fuse box seems like a pain in the ass that's not necessary.

 

[samppa]

I have all the parts coming they should arrive on Tuesday. Installing it should be pretty smooth I think.
Only question is running the 12v power line.
Can I do it old school car stereo style and throw a line off the 12v battery w/ an inline fuse and call it good? Because fiddling around with the fuse box seems like a pain in the ass that's not necessary.

Yes, I would recommend to do exactly that.
12v terminal under nosecone is another option to use.
According to wiring diagrams steering wheel heater can pull up to 10A, so fuse and accordingly.

 

[red_five]

I've finally found a heater ECU and wiring. Can anyone confirm if I also need to change the steering wheel switches/thumbwheels?

 

[samppa]

I've finally found a heater ECU and wiring. Can anyone confirm if I also need to change the steering wheel switches/thumbwheels?

depends on your car age. probably at least sccm needs to be replaced

 

[red_five]

depends on your car age. probably at least sccm needs to be replaced

I have a new sccm, but don't have new switches. Car build date is June 2014.

 

[SigRed12]

@red_five, Switches will most likely need changing out. The new sccm does not support the LIN signal wire (pin 6). Easiest way to know is to look at the part numbers on your current switches. Let us know which version you have here. It's easy to pull the airbag assembly to find out, disconnect connectors, flip it over, and take a pic of the part number labels of both buttons. For safety, I suggest pulling negative battery post and disconnecting first responder loop, then waiting a couple minutes to ensure car is de-energized before pulling. In the end though, it's a personal decision.

 

[airborne spoon]

So I ran the power wire the other day and now I'm in the middle of assembling the damn thing and I think my car wiring harness is already good. Looking at the pic on page 1 vs this pic of my harness am I good?
I tried checking the red wire with an ohm meter since the batt is disconnected. The red gets nothing, the black next to it is a good ground.
Or do I just remove that red wire and insert my 12v pos wire just to be sure it's got a good 12v lead?
@TonyT or @samppa any suggestions?

 

[SigRed12]

You could check for continuity from the red wire to the fuse in the frunk or in front of the center console in the driver footwell. Depends on car’s birthdate.

 

[airborne spoon]

You could check for continuity from the red wire to the fuse in the frunk or in front of the center console in the driver footwell. Depends on car’s birthdate.

In the fuse box under the hood there is a 30A labeled as "Rear center seat heaters, washer/wiper de-ice (cold weather option)" no fuse is listed anywhere as heated wheel just the various seats. I get varying results of resistance to that one and it more often is no connection.

 

[airborne spoon]

Disregard my last, can't edit for some reason.
I get between 1.2 to 5 ohms between the red wire and the pos post on the battery. Pulling that 30A fuse has no effect on the resistance.
I dono, it seems like I should be good but I don't wanna put this *sugar* back together and it not work because It needs to use the 12v run I made. But I don't wanna pull the harness apart of I don't need to also.

 

[samppa]

So I ran the power wire the other day and now I'm in the middle of assembling the damn thing and I think my car wiring harness is already good. Looking at the pic on page 1 vs this pic of my harness am I good?
I tried checking the red wire with an ohm meter since the batt is disconnected. The red gets nothing, the black next to it is a good ground.
Or do I just remove that red wire and insert my 12v pos wire just to be sure it's got a good 12v lead?
@TonyT or @samppa any suggestions?

Why won't you just connect the battery and check you have good 12v in that pin?